teamsmith

It was my front wheel bearings and I believe it was drivers side but I replaced them at the same time. I didn't feel any play or movement in them but sound went away after replacement. It was really hard to locate the sound, even with someone in the sticking their head over the side.

Your TPS is likely bad and/or has a poor ground. Do Tip 5 at www.cruiser54.com and report back. So this is what I get for relying on my memory for the protocol of the tests. I put my multimeter on A & B of the TPS connector and got 0.3 ohms. I just re-read your tip and it said to touch the negative battery terminal. I'll go back and re do it. I've driven the truck about 10 more time since I posted this (amazing what a working A/C will do for driveability) and the problem hasn't cropped back up. I will still perform the check and report back.

Thanks for the replies. I guess my next step will be to go through all of the grounds and re-check them. It's only happened about 5 times out 30 or so starts. I haven't been driving it often that those 30 starts are maybe stretched out of 6 months.

This has happened 3 time so far. I go to start up truck, hold the clutch in, don't touch the gas, and turn the key. Truck starts right up but stays at high idle (2500rpm) and doesn't come down. I turn the truck off, let it sit, start it again. Same thing. On 3rd restart it settles down and behaves. I looked at the throttle linkage which looks fine (and shouldn't be in place anyway since I'm not touching the gas pedal). Would it be something int the throttle body? One of the sensors? Thanks for any help. So far it's not a huge deal since it settles down after a minute.

That was my take as well, unless there is some kind of device required (of which I am unaware) that somehow maintains it during install. Yours and Kudo's responses are what I needed for my quick sanity check. I'll wait until I'm just about to do the install before opening up the plugs. Thanks guys!

so I finally got around to ordering a new filter drier and will be ready to do the install in the next week. One thing I noticed is that there is a charge on the filter /drier. I assume it's ok that I lose this charge when I do the install because I don't see any other way to connect to the lines without first removing the caps. I'm bumping my question regarding the filter/drier coming with a charge on it and whether it is ok for it just to release. I will be installing this weekend and there is nothing in Chilton's regarding this particular task.

so I finally got around to ordering a new filter drier and will be ready to do the install in the next week. One thing I noticed is that there is a charge on the filter /drier. I assume it's ok that I lose this charge when I do the install because I don't see any other way to connect to the lines without first removing the caps.

A Awesome. Thanks for all the advice. This is very helpful. So I should go ahead and order a new drier but hold off on getting a new expansion valve until I get the old one off and blow it out? What are the chances the expansion valve just needs to be blown out? I am tempted to just go ahead and get a new valve so I could make sure I could do all this in one day. Thoughts?

Thanks. I followed the chiltons instruction guide to the letter on evacuating and pulling a vacuum, leak tested (no leaks), then charged with 38oz per Chiltons. On the evap core, I don't think it's leaking because it held a ~ 30 hg vacuum for nearly 10 minutes. If it was clogged, would I see what I'm seeing now? no low side pressure, normal high side, and the compressor will not cycle off? When I did my engine swap, I had the condensor removed from the truck for a couple weekends. the lines definitely could have become contaminated. I really hope I don't have to replace the evap core. I hope to spend some time with it this evening to see if I can feel where the lines are hot vs. cold.

I've been doing some more reading and have found that symptoms of a plugged expansion valve is a very high high side pressure (250+psi) but that is not my experience. Could it still be the expansion valve even though I'm not seeing high pressure? I'm reading alot of talk about a bad evap core and how much of a hassle that is to replace. What are the symptoms of a bad core? I feel pretty comfortable using the rental gauges and vacuum pump from AZ; are you saying they are not as accurate? At the end of the day, I do not want to spend alot of money here. I would rather poke around it on myself than pay a shop.

That is what I figured but I know you can isolate the compressor and replace it without releasing the gasses. I hate that I just spent ~$50 on r134 but it isn't the end of the world. I still haven't had a chance to take another look at it but I am willing to bet it's a clogged expansion valve that will need to be replaced.

Ok ill check it out. Funny that I never noticed a Schrader valve on the lines, even when I pulled the engine out. If I have no pressure on the low side, how would I tell if the valve is working? I do recall that the evap canister was sweating but I never put my hand on it to feel of it was cold. If it's a bad expansion valve, any chance I can swap out without having to evacuate refrigerant? Is it possible to replace

Where is there a schrader valve? I'm using the service ports on top of the compressor which are controlled by turning the stems. One thing I did not try, but plan to do later, is to let it run and see if can feel the lines. If the lines are cold up to a certain point or junction, I can assume there is a blockage.

Hey guys, '89 4.0 converted to 134A by previous owner. My AC was working but the compressor would run constantly. After reading various forums, I decided I had a bad low pressure switch, the little two prong thing that sits atop the accumulator. I bought a new one but, when I went to replace it, all the refrigerant came out behind it (I thought I understood that there was a valve that kept the refrigerant in the accumulator, guess this one is faulty or stuck open). After that the engine blew so we swapped with new engine and, during removal, disconnected hard lines and removed condensor, potentially exposing lines to contamination while we figured out how to get the new engine installed. Fast forward: Using vacuum pump and gauges, we pulled a vacuum and leak tested (no leaks) and commenced to recharging. I ended up putting the full 38oz in the system per Chiltons. Result: High side pressure: 150 psi @ 85 degrees ambient (chilton's says 120-180 @ 70 degrees ambient so I'm calling this 'normal') Low side pressure: 0 psi (it went into slight vaccuum when I closed the gauge valve). Vent temp: HOT - no noticeable cooling at all Compressor: runs constantly. Only stops running if I pull the plug from the low pressure switch. Sight Gauge: Can't see anything going on. Used to see some bubbles but maybe that was because there used to be water and now I've got it cleaned out. Thoughts? Could it be a stuck expansion valve? Is there anything that I can hit with a hammer that might loosen up?

Thanks! I just sent you a PM. Also, although moparoverstock (and other sites) show them as for sale, they have long been discontinued and are no longer available. I talked to HESCO and they said they source their sleeves from junkyards for their rebuilds.