JesseFourOh

I have to go with adapters because my TJ has full size Ford axles -- so I have the 5x5.5" bolt patern. Good to know on the spring rates. I am actually surprised that an MJ is that much heavier in the back. I am looking at a few options -- One possibility is coil springs in the back and a triangulated 4-link. I haven't taken apart the BDS XJ springs yet, but will look at them this weekend. Not sure if this is doable, but I was also thinking of using an XJ spring(propbably close to stock), and doing SOA. I know the XJ springs are shorter ear to ear, but I thought this may work if I move th mounts-- I just have to figure out what spring to get that would net ~3-4" of lift with the SOA. As for the front, I may just runs some modifed JK comtrol arms -- they are bent to clear tires, and are very easy to make work on a TJ/XJ/MJ. My brother put some on his TJ for a 1.5" stretch in the front, and I have a jig to make them the right length. I have a line on some 4" XJ springs and they will proably be free. Not sure on the brand. I will definitely post pics as I progress. The end goal is to put 35s underneath it and keep it as low as possible. I am not affraid to cut, though I will not cut up MJ specific stuff(except for my the box which is not that great to begin with). Aside from the suspension, I just picked up 1997-2001 XJ doors, front fenders, header panel, and grill today.

The goal is to run 35's -- and if you go back and read what I said, you will see I said she is going to run 33's on 3" for the first year, and when it comes time to go up to 35's if I need to lift more, I will. My post says exactly that. I don't really care how much your parts cost. That 2001 XJ(that I already said I had in my second post) -- it was purchased for $500. The axles, TC, suspension bits, seats, carpet, and one good door were sold for ~$800. We still have the engine/trans, both computers, harnesses, dash, column, center console and interior harness. So far on this build, I am $300 AHEAD. The 8.8 cost me $150, I think(I picked it up a few years ago), so I am still $150 AHEAD. And instead of buying 4 steel wheels at $70/ea. and 4 33's at $235/ea., I will use the 33" MTRs I have for my TJ when I need to run thru emissions -- I will buy $125 adapters for the bigger bolt pattern. Still $25 AHEAD. And please explain why I need 10" wide wheels... I still need a lift, seats, and I need consumables. I will be making my own CA's, bumpers, and tube flares(if she decides she even wants flares). If you want to talk about my $2000 budget, it looks like I have $2025 left to spend. Sorry you are spending so much on your stuff. That doesn't mean I have too(or anyone else for that matter). As far as cutting is concerned -- are you serious? The box on our truck was hit in the pass. side rear, and has a bunch of bondo in it, so what does it matter? After all, the box is really the only thing that is MJ specific that would be cut. Maybe you should find out the background of our vehicle before making unfouded statements about "Guys like me". "We" are not the problem. The problem is that people are lazy and don't want to put in anythe time/effort for a 25 year old pick-up truck. I found 4 solid MJs in 2 days -- none of them were cut up, and none of them were $6,000. It's silly that I came to a Comanche specific forum ask what 3" lift will keep me close to stock ride quality on a Comanche, and I get you telling me you are "not a lift guy", and can't help me with that, then proceed to tell me that I can't do what I have done before within a certain budget. Thanks to everyone else who replied. I just picked up 2 BDS 4.5" XJ lift springs for $50. I'll make some leaf combo work. I am going ot see how stiff they end up being before I get something for the front.

I am not sure if I understand, why does it matter who it is for, and how did I mislead you? I am the one building it, and I know what she wants, I asked what springs would provied a near stock ride at ~3" of lift... And if you are inferring that since I want to do this on the cheap that I am a “Hack” that is cobbling stuff together, you are mistaken. Not that it matters, but I make more than enough money to buy the “best” of everything for this rig – but there is zero reason to spend thousands of dollars on fancy new stuff when I have fab abilities, and when used stuff works just fine -- sometimes JY parts work better too. I have the engine/trans and harness for the swap, and the cost is nowhere close to what you have in yours -- actually less than half of what you have into your axle. Thanks for the info -- I tried to search this site a bit, but I keep getting results that have nothing to do with my search criteria. I did have a S-10 bastard pack in one of my XJs, but didn't know if it would be different in the MJ. The Jeep is going to be used probably 10%/90%, on-road/offroading(rocks, Moab type stuff). Regardless of what it is used for, it needs to be good on the street because she wants it to br good on the street. If I have to spend a bit more money to get it that way that is fine – but I don't believe I do. Good on the trail does not mean you must sacrifice street drivability or vice versa, nor does it mean expensive – at least not in my experience. P.S. If you were breaking shocks from droop, they were either too short, or needed to be limited with straps. It has nothing to do with wanting a nice ride. Anyways, thanks for any info.

Assuming it is the same as an XJ, the tires hit the front and the backs of the fender openings/flares, as well as the CAs if you have too much BS on the wheels. This happens with 33s on 3" of lift. With 35s you need to trim more.

I am not affraid to cut the fenders -- I know I am going ot have to do that. The reason I am going with ~3" is becasue she is starting with 33x10.5s on D30 and Ford 8.8 that I have in the garage. The 35s won't come until a year down the road -- if I have to lit more, I can.. And even then the goal is to keep it as low as possible, and the only way to do that is cut. And I can't see putting $6-7k into it. I have that into my TJ on 37s, long arms, locked FS axles, a 6.5" stretch, full Genright armor, and a Warn winch. I can fab most of my own stuff, and based on what I ad done with my XJs and my TJ, I think I can do this for a couple grand. I have access to axles, etc. when I am ready. My brother and I have a stockpile of Ford HP front 44s and 60s, a few Corp. 14 bolts, and a bunch of 8.8s and 9s. As for the interior, and the motor/trans, I have all of that stuff already from a rolled 2001. I just need the front clip. At thsi point I am just looking for info on bout 3" of lift with decent ride quality, and preferably junkyard parts. I thought I read that some year Dakota front springs will net 3" -- does that sound right, and would it be really stiff?

Hey All, New here, just picked up a 1987 short box for my better half, and she has big ideas for it. The truck is really solid, has some dents/dings, but no rust. I am going to put a late model XJ front clip on it, as well as the dash and center console from the same vehicle, and Mastercraft suspension seats. I am pulling the anemic 4cyl/4spd, and going with a 4.0/aw4 combo. Haven't decided on axles yet, but she wants to run 35s. What I am looking for right now is advice on springs -- I had 3 XJs over the years, but it has been a while, and I have a TJ I have had for the last 7 years so I am a little rusty with the leaf spring stuff. I want about 3" of lift, and I want to keep stock(or as close to as possible) ride quality. I also want springs that are soft enough in the rear that they will still flex nice. What would you recommend? I see Rusty's has a 3" kit with front springs, add-a-leafs, and shocks for $265. That seems REALLY cheap -- is it any good? I just don't know -- I usually stay away from Rusty's... If anyone has any suggestions let me know. And I would actually prefer junkyard parts -- what are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.