alex_and_sean

Ok guys, I have three questions: 1. my horn stopped working. I replaced the relay under the dash in the fuse panel and the horn, and no dice .... Using my DVM, I get no voltage at the terminal. I have tried trouble shooting this for the last couple of weeks to no avail. Got any suggestions? 2. Similar electrical problem with turn signals .... Hazards work fine, right signal works ok, left extremely slow - solid if it is cold outside. Again, replaced relay with no improvement. Could it be a bad stalk? Any other ideas? 3. Adding a fan. I think I need to add an electrical fan to minimize over heat risk while wheeling. I searched the site and found some posts on the subject but I can't seem to find what fans people are putting in and where they got them. Any advice? Hoping that once these are done, I can move onto e-brake cable fix and then some wheeling! Thanks Sean

Cool. If no ill effects, then I will do this since from what I have read this is a weak point (one of many). I have poked around on the site and found several threads discussing this. It seem pretty straight forward. Is there a specific write up available? One thread metioned a write up but I was not able to find it. I think I need a few beers now. :cheers:

Good call Pete. You da man! :bowdown: I went back under and looked closer and they are 4 vacuum lines (red, blue, green, yellow) that connect to the 231 just below and forward of the spedo cable. Obviously I am going to have to replace this, but what am I looking for (besides having more control of my welding). Sean

Well I was welding on some new floor pans and some other associated replacement metal along the drive cavity from inside and I caught some wires on fire. After putting out the fire and cleaning my shorts, I discovered it is a 4 wire run that goes from the transfer case to the front of the truck. Is this the two send speed sensor cable? One of these days, this project will be done and we can go jeeping (I hope) assuming I don't catch something else on fire too. Cheers

I have not done anything on the CPS. Based on what I have read, I would think that I would have troubles starting/running and not a miss/hesitation if the CPS was bad. Maybe I am wrong. I have replaced nearly everything else, I suppose changing this won't be too big of a deal. :roll:

Well I am posting up again since I still have not fixed this problem. I originally posted this under "rough idle". The idle problem seems fixed but I still have a slight hesitation/miss occasionally. It only happens when the engine is warm. Here is what we have done so far: 1. New plugs 2. New plug wires 3. New fuel filter 4. New fuel injectors 5. New MAP sensor (thanks Brett) 6. New EGR valve (thanks again Brett) 7. New fuel regulator 8. New oxygen sensor 9. New fuel pump ballast resistor 10. New airfilter 11. Reworked and fixed vacuum system 12. Cleaned throttle body 13. Installed catalytic converter and new tailpipe (probably not related but some numnut cut out the converter and replaced with a piece of pipe) After all this, I still have the dang miss/hesitation under the same conditions: warm engine, moderate throttle. :headpop: :mad: What is left? What else should I try to do? At this point I am thinking it may be a sticky valve, but that is all I have left in my head. If this is what it is, I will probably live with it for awhile and actually enjoy the MJ and do some wheeling and fix it later. :eek: Thanks Sean

Thanks. I sent you a PM.

Well I thought I would post an update on what we did: 1. Installed new (rebuilt) injectors from Ford Mustang 5.0L I bought on E-bay. In the process of changing the injectors, discovered a fuel rail leak and two badly messed up injectors. Looks like we averted a fire waiting to happen. 2. Installed new fuel filter 3. Tested MAP sensor - fine 4. Tested O2 sensor - fine (but really rusted up so am going to replace before a problem comes up) 5. Fixed the vacuum system. The nitwit who owned the MJ previously had: - the vacuum line to the Dana 30 shift moter was connected to the MAP instead of the vacuum fitting on by the throttle body - the throttle body was connected to the vacuum fitting near the throttle body instead of to the MAP sensor - the vacuum motor was connected to the EGR solenoid instead of the bi-metal temperature sensor - the other connection to the bi-metal temperature sensor was not connected -- frankly I am amazed the thing ran at all Drive test - no miss/hesitation and no back firing (so far). Any other things I should worry about? Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions. Now working on leaky exhaust (corrosion), dead parking brake (corrosion), slight lift package, and reinforcing the frame with steel channels (some corrosion), rocker panels (gone from corrosion), and rock rails. I recall someone had a post with a sign that stated something to the effect of spending way too much time and money on upgrades .... we seem to have fallen into this trap but are having fun doing it.

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will follow all of them up since the miss/hesitation came back today :headpop: . What a pain in the butt. I am wondering about the TB now more since it seems to miss or have a hesitation shutter at one specific throttle position. Since I tend to baby my cars and shift early I wonder if this may be more of the problem than I thought. Have plenty of time though since this will be my son's truck and he is a few years away still and it is our father-son project. That being said, I have been driving it and using it since it is way cooler than my normal vechicle (Honda Odyssey minivan) 8) Now if I could get it to run well and if I can find someplace to do a little novice 4 wheeling I would be in great shape. :cheers:

I have not cleaned the throttle body area yet so I will take that up too. To answer Jim's question, the rough idle seems to be more pronounced once the engine is warmed up. Current plan - clean TB, test O2, test MAP, examine vacuum lines. Any other things I should try? thanks

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I have no idea when the O2 sensor was changed. I guess I will look into that and the MAP sensor and tube also. If any other ideas come up, I would appreciate them. Jeep on!

We have a 90 MJ with the 4L I6 and 5 spd MT. We had a bit of a rough idle and an occasional backfire so I did what I thought would be the simple fix: - changed all the plugs (used Bosch quad platinums) - changed plug wires (napa gold set) - changed air filter (fram airhog) - repaired crank case ventalation system leak The backfiring seems to have gone away but I still have a rough idle. Do I need to work on the distributor? Maybe the points are worn? Any suggestions? I have seen some posts about changing out the injectors too. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks

I have a 90 Comanche w/o AC but would like to put a system in. Does anyone sell a full kit (preferably a R134 kit)? Alternatively, does anyone know what the component list is that I need to get including change outs (do I need to change out the blower going from heater only to heat+AC)? Any guidance would be most appreciated. Thanks