drewboy23

My wipers have barely any difference in speed from slow and high. Sometimes the high just stops on the winshield. Changed the motor for a new one and lubricated and replaced the bushings in the linkage. I also swapped in a different intermittent module with no difference. Has any ne else had this same problem? I'd also like to know if anyone knows what the voltage readings are at the motor ? I have 7 volts on one wire and 10 on another don't, know wether there are seperate feeds for the different speeds or not but i would figure i would get a tleast 12 volts from one of the hot wires when i'm switched to the fast speed. Please any help will be great. I live in a very rainy area and need help fast.

Thanks for the info! I was considering cutting an access hole also. I will see if I can just pry the spot welds loose with a small prybar, seems like a lot lees work to do. I just have to figure out how to fit all the wiring behind the driver's side kick panel between the parking break. I'm redoing the entire interior, swaped in a tilt column, A/C, bucket seats, Carpet. Will post pics when done.

Does anyone have any idea on how to remove the cage nut that the stryker bolts up to? I'm swapping in some late model cherokee doors and have to remove the stryker nut. Its impossible to get to and its in the way for a new mounting bolt? :wall:

Just figured it out last night.I have replaced with all new bulbs. Turned out to be a shorted wire for the key in sense. thanks though.

I'm having issues with my parking brake warning light. First it wouldn't turn off then I pulled the plug off the proportioning valve switch then the light went off. I know now I have a pressure balancing issue to sort out later. Now I can't get the light to turn on when the parking brake pedal is engaged. I can't seem to find any reliable wiring diagrams for the gauge cluster (Colors an basic layout don't match). The gauge cluster gets a main power feed and the warning lights (brake, 4x4, low washer, etc.) to the left should just see a ground to turn on correct? I have installed a new switch on the parking brake and made sure the pedal seperates the contacts when released. I just can't get it to turn on at all. There is a grey with red stripe wire running from the ignition switch to the parking brake switch, should that have key on power? How does that signal the light to turn on? I've done a non tilt to tilt steering colum swap with new ignition switch, are the ignition switches wired the same regardless of tilt? Please help! Any advice would be great. Its the only thing keeping me from putting my dash back together.

Thanks guys. I understand your point of view. I have notice an increase in performance above 3200 rpm the power band kicks in with more punch. I haven't calculated for better mileage yet but will in the future. I added the same spacer to my MJ and have noticed significant power gains the comanche is heavily modified, internal and external though. The cherokee has a high firepower ignition, Afe stage 2 intake, and a flowmaster super 44 muffler. I also plan on adding a catalytic converter cut out in the future. I believe that once I relieve the excess back pressure caused by the cat it will compliment and add to the spacers performance. Do you think it will still be worth it to keep it intalled in the long run, once all my mods are complete? Thanks for all your input guys.

I just installed a 1 inch trottle body spacer on my wifes 99' xj. I now have hood clearance issues between the top of throttle body and the afe intake I also have installed on it. Has anyone else ran into a problem like this. Any solutions out there?

Does anyone out have advice on the rear drive shaft of my comanchee? I have a 8.5-9'' lift with a dana 44. I do have driveshaft vibration, it aint bad but it aint good either. My question is, since we have a longer wheel base then a xj or tj do we really need a slip yoke eliminator? Should I just extend the driveshaft and keep the stock configuration of the slip yoke on the output of my Np 231 or should I upgrade to a SYE with some time of CV shaft? Will a CV style shaft work well with the longer wheel base of the comanchee? Thanks guys.

Just what I wanted to here, thats awesome. Yeah, good luck with your project. Pictures would be great. I'll keep an eye out for updated post.

Does anyone know how difficult it is to convert my mj to factory style air conditioning. I know the mechanical part of it is adding the parts required for the system. I'm concerneed about the electrical and switch panel in the dash. Will a a/c factory dash selector just plug in? Is the wiring already there just not being used? Help?? I live in vegas..

I'm also having trouble loading a jeep pic on my profile any advice?

Thanks for the pics. That is an idea I thought of though. I only have a 110 volt wire feed though. I'd have to also get it professionally welded. I'm thinking of buying the dual tube rear bumper for the wranglers and fabbing up my own adapters to mount it. Can you think of a reason why it wouldn't work?

Does anyone know where I can get a mild to heavy duty rear bumper with clevis mounts for my 88' comanche. :headpop: