toid

To avoid churching up the thread too much: http://www.amazon.com/Number-Scripture-Publisher-Kregel-Classics/dp/B004UHU0IQ/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1397164641&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=number+in+sipture This is the book on my shelf that I reference. More of a topical examination of patterns than exhortation. My wife is really studied in stuff like this as she really gets into typology and patterns in the OT. http://www.biblestudy.org/bibleref/meaning-of-numbers-in-bible/1.html above is a link to another source... to give you an idea. disclaimer: I do not elevate such subjective material to the level of sound biblical doctrines and the authority of the divinely inspired scriptures. Rev. Toid

I'm sure there is some ingrained metaphysical significance to that number. Should work fine. In biblical numerology 5 is the signifier of grace and 4 is creative miracles. Grace carrying creative miracles. Sorry... bible nerd, I guess. Still haven't checked the cps but the problem cleared up with a little driving.

Ok. how about bohdisattva? Cruiser the Enlightened.

I honestly have never seen a failure in seat foam barring extreme cases of exposure, (prolonged UV, solvent saturation, etc) Well, except, I did have 2 jobs... heavier gentlemen brought me seats that were experiencing some foam compression. One went to a junkyard and got a compatible unit is good shape that I recovered... I shutter to think what the stealership would charge for replacement. The other case was kind of different. He didn't want to spend any real money, so I pulled up the foam, put a large old wool blanket folded to fit, & that "lifted" the foam. More'n one way to skin a cat. maybe that will help.

If it was me... and no upholstery supply was available, I'd go to a junkyard and find an older vehicle with large bench seat... maybe a full size pickup. Harvest some good foam. Point being, "cheap" (For lack of a better word) foam WILL disappoint you as soon as you ride on it for more than a minute. Trust me.

That made little sense. If u replace foam, decide if you're doing the whole piece or just part. Cut out the bad piece and glue in the new piece the shape it and recover or use the old piece as a visual to shape the whole new piece. Doesn't have to be perfect as the seat cover will shape the Foam to a certain degree

Automotive foam is pretty unique. Not that you can't substitute but if you're long term in the vehicle, do it right. Firstly: i havent been under a comanche bench seat, only buckets, so i don't know how its made. A lot of benches have metal strapping or wires supporting the foam... to make long into short, pull your seat to make sure its foam and not whatever supports the foam failing. If it is indeed the foam, You will either need to either visit an upholsterer or an upholstery supply house and get the good dense foam for seats. at that point you would get a long thin blade to shape the foam and put your seat cover back on. you can do the whole piece or cut out just the part u sit on put the new Foam in and just do that small piece. I do it manually but some people have good luck with an electric carving knife

I forgot to update this thread... How it worked out: I wish I'd taken pictures. The plastic "post" through which the wires pass through the metal plate of the sending unit was kind of torn up where the old "push nut" had previously dug into it to hold the O-ring on the outside tight. The new push nut wasn't grabbing adequately because of the chewed up plastic... failing to hold the O-ring tightly thus the leak. Simple solution. new O ring, a tiny sheen of vaseline to make sure it's supple and seated well, then put 2 washers that were kind of snug on the plastic post then the push ring. This provided a "spacer" effect & allowed the push nut to bite into un-chewed part of the post. A c-clamp and a socket slightly larger than the post compressed it tightly. No leak. Thanks Guys. Bless y'all. Rev. Toid

Yes sir, Cruiser... You speak wisdom.

Good to hear from you maharaja Cruiser - Of the "master list" I have knocked off 1,3,4,5, 7 (tested, but did not overdrill the holes, Sunday night when I replaced the CPS), 8 but I do not feel really good about it, I need to study up the procedure and do it again, 11, and had my local mechanic check out my EGR valve (number 21) he said it was OK.

I hate auto correct.

I hate to b the one to mention it... but checked the various ground points for the sensors. Almost sounds like u got multiple issues. Done any repairs or maintenance lately?

I an borderline neurotic about dirty hands. I love to mechanic but hate grease. A troubling dichotomy but I live with it. Cranked but not fired. It now fires n runs after the caps replacement.

I'm mainly doing it for a showcase. Just opened a pickup oriented upholstery shop. Doing a few custom audio jobs. I did installs for 15+ years but never did a tunnel or walkthrough. I figured it would be a great piece to display my mad skills at tunnels.. assuming I can do develop them. Humbly, I'm really good at what I do and have a considerable reputation. I just never did a job like this. If I'm going to do it I'm going to want it done perfectly.

Thinking about tunneling my '90. One of those few things i have never done and haven't studied much on. anybody done one? Anybody seen one done on an MJ? My first MJ... Does the unibody construction mean that the bed-to-cab connection does not "flex" like "standard" pick-up trucks do? If this is the case, the selection of boot material to weather-proof the "tunnel" need not be so particular. Also, would appropriate construction, anchoring, and generous application of truck bed liner preclude having to use a toneau cover? Just fishing for advice. Thanks Rev. Toid

Aggravating as a baby monkey on crack for the first 45 mins. I did not have 3' worth of extensions to work with. Had me wanting to cuss. Once I got the bright idea of using the socket swivel (universal joint), the remaining 10 minutes had me wanting to cuss about not figuring out to use the swivel before then. Rev. Toid

when you say "repadded" to what are you referring? i.e. replacing the seat foam under the cover?.. replacing the padding between the seat cover material and the seat foam? Are you missing foam from having a torn and neglected seat cover? OR is your foam cushion intact but just "worn out"? I'm an upholsterer and have seen many many different scenarios that could apply depending on your particular situation. Rev. Toid

I have been having an erratic idle. It got better after some great advice I git here... not "fixed" but tolerable. I had a VC gasket leaking so I decided to replace it... which meant cleaning out under the VC. (ewwwwwwww - greasy) Got through, wouldn't crank. turned over fine. Had pressure on the rail, but no fire. A little over 130K miles, prime suspect was CPS. The prevailing opinion is that they last about 120-130K miles so I replaced it after church tonight. Pain in the backside, but I am "blessed" with small hands so I got it done finally. all that for background: NOW, I have a hesitation (maybe call it a bog) under throttle. More noticable when revving in Park, but also noticable when driving. Wasn't doing this before. Any Ideas? I intend to check for any vacuum lines I offfended while working, but it's all I got, so I brought my troubles here to the experts. I ran through a couple dozen posts searching for something within the parameters of my recent troubles, but do dice. Thanks guys, Rev. Toid

Yeah, brother... me too. This little fix-er-up-er is beginning to take a lot more fixing and "up" is looking farther away. this is why I LOVE these forums. the wealth of knowledge and honest "brotherly" (if I may use the word) fellowship is beyond assignation of value. WHO ELSE is really willing to help others like folks here are? Not much anymore. No sermons, though... Thanks

You are THE MAN '88! (though not to minimize the assistance of the others) Fo Shizzle... We essentially did the same thing in that post except using a hammer to gently but firmly tap the push nut on instead of using the C clamp... Ahhh the C clamp!!! I didn't think about that. I was CRYING when all that "Arab college fund" was pouring out all over the pavement... but I will try yet another fresh "push nut" and the clamp this time before I jump to the 2K sealant route. If that doesn't hold it, I will go to the WaterWeld and pray. Thanks!!! Bay the Peace of the Lord be all up on y'all like a fat baby on a pork chop sammich! Rev. Toid

Before the pump was replaced I did not hear any "hiss" of air when I took the cap off

this leaking debacle only developed in the last few hours of the afternoon, so I don't know about the venting.

Well it looks like I will give the WaterWeld a try. Any suggestions on how to use it? The bead on top and the "glop" underneath - method?

I have never found a product that worked in fuel tanks, but I have heard of others who have... always in hushed whispers and suspect to doubt.

that is exactly the spot. The mechanic and I disassembled it, found an almost remarkable LACK of rust nor other signs of age in the area. It did not leak prior to the Fuel pump replacement, but the connector was loose upon reassembly.