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In general if there is a logical method that I should start with to attack this thing, then I am open to suggestions. I can get fuel. I assumed spark was supplied by the crank position sensor but if that's not the case and I need to dive into spark then I'm game for adjusting my previous thinking. Cruiser, I know your site has a lot of tips. Do you have some other specifics that you think will help? Obviously I need spark.

I'll answer both of these together. I have not tested for spark. Primarily because my simplistic mind says that unless the cps (which is not plugged in) is giving out a .5V reading then everything else is secondary because it will not run without .5V generated by the cps/flywheel. Until this problem is resolved solving other issues will make no difference in starting the truck. If I am misunderstanding that please let me know. Now....that being said....before I got stumped by these cps, I had started cleaning and adding grounds. I have replaced both battery cables as well. I did also clean out the c101 connector. I got all of that gunk out of it. For clarity, I drilled out both sides of one of my sensors (the at least 12 year siemens sensor that came from autozone) I have 2 new sensors that I have not drilled (one NTK that I bought on Amazon and one Napa). Besides that I know I have some other issues with wiring because I have to jump the fuel pump relay to get it to fire. But when jumped the fuel pump pumps and primes the rail. I was going to start digging further into the wiring after I got this cps issue resolved. I do appreciate everyone's time and help.

Thank you very much for the suggestion. I hadn't considered these items causing issues probably because they seem to be doing the job. The battery is brand new Interstate battery 3/2022. The starter looks rough but the engine seems to turn over very well. It does not seem weak or slow. I feel pretty good about the performance of both of these items. Thanks, Ron

Thanks for the suggestion. The Siemens is the one that I drilled out to allow it to sit closer to the flywheel. Best I can get out of it is .2V.

Looking for some direction here. 1988 4.0 2wd Auto Comanche. The truck sat up for about 10 years. Trying to get it running again. I replaced the fuel tank and sending unit due to ethanol fuel. I've moved on to spark and have read through cruiser's tips. I have 3 CPSs. One that I had in the truck before (an old Autozone unit made by Siemens) and 2 new ones. One is a NTK and one is a Napa. I have drilled out the old autozone one with a 3/8 drill bit and I can get .2 volts AC (it was .1v prior to drilling). I either get 0v or .1v on both of the new ones. I have removed the transmission and cleaned the flywheel but there is no change. I'm just at a loss. Cruisers tips seem to discuss people dealing with .2-.35 readings while I have much less. I don't really want to drill out the new sensors because I assume they will only net me a .2. I've been working on this thing in my free time for 2 weeks and I'm stuck here until I can get a cps that works. Are these new ones defective? Do I need to buy more? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Ron 1988 4.0 2wd Auto Comanche

I've replaced the exhaust already so I don't think that's it. I guess it could be a control arm bushing. It feels like its right under the floor. My track bar is good. Thanks for the help. Ron

I've got an 88 auto that makes a lot of noise when I go over bumps. It feels like something is banging on the floor. I was wondering if it might be the tranny mount. I haven't looked yet. Just wondering if there was something else to look for. Mine is 2wd. Thanks, Ron

Where has anyone one found a replacement fuel pump for their comanche? The ones in the parts store are different than the original and doesn't fit in the "holster". Am I supposed to just get rid of them and change over to the new ones? (the black rubber pieces) Thanks, Ron

My exhaust is pretty rotten, so I'm looking for a little upgrade. I'll be replacing my exhaust starting with the catalytic converter. Everything on the Jeep right now is OEM from 1988. I'm not looking for the "meanest" sounding muffler but I could stand a little more rumble. I don't want to sacrifice power for economy or vice versa. I want a good medium. Looking for suggestions on a muffler. Thanks, Ron The Jeep has a 4.0L motor.

Yes I checked the fitting before the valve cover swap and it was clean. But I swapped it out with the 99 style fitting that is a little larger. I don't think either of the towers were bent. I could take a photo of mine if you like. But I do know that the new cover doesn't have those towers and I think that's why I was getting oil in my filter. Ron

I finally got all of the oil leaks fixed and the valve cover is helping a lot. NO MORE OIL IN MY AIR FILTER Thanks, Ron

I got all of the oil leaks fixed. Everything underneath the Jeep is clean and dry. It was the valve cover leaking. Since I did the 99 cover swap, I first tried to use the $40 valve cover gasket from the 88. That did not work. So then I bought the $30 valve cover gasket for the 99 and installed it with the new bolt grommits that came with the gasket (those were cheap and flimsy). And I didn't do a good job of wiping the surfaces off when I installed the new gasket. So I had 2 issues oil leaking around the gasket and oil leaking out of the grommits because the head of the bolt went through the grommit. In the end I took the valve cover back off and cleaned the surfaces reinstalled the OEM grommits and installed the valve cover and torqued it down to the spec 55in lbs. Last night I cleaned everything off to see if I noticed any oil leaks today. :cheers: NO LEAKS!!! So in the process, I installed a new CCV system with a 99 valve cover on a Renix engine.

The truck does not appear to be burning oil though.....just leaking. There is no smoke whatsoever coming from the tailpipe (even at WOT). Thanks, Ron