mccula

OK after reading http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm and following his instructions, I have measured my caster and using a protractor and a level I got 88 degrees. Looking at his chart, 87.5 degrees/2.5 deg. = 6.5 degrees of caster. So that would mean 88 degrees = 7 degrees of caster. (I have a high pinion). My truck is lifted 3.5" in the front (this is why I'm doing an alignment), and I never changed anything from before I lifted it as far as the control arms or the control arm shims. Is that OK? 7 Degrees? Or should I add/remove some shims to change it? I'm really super confused as to where it should be at and how to get it there. I just don't understand how it could still be at the right amount after lifting it that much... everyone says it should be way off when you lift. Please help, thanks!

Originally I thought I'd stay away from RC, but for the price, they seem like they offer a pretty complete and decent kit at the 4.5" and 6" levels. Anyone have any experience with them? The website shows that the 6" kit includes all the following: Front: Lifted coil springs, upper and lower adjustable control arms, transfer case drop kit, adjustable track bar, adjustable sway-bar disconnects, power steering pitman arm, brake line relocation brackets & hardware. (Rear: Basically just SOA parts) While the 4.5" kit includes the following: 4.5" Front: Lifted coil springs, lower control arms, transfer case drop kit, extended sway-bar links & hardware. Rear: Add-a-leafs, shackles & hardware. Seeing as I already have s10 springs ready to build a bastard pack, and from what I've read you generally don't use the t-case drop kit, all I could see using out of the 4.5" kit is the LCA's, swaybar links and front lift springs. The 6" really looks like a much more complete kit but it's also about $400.00 more. Anyway, let's say I went with the 6" kit. Would I really need anything else to complete that lift (doing it right) than what comes with the package? I already have extended brake lines ready to go in so they're not an issue. Are there any parts of that kit you'd say would be unnecessary? Alternatively, let's say I piece together my own kit. I'd probably shoot for 5.5-6". I'd probably get some front lift coils and if needed spacers/acos, LCA's, adj. trackbar, steering stabilizer, new shocks (probably I'd just end up with some monroe's or something from advance auto or orielly's), and some extended swaybar disco's. For the rear I'd either do SOA or the bastard pack. If I went that route, would I be missing anything? Would UCA's be necessary? Thanks in advance!

Eagle- Thank you for the info! I was going to take my truck to RPM Offroad in Bristol TN (I live in the tricities TN area) for an alignment but I may end up just taking it to a more local shop as it'll probably be a bit cheaper... I hope you're right about the tires... after I get the "pseudo-death-wobble" figured out it would be nice if a good balance fixed that 55-70ish issue. I just didn't think that would be it because like I said, I rotated them and didn't notice any change at all. Thanks again!

Well I wouldn't know what else to call it... it stops when I slow a little, but I don't need to come to a complete stop. I'm talking 30 seconds or so of VIOLENT shaking. The tires might be out of balance, although it's helpful to know that I have rotated them actually before lifting it, which didn't stop the slight shimmy... so that would mean all 4 or at least 2/4 would have to be out of balance... And as far as my idea "lifted specs", I've been doing a lot of reading in the last week or two and seem to come across statements like this a lot: (from http://www.kevinsoff...eathwobble.html) "If you have a lifted vehicle, make sure that the alignment shop you choose knows the variant specifications for lifted vehicles, and that they do NOT set it to the "default/stock" settings. A good quality alignment shop familiar with 4x4 vehicles will know these settings, and a poor quality shop will likely tell you that it doesn't matter whether it's lifted or not...they still use the same specs. Hang up the phone and call the next shop, if so."

Thanks for the help mountainman. Is there any way I can get away without an adj. trackbar for right now? I know I can relocate it... just have to redrill it to the right AFAIK. How should I go about checking over the front end? Jack it up, put it on stands? Wheels off? What should I look for/do? Can I do a basic alignment myself first before I get it in to a shop? How should I go about that? Thanks so much. Sorry to ask so many questions.. but you gotta learn somewhere right?

PS- sorry for writing a novel as my first post! Haha.

Hi everyone, let me introduce myself. My name is Jon, I am the proud owner of an 88 Manche. She's a 4.0l with a poopgo 5 speed trans. Currently, I have it lifted 3.5" in the front with v8 zj springs and homemade lift spacers. In the back I have a pair of chevvy drop shackles, and I'm waiting to possibly do an s10 bastard pack (have the s10 leaves and all the parts, just haven't gotten to it.) I'm new to jeeps, but I've worked on cars for quite awhile, including VW's and muscle cars (70 dart 340 4 spd, and a 69 cuda also 340 4 spd.). When I got the manche, everything was pretty good except a slight vibe at around 55-70mph (not death wobble) and hard shudders when braking at highway speeds. I changed the front rotors and pads and that took care of the vibes from braking. When I put in the zj springs and lift spacers, I test drove it a few times. Everything felt alright until I got on the highway. At highway speeds I now get death wobble. I don't know what sets it off, I'll be driving and then all the sudden it will shake VIOLENTLY for 30-40 seconds and then stop. I'd really rather not go through and just haphazardly replace front end parts without knowing what the problem is... Right now, everything is stock besides the parts listed above. The front axle did shift towards the drivers side, I guess because I am on the factory track bar. I haven't gotten it aligned yet because I'm scared I'll take it to a shop that will put it at factory (not lifted) specs or not do the alignment right. Looking under the front, there are no areas of visible shiny metal that would indicate anything moving or anything like that. The lower control arm bushings look a little beat, I know my tranny mount is pretty beat, not too sure about the track bar/bushings or any of the other front end bushings. When you grab the tie rod and twist it, it does twist and kinda 'clunk.' When steering while moving slow, you can hear some clunks, too (it always did that since I bought it stock though). Not too sure about the TRE's or the UCA's or their bushings. Anyway, I don't want to replace any parts with stock because I am seriously considering a higher lift (probably 5-6"). So, any ideas on what to check for right now until I get a lift? If I do need to replace parts, what company offers the most complete lift set up? Or would it be better to piece a kit together? I was looking at rough country's kits, and also rocky road outfitters too. I have already bought tj front soft lines, and the rear line has been extended because when doing the shackles, I broke one of the hardlines, so I just extended the hard line about 2-3" in the rear. I know I'd need new shocks, springs, probably adjustable LCAs, probably a track bar, extended swaybar discos, hardware for a rear SOA... anything else? Should I look into getting some sort of front-end rebuild kit (like all bushings, etc) from somewhere like summit or something like that? EDIT: I know people will say to re-gear/swap front and rear diffs/trans eventually. I'm not worried about all that yet... maybe later, but not now. This jeep is my daily, and until that changes I don't want to build it TOO heavily. I'm fine with going a little slower because of the crappy gear ratio and all. I think she's on 31's right now and I have no problem running 31's or 32's. Thanks in advance. Appreciate your time. -Jon