pentonkid

Thank you guys for your help!

Replaced my clutch master cylinder and external clutch slave cylinder today on my 1986 Comanche with the 2.5L motor. During the bleeding process, the rubber flex line blew! Is there a fix for this, or a replacement part? Can the rubber flex line be replaced and the new one reattached to the existing metal line! Thanks in advance!! Craig Wilson

This is going to be fun!!! Thanks!

Will do. Thanks!

My 1986 2.5l Comanche, long bed, rear wheel drive, has developed some electrical issues. (1) The tail lights do not come on when the headlight switch is pulled. The headlights work properly. (2) The emergency flashers work for 2 to 3 seconds and then the fuse for them blows. Also they flash very quickly until said fuse blows. (3) Brake lights do not come on when brakes are applied. (3) Turn signal fuse blows in short order; similar to the emergency flashers. When the right turn signal is applied, the dash turn signal indicator light is dim. Also the blinkers flash faster than normal. The fuse block has no brake fluid on it from the clutch master cylinder. Could someone please inform me how to methodically check things out and correct the problem/problems?

Thanks for the input guys! Logic tells me there must be a difference between a temp sensor for a gauge and one for an idiot light but my logic may be flawed. Can a temp sensor designed for use with an idiot light still be purchased?

I have a 1986 Comanche with the 2.5 motor in it. A few years ago my temperature light began to come on sometimes and I replaced the radiator. The temp light hasn't come on since. Can someone tell me how hot the coolant had to get for the sensor to trigger the light to come on? Thanks in advance.

Okay I decided to back flush radiator, heater core and engine block AND replace the temp coolant sensor. While trying to remove the sensor it snapped like a potato chip leaving the top part in my socket ant the bottom part still threaded into the block. Wonderful! I sure could use a plan B on how/where to put another temp sensor into the cooling system. Is there a way to remove that part still stuck in the block? Do I have to remove it? Sure could use a plan B on how/where to put a temp sensor in the cooling system at another location. Thanks everyone. Woe is me. Craig

Another overheating MJ! I have a 1986 MJ with a 2.5L motor, 4 speed manual tranny, 2wd etc. Last weekend after traveling 25 miles at 60 mph and towing a trailer with 3 motocross bikes the temp light began to flicker on and off. I turned the heater on and the flickering stopped. With the heater on low the temp light stayed off the remainder of the trip. Same thing happened on return trip except temp light came on and stayed on for 30 seconds after I turned heater on, and then temp light went out. I have installed new water pump, thermostat, radiator hoses, serpentine belt, and fan clutch. There are no leaks in the cooling system and there is always the proper amount of coolant in the radiator and overflow tank when I check. This overheating doesn't happen in the winter when I am running the heater. Is my temp gauge bad? Does my radiator have a blockage? Can a temp sensor be tested? Am I overlooking something? By the way the thermostat is a 190 degree unit. Radiator is stock and I have not tried to flush it. I am puzzled by the amount of time/miles that pass by before the temp light comes on! This happens with the truck empty or loaded. If I travel at 55mph the light doesn't come on. At 60 plus it will come on after 15 to 20 miles. Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for all advice. Craig

Thanks for all the replies guys. The problem was in the negative battery cable where the wire goes into the terminal end. Lots of corrosion. Repairs were made and all is right in my Comanche world!! Craig

Does anyone else have some ideas? A flow chart approach would be great. Thanks. Craig

Sorry guys for unintentionally not giving enough information. Yes I cleaned the battery teminals and cables. My truck has the four speed manual transmission. About a year ago I had to replace the clutch master cylinder and yes it did the brake fluid deposit on my fuse box nonsense. Perhaps I am incorrectly considering the battery as the problem because of its 12.62 volts showing on my multi-meter. Thanks.

The landowner tried to jump start me but even with jumper cables hooked up to my battery I had no interior lights, headlights, horn etc.. No dash lights or anything. Thanks.

Here's what happened. I drove my truck to a friend's farm to put up a tree stand. When I got back in my truck to leave I turned the key to start up and all that happened was a click, then I lost my interior lights and nothing worked. No headlights, no horn etc.. I cleaned the battery teminals and when I got back in the truck I had interior lights. I hit the key again... there was a click and I lost my interior lights again. Had the truck towed to my house and measured 12.62 volts at the battery. Is there a step by step methodical way to figure this problem out? I sure could use some advice. Thanks in advance. Craig