fronix4

Thanks Wooky. It all makes sense now. Sorry about the mistake in identity. I appreciate your input. I think she will be up and runnin soon now. I got the concept now, your explanation was well taken. None the less.....like that pic man. :cheers:

Ok, so when installing a chain, don't worry about the rotor, just line up the sprocket markings, then see if the rotor is at 1 when the HB is at o? That makes some sense. I've never changed one on a chain vehicle. I'll try it. Thanks man. :cheers:

Hey fellow comancheros, I'm still workin on my 86 2.5L Comanche. I got it apart and noticed the sprocket is off by 90 degrees. Huh? Exactly. The timing mark (when rotor is at TDC compression stroke), is off by 90 degrees from where the machined sprocket mark is. If I were to line up the sprocket as illustrated in the manual and the nice illustrations on this site, the rotor would be off. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but when installing the crank sprocket, should the little dots line up if the rotor is at TDC? If I put my rotor on the 1 plug, and the time mark is at 0, then isn't it in time, reguardless of where the marks on the sprockets are?

Mine had a bad tensioner....if I line the two sprockets up like you said, should the rotor cap point at 1?

Ha! my video camera is broken, but I'll see what I can do to get a clip of the big a@# flames shooting out. It is spectacular at dusk. My friends and I gather around with beers and make little bets on when it will backfire and shoot flames. The scary time is when my friend lifted the hood right as it did it. Man, he jumped back and to the ground. Funny stuff.

Yeah, I remember those older engines, where you could just listen to the cam and adjust the timing. I am working on getting the HB puller so I can see if everything is lined up. I really hope it is off, so I will have it running again. I hope to have the hb and cover off today. The truck was so busted when I got it. I've done a lot of work to it, but it will always be a work in progress. These trucks are too good to let rust in a field and die. Thanks Eagle.

So we're looking at a timing issue for sure then? It is sure looking that way isn't it. It is not at TDC and at 1 at the same time. 10 degrees seems like a whole lot to deal with just to keep it idling. It would certainly make sense! I'm going to rent a HB puller today, and replace all gears and tensioner/chain and seals. I can't wait to get her back to life!!!!!

When the HB is at TDC (0)...Center mark on the block, the rotor is about 1cm behind the 1 position. It is not on the 1. If the 1 were a clock figure, then the 1tower on the distributer cap is at about 5, while the rotor is at about 6. Hope this helps!!!!! Doesn't that mean the timing is retarded? Thanks for any input you have, and for your help.

Well, it's a 86 comanche, 2.5 L 4 banger. I don't have a timing light. I know that the harm. bal. has a notch, the notch doesn't line up with the marks on the block, when the rotor is at tower 1. Does this help at all?

Thanks guys...I thought the same. I feel much more confident now that you have confirmed my beliefs. I guess tomorrow I begin the breakdown fun stuff and get a good look at that chain and tensioner. I'm excited!!! I've been without my jeep for a few months. I now have some time to work on her. Thanks guys.

My Jeep idles normaly, when you hit the gas, it shoots flames from the throttle body, and it misses. I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap, button, relay. It was running fine, until one day, it just suddenly started sputtering. I had to keep it floored in first gear to get her home. It acts like only two plugs are firing, but all four are sparking, just not causing the timely and proper reaction. Where would you start? I've suspected timing, but would also like to know what else you guys may think of. Thanks

Hey guys, I suspect my Timing is off, but would like to test it prior to digging into it. My Rotor is pointing at wire 1 when off, but I noticed the notch in the bell is off by about 1/3 turn from the marks on the block. Any suggestions?

Sweet Mjeff87, your posted write up is EXACTLY what I needed! Nice pics and data. Most appreciated.

Thanks Eagle and MJeff87 for the last two posts. I'm going to follow your link to the writeup. It will probably answer my last post....thanks.

Excellent info guys. Thanks to all. It makes sense that the sprocket/tensioners go bad. Don't see a chain stretching, and hard to snap with a little 2.5 L. So, if I need to inspect the chain, what would you remove first from a 2.5 L? It looks like it's past the water pump, and I haven't seen any easy access panels like on some vehicles. If I wanted to get down to the chain, where do you begin on the 2.5 L? Valve cover? I don't have a place on the block to view the timing, but have the notch on the bell. The notch is off from the arrow, so I think the tensioner or sprocket is bad. Man, please keep helping, you guys are awsome! I hope I can help you guys sometime. This site is one of the best ideas for people like us, who like to learn and grow and share knowledge. I am learning a lot from you guys. Thanks sooo much!!

On most vehicles that have a belt, I've heard that it's good to change the belt every 3 - 5 years or 80 to 100000 miles. I'm not sure about the chains. I heard that the chains usually are ok until they break, but plastic and nylon sprockets and tensioners get worn. I had a non-interferance engine in my dodge shadow, the belt broke at 80 mph. I am lucky it was a non-interferance motor, so it did no damage to the engine. My dad said he had an old buick in the 60's that had a chain that broke, and it nearly ruined the motor. He changes his timing belts/chains about every 60000 miles so he's never stranded. He is anal though. He has a 50 year old car that has 400 000+ miles on it, and never broke down. He's like Hank Hill. My Jeep has 223 000 miles, and is only on its second chain, which I suspect is what is wrong with it. I should've listened to my anal father. I guess better safe than sorry, right? I hope someone more qualified can answer this for us all. I have heard a lot, but am unsure of how valid it is. I would like to know what a auto repair specialist would have to say. I just wanted to add to your post, so maybe some mechanic will have a better answer for us.

Thanks. I figured you had to do that, just wasn't sure. That's a good idea to replace the gaskets. They leak a little anyway. Should be a fun little project!!!

Hey guys, I'm working on my 86 2.5 L Comanche. I would like to inspect the timing sprocket/chain. Can someone please tell me if you have to remove the oil pan and water pump? It certainly looks that way. Thanks.