77mud

Ran a new power sire to the ignition switch, cranks every time now, also stays running, Thanks for the help

The one in the fuse block there? no, only thing new is the starter it's self. i pulled the bottom off the fuse block and could not see anything that was burnt, but i disconnected the battery and the smell eventually went away, or atleast i think it did, reconected the battery and it seemed to of came back. is there a diagram some where so i can see what prong on the ignition switch is supposed to have power to start with?

I can't get it to turn over at all this afternoon. got a ground or 2 i have to relocate or something because i can't get broke loose. also i got a aroma of burnt wire smell around the main fuse panel beside the battery.... also no power anywhere to my ignition switch none of the prongs have power to it.

Okay thanks

Makes it sound more like a power distribution problem or a ground issue. I'd pull the bulkhead connector apart and clean it. I'd really look into the cables and grounds. bulkhead connector?

battery terminal looks alright. it is tight. ill check the other end tonight. I'm not sure how old the ground from the battery is thou. Looking does nothing, you have to physically remove the ground cable and thoroghly clean both contact points, I would HIGHLY recommend getting some new battery clamps as well. There are several other grounding locations to be aware of as well. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ Look for "ground refresh". The more i have come to know my MJ the more i have come to relize 90% of all the problems i have had have been ground related. By look into it i meant take them off an take a wire brush or grinding wheel to the surface an connectors. the battery clamps were recently changed maybe 2-3 months back when the new red top optima was installed.

it ran fine for 2 days thou so i don't see that being the issue. not saying some connection aren't bad but not do to the roll over

Since it does crank sometimes would that eliminate the nss? Forgot to mention. can't get my turn signals or brake lights to work either. head lights work fine thou

When you have questions like this, you need a simple reference with pictures and step by step instructions.. Thats what I was referring too. More power to ya using other methods.. i agree that steps and pics help. but never had luck with haynes manuals. didn't mean to come across as a smart @$$

It was a while ago, but I'm almost positive it was one of the small red wires next to the battery, going to the starter realy okay thanks

Ill test those tonight. What terminals are supposed to have power?

battery terminal looks alright. it is tight. ill check the other end tonight. I'm not sure how old the ground from the battery is thou.

The wire that goes over to the fuse block? or something else?

in N is no different than in park, what confuses me is that the fuel pump does not come on to build pressure when you turn it to the run position. only comes on when you turn the key over....

Okay, I took a Ignition switch off a 87 Jeep i have (engine locked up about 5 months back) put it on this the comanche, same issue. and It won't turn over everytime that you go to crank it over now, so i manually worked it with a screw driver and it still doesnt turn over but maybe once outta 10-15 times of turning it over, which makes me wonder if it is the NSS now...

Last time i bought one of those book's it was a waste of 20 buck's Ill never do that again, and yes it is a Auto, but i had a 97 that the NSS went out on and it wouldnt turn over at all, this one does turn over sometime's

Oh and the rod being bent i think is unlikely, but possible, truck was laid on it's side Saturday in a mud pit, but after getting it back on all 4's it cranked up fine several time's, then several times sunday and 2 or 3 times this morning, but i was using it to take trash to the back of the feild to be burnt since it is muddy back there and went to move it from my front step's and it at first wouldnt do anything like the battery was dead, then evetually i got it to turn over, and about every other time i tried to crank it it wouldnt do anything, but wiggling the key sometimes got it to turn over

atg the base near the floorboard were it goes threw the firewall? upon searching a couple time's looks like i need to drop the 2 15mm nut's holding the column up?

That is the Key tumbler, If I'm not mistakin, i know that on my old ford (96) it had a actuator rod that went from the key to the ignition switch

This may sound like a stupid question, but where is the Ignition switch? it is dark out side and I am quiting for tonight, but i didnt see it on the bottom of the collum did i miss it? or is it located else were? I know on the ford i had to change the ignition switch on it was mounted to the bottom of the collum...

That is what i am wondering...

No the engine actually run's I know the starter is engaged, BUT the truck is actually running, and it will rev up, I just poped the supply line off, when you turn the key to the Run position you don't get anything. no fuel until you turn the truck over. also sometime's you can turn the Key over sometime's and it won't do anything. at all, also none of the gauge's work, fuel gauge has never worked, but the temp gauge is pinned at 260, oil pressure is pinned at 20 or so, and the battery gauge never moves.

Parked the truck this morning, went to crank it to move it just a fem minute's ago, It will crank up but shut's off immediately when releasing the Key. If you hold the Key with the starter engaged it will stay running fine. I tried by passing the Ballest resistor on the driver side fender with no luck, Any idea's what could be wrong?

I need the driver side inner axle shaft for a 88 dana 30, let me know a price shipped to 28582 Stella NC Thanks

I aint researched alot, but do i need new carrier's to re gear the 30/35?? I know i did when i regeared my dana 44 in the old ford..