Phoenix of Fury

Good informative thread. I've heard that Co2 is bad for tires though, is there any truth to this?

I'm surprised he didn't do this, he did on my roommates XJ. The XJ is only attached to the frame in two places though, and mine in three. The front and rear attachment points are the control arm mount and spring mount, respectively. He's got a Comanche on 38's, so I trust him. The tires do rub in the front. They don't during normal turning, but if I take a corner too fast and the body rolls, they do. I am planning on raising the fenders and trimming in the near future to correct this. The lift seems a bit 'small' for the tires, but I really like the aggressive look. I've had the truck up to 65 on the highway (without the corrected speedo, so probably closer to 70-75) with absolutely no death wobble whatsoever. I actually had a little incident when I was running the lift / stock tires / stock steering, but nothing so to speak of with this setup. It's really beefy. I've got a roommate with an 8" Longarm lift on an XJ with 33's, and one with a 4.5 inch lift on a ZJ with 33's. They both have an older version of the same steering kit, and have never experienced death wobble with it. I've got it at the shop right now for alignment / emissions, but I will grab some pictures when I get it back. Anyone interested in the steering, the place I got it from was Phat Jeeps. I live in Colorado, so luckily I was able to drop my Jeep off and have him perform the work. However, I highly recommend this setup to anyone.

Got the truck back on Saturday from having the steering / rock rails built. A full on view of the truck: Pictures of the custom rock rails. He sprayed some overspray on my truck when he painted it :mad: Its braced to the frame in three locations. And the new steering / track bar. Its huge. Heim joints all around. Its almost too pretty to wheel...almost. I also replaced the spark plugs and wires. That plug behind the A/C compressor is pretty tough to get to. At this point, I think it's ready to go wheeling. I'm not sure what my next big project will be. I may save up for bumpers front and rear, or just front and a winch, or an SYE. I'm pleasantly surprised by how the 2.5L handles the 33's. I essentially have a 4 speed now, but it's not too shabby at all. Yes, the tires rub in the front. On Sunday I did some cheap easy trimming, just to drive it around town. I am getting an alignment this week. When I have have time, I will be moving the flares up to the body line, and cutting the front straight under the headlight like most people do. I haven't decided what I'll be doing with the rears yet.

I'm not sure what the tint is. I think the picture makes it look darker than it is, it doesn't seem quite as dark as limo tint. But MiNi Beast is right, I know people here who have limo tint and have never gotten a ticket. I think with SOA you'll be fine with the same tires. I am going to trim slightly eventually, but I want to get it back with the tires, and only hack what I need to. I will probably trim the forward fender straight off under the headlight, as many others have done. I will also probably cut the bed, from the rear fender to the bumper, on that body line.

Thanks for the backup about the shocks. I was basically going for a mid-range type shock. My one roommate has some cheap Rusty shocks, the other has the $90 a piece Ranchos. Personally, I don't see the difference. New front shock with a JKS Bar Pin Eliminator: So I got my new meats today. 33x12.50 MTZs. Mounted on 15x8 4 inch BS Crager Soft 8s. Even though I don't have my steering yet, I couldn't help but testing fitting them on the truck! My alignment is off due to stock steering. It's pretty obvious with the larger tires... Front tire looks pretty well centered in the wheel well. The rear however, looks pretty far forward. I don't think I could've put the springs on backwards...Big eye forward, I don't think they fit the other way. Unfortunately, as fun as it was, I had to take the tires back off. They rub when I turn, I believe they're rubbing at the front of the front fenders. Also, I don't want them to go all crazy on me when I take it to have the steering done.

Got the shocks and installed them today. Bought 4 Procomp ES9000. The fronts are 28" extended, the rears are 24.5". Compressed, they fit within my measurements with stock tires, so they should be fine once I get the new meats. The part numbers are EXP 926515 and EXP 924509 from 4 Wheel Parts. I also bought some bar pin eliminators for the front, as I don't want the bar pin hassle. I did not get boots with my shocks. I have heard horror stories about the boots getting filled with dirt and mud and grime, and causing problems down the road. Hopefully I will be dropping the jeep off for steering tomorrow.

New pictures with full lift: Picture of the rear springs and new U-bolts. There is all kinds of room under there once you take out the spare tire: Picture of the front with the stock steering. I'm going to have the steering replaced with a cross over setup from Phat Jeeps later this week. No shocks yet, hopefully I'll get those tomorrow and put them on before the long drive.

Finally got the rear lift on. I used 4.5 inch Hell Creek leaf springs, and some new U-bolts from Currie. The rear wasn't too difficult, I had to unbolt the brake junction box thing from the axle for the lines to reach alright. I'll get some pictures up ASAP. The front upper tire to bottom fender lip is about 7 12", and the rears are 8". I am still using my stock shackles, but the bushings look pretty worn in them, so I may replace them soon. I'm leaning towards either the RE greasable shackles, or the revolvers. I think I'm going to lose a little lift either way, which is alright by me. I'm also keeping my stock rear springs, they're pretty flexy. I'll put them back in when I go spring over at some future point. Went and flexed it out, and measured 17" stuffed in the front, and 26" droop. Rear measured 18" stuff, 23" droop. Those measurements are from shock mount to shock mount, on my stock 235x/75. Next step is to get the stock steering/track bar replaced.

Well I finally got a jump today, and it started with no problems...Only cranked like twice before it fired up. I will probably replace the CPS as a precaution, and remove the connector, splicing the wires directly together. At least that way, I'll have a good trail spare. I noticed one other weird thing about the fuel pump. I drove it a short distance to get gas, and when I removed the gas cap, the tank was pressurized. I'm guessing this is normal. But is it normal for the tank to actually *pop*? It also seems to do it anytime I turn the engine off, the tank will *pop* back out after 3-5 minutes.

Took off the CPS yesterday (Not too bad on a 2.5L), and took it to a few stores. Of course, no one had one in stock... I replaced the fuel filter and put the old CPS back. Seems like she wants to fire now, but my battery is too drained. I ordered a new CPS as a precaution...The guy calls me today and tells me there is only one left in the county, in VA? I'll post an update when I either fire it up, or replace the CPS.

Thanks, I'll check the fuel filter and wires and plugs. Its only got 80k on it, but since it's 22 years old, I should probably replace the wires and plugs I guess. I should have stated in my first post - The truck only behaves this way when it's been sitting for more than say, 12 hours. Once its been started and driven, it usually starts without problems for the next couple of hours.

I know, I have searched, and many say the CPS for the 4.0L. I've got an '86 with the 2.5, and it has an excessively long crank to start... So long, that it killed my battery before the truck actually started. I know when the truck is about to start, because the RPM meter will just stay low when it's cranking... And once it starts flailing about wildly, the truck usually starts. But the RPM meter didn't move at all...The truck just cranked, and cranked, and cranked... Is this a symptom of a CPS on this system, or something more? This has only started happening recently.

PM Sent. If anyone else wants any of the stock parts, let me know. I have the stock upper and lower control arms, and will soon have the stock steering and trackbar / bracket. I will be keeping my rear leafs. I didn't think there was much of a market for stock stuff, so I was just going to toss it all.

Lifted the front of the Jeep today. Wanted to do the rear, but we ran out of time... And I'm skiing tomorrow. Gotta get it all in before the season is over! Progress pics. Set the lower adjustable arms to 16 3/4", uppers to 15" originally. We moved the uppers "out" 5 full turns, so I have no idea what they're at now. Reused the stock steering and track bar. I have new brake lines, but did not install them today. I'll get to that next weekend with the rear. All the old parts we pulled out. A picture with the stock tires... And a few poser pictures with my roommates spare 33x12.50

Here she is, my 'red-headed stepchild.' She's an '86 with the 2.5L, 5 speed (I believe it's an AX-5, I haven't confirmed.) Stock Dana 30/35 axles, 207 transfer case. Bought it with 78,xxx miles, only put 3k miles on it in the last year. Hardly any rust, just a little on the tailgate. The only 'major' aesthetic thing I've done so far is to replace a missing grill. Driving-wise, I've had to replace the catalytic converter, PS pump and box, and head gasket. Also needs the clutch replaced, which will happen next week. The interior is CHERRY... Not just the color. One minor blemish on the drivers door by the crank handle... And the headliner is falling down, no biggie. No cheap gauges here! THE PLAN: I've got some major future plans for this truck. First things first though. New 4.5 inch rear leafs from Hell Creek: Adjustable upper and lower control arms, 4.5 inch springs and a heavy duty track bar bracket from RE: Should be lifting the truck next weekend. After the lift, I'll take it to Phat Jeeps Offroad in Rollinsville, CO for some heavy duty steering and a track bar. Then the 33x12.50 on some 15x8 rims with 4 inch backspace, and I'll measure for some shocks. I'll probably buy some quick disconnects for the sway bar too, after the lift so I can measure for sure. One quick question... the bushings on the rear shackles look pretty worn. Is it possible to replace them, or do I need to replace the entire shackle? I've got a little hardware for the front control arms, should I plan on replacing the rest and the rear U-bolts, or will everything clean up decently? I'd rather spend a little extra now than break it the first time I wheel it. Also, the moonroof leaks when it rains hard, or when I wash it. Is it possible to replace the seal? I'll be sure to keep this updated. Thanks!

I'm getting to the point where I believe I'm needing a new clutch, it's starting to slip on me. I'm at 80k miles on my '86 2.5L 5 speed, which I think is about average mileage for a clutch. I'm wanting to try to replace it with something perhaps a little stronger than stock. This is going to be primarily a rock crawling rig, and I'd like to have something that will provide good grip. I've heard good things and bad things about these for off-roading. There is only one other thread about centerforce clutches on here, and seems there was some mixed opinions. I wouldn't want to go with a dual-friction, just a stage II. Is this even an option for this engine/tranny combo? Also, if I purchase the clutch kit, and new master and slave cylinders, what else would be required to make sure I take care of everything while it's apart? Thanks.

Alright, thanks. Such a shame, because my A/C blew colder than it did in my brand new chevy...

Isn't the system pressurized? Would I have to have a shop remove/replace it, or is it something that can be done in a home garage with basic tools?

Finally had some time to go out and check. Found that the AC Compressor pulley does not turn freely...or at all for that matter. Is the pulley something that can be replaced, or does the entire compressor have to be replaced? Any suggestions?

Started having some problems about a week ago, noticed the belt would squeal upon start-up, sometimes some smoke. The belt would eventually stop squealing, but felt hot to the touch. It looked pretty grooved and missing some chunks, so I went ahead and replaced it. I think I got the tension about the same as it was before I removed it. However, my truck will no longer start. When I crank, it cranks pretty slow, like something is wrong with the battery or starter. Measured battery at 12V. Tried to jump it, and it turned over faster, but still no start. Is it possible that the belt is too tight, causing the engine to have difficulty turning over? I also noticed a grinding noise after I had tried to jump with no success, like perhaps the flywheel or starter is missing some teeth or something. My clutch has started to go out, I'm 80,000k miles with no change. Any ideas? EDIT: By the way, its an '86 with the 2.5L and 5 speed.

I live in the Denver area. Not sure about any comanche specific clubs.

Thanks guys. Probably going with Claytons for sure, RE Springs....not sure on brake lines, any good words? Buddy is trying to talk me into an 8.8 swap while I'm at it. He says whats the point in having an SOA done to the Dana 35, if I'm going to be running 33's I'm going to break it anyway. He broke the 35 on his ZJ running on 33s on the highway.... I've heard I can get a 95-01 Explorer 8.8 with disk brakes, but I've gotta run some spaces due to a slightly smaller width. Any problems with this with 33x12.50 on a 15.8 with a 4 inch backspace?

Recently bought a comanche, and I've been lurking here for a while. Don't get me wrong, I love the truck. But I seem to have the red-headed stepchild of the family - '86 Comanche X with the 2.5L and a 5 speed, which I suppose means the 207 transfer case. Seems to have a lot of options though - bucket seats, moonroof, full gauges. Bought it with 80k original miles on it, and its in fantastic shape. That said, I'm wanting to turn this into an off-road vehicle. I've always been told if its worth doing, its worth doing right. I'm looking at a 6 inch lift, and wanting to go long-arms. Either Claytons or RE. I know a great shop here that will be able to make it fit, but I'm just torn as to which way to go. Claytons seems to be better quality, but I'm a bit put off by make sure I get all the parts - springs seperately, as well as brake lines, and I have no idea what else. Probably SOA on the rear. Also thinking about an engine swap at some point. I know the 3.1 and 3.4 V6 is almost a direct swap into a 2.8, but what about a 2.5? If anyone can make sense of my post, and respond with any suggestions, I would appreciate it. Thanks.