1ton87

Looking for a used speedometer cable. Can't seem to find a new one anywhere. My MJ is a 1987 4.0l 4x4 with the AW-4 auto. Cable length is 70-80 inches and it has the large nut on the bottom to connect to the t.c. and the plastic clip to connect to the speedometer. My cluster is the two large gauges with idiot lights.

You were dead on, Eagle. I pulled the exhaust off and sure enough a 2" chunk of catalyst had broken free and was blocking things up between the cat. & muffler. Cruised right up to 85 mph with no hesitation on a test ride. Also, my rear end work did get rid of the howling she was making when decelerating. Double plus. Thank you!

The brakes were the first thing I checked, no dragging on the rears or fronts. I'm gonna try disconnecting the cat., the exhaust is getting old, probably 6 - 8 years. Won't be too surprised if it needs replaced. I'll post my findings. Thanks.

Alright guys, I'm at a loss again. I have an '87 MJ 4x4 with the 4.0l, AW4, metric ton. Everything was fine, I could easily go 80+ mph on the highway. Then one day I took an hour drive, didn't notice any problems, but when I got back in the truck to go home it would only go 65 tops (70 downhill) with my foot to the floor. I made it home, but this concerns me of course. I started tinkering with the rear end. Replaced the pinion bearings, wheel bearings and all seals, but it's no better. When I have the rear end in the air, I can spin one wheel and the other spins easily (in the opposite direction of course), but when I stop one wheel and turn the other it becomes alot more difficult to spin. What am I overlooking?

I finally did it. Started working on my rusty old metric ton. Started with the rocker panels. Ordered them from rockauto.com. Ended up having to fabricate new inner rockers to mount to, of course. The fit was decent, kind've funky where they meet the fenders though. And then I took out the seat and pulled the carpet out of my MJ & pitched it. Drivers side was extremely rotted, had to replace almost everything and go half way up on the trans tunnel, but the U-frame was still good. I capped it off and added a new seat crossmember, then laid new pan on top, so it's double thickness. Rockauto front floorpan worked great, and I just cut my own peices for the rear. The passenger side was in much better shape, but I still used most of a prefab front pan from rockauto. Patched in the rear pan, and didn't have to mess with the crossmember, just whip the rust off. The floor took me alot longer than expected, but it's finally together. Drilled out 1" holes in the lowered areas on my new floorpans and washed it out good before paint. Seems to drain great. Never realized how horrible painting inside the cab is, but I got it done. Primed, 2 coats of blue, and 2 coats of satin topcoat. Now I at least have an idea what the rest is going to look like. Yesterday I started on the outside, sanding the frame rails, door jambs, the area around the fresh air vents (wondering how those work??), and the roof. Trying to get rid of the black bedliner that the PO painted some of it with and turn her blue again. Still need to patch in the passenger cab corner, and remove some things before I'm ready for another section of painting. Hopefully the weather holds out for me. Pictures to come.

parking brake has never worked on this truck, i will check my shoe adjustment, though. thank you.

Brake question. I have an '87 MJ 4x4 4.0 AT w/ Metric Ton package. Brakes have been working great ever since my last repairs. One strange thing just started happening, though. The pedal feels soft & has extra travel but only when the truck is in reverse. Can anyone explain this to me? I would hate to back into something unintentionally.

oil level is still good after normal driving for 2 weeks. engine is mostly clean since my wash, just a little bit of oil still blowing out the filter on top of the rocker arm cover. any tricks for stopping that?

been driving her around for a few days now, no puddles yet, and haven't had to add any oil. just degreased and sprayed down the engine this afternoon. still gonna keep a close eye on the dipstick and see if the engine stays clean. but my leak seems to have stopped.

got the rms put in today, took me a little bit to get the top out, but it came all in 1 peice. used loctite 518 per advice i found in another post. gonna put the oil pan back on tomorrow. looks like my felpro 1-peice is still in good shape. and we'll see how that does me. thanks for all your tips and help.

guess mine is a lwb then. no worries, i got her fixed up. found a NOS '86 mj sending unit off of eBay, & had it sent. took a little cutting and splicing with the old unit, and had to switch out the wire harness. (apparently the '86 had an engine driven fuel pump?) but i finally got it together so that i have new send & return tubes coming off the side of my tank. installed it and turned the key - nothing. took me a while to realize that i had isolated the pump with a peice of rubber hose. pulled it out & installed a ground (duh!!!) between the lower & upper halves, back into the truck, and the pump & gauge work just fine again. no leaks, just as i like it! would have been alot easier if they still sold the '87 sending unit somewhere, but oh well

got side tracked working on the ford for a few weeks. back to the mj. oil seems to be coming out too low to be the valve cover, and the other gaskets seem dry around them on the passenger side. i am thinking i'll go ahead with the rms replacement. just a little confused on how to start. the book i have says to remove the trans. & then the flywheel, doesn't mention the oil pan at all. however, i've seen on here a couple times that it can be done via the oil pan. just wondering if someone can clarify for me. i've never done one of these before.

i am in need, my sending unit just started leaking last friday. what is the swb tank?

thanks for the tips guys. gonna try to clean it up a little today and see if my leak shows itself. starting at the top.

Hi guys, I have an '87 metric ton MJ 4x4 with the 4.0l. Replaced the engine 2 years back with one out of an '88 Cherokee. Ever since it has leaked as much or more oil than the old engine used to burn internally. Usually a quart to every 10 gallons of gas or so. Had to replace the leaky oil pan before putting it in originally, and just did the gasket again last week. Drove it around a few times with no problem, and the oil read fine on the stick last night before I went to the city and back. Thought it was all better, but this morning I went out to find a puddle of oil under her again just like before, and the oil level was low. Wondering if this could be a RMS leak? How would I be able to determine if it is or not? Also, if you have any other tips for determining where exactly the oil is leaking from, that would help out. The whole undercarriage gets coated in oil so it is hard to tell, but it mainly drips from the bellhousing area. Any insights would be greatly appreciated.