NC Tom Posted November 13 Share Posted November 13 I had done a lot of work on my (88 Renix) truck in 2022. Replaced almost the entire fuel system due to leaks. Anyway, it sat for almost a year due to time and money issues. Got out two days ago and started working at it again. It was just not starting, but it cranks strong. Skipping ahead, I decided to open up the electrical box on the firewall, the 101 I think?, sprayed it with electrical cleaned, closed it up and it cranked and started like nothing was wrong. Drove it one day, no issues. It's 35 degrees this morning and now it won't start, but does crank. I can hear the fuel pump running and I do have fuel to the rail but, pressing the relief valve doesn't spray everywhere. Just a small spray and then a trickle. This leads me back to the fuel pump. Can a drop in outside temps cause a weak fuel pump to become weaker? Can warm weather cause it to become stronger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 13 Share Posted November 13 have you cleaned up the ground? added a new ground? or if the ground side is strong, maybe try bypassing the ballast resistor to give it more positive juice while running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted November 15 Author Share Posted November 15 On 11/13/2024 at 10:01 AM, Pete M said: have you cleaned up the ground? added a new ground? or if the ground side is strong, maybe try bypassing the ballast resistor to give it more positive juice while running. Yeah, I did Crusier's grounding stuff. I also cleaned the heck out that C101, but it didn't take long to get really gummed up again. I should delete that thing too. I was unaware that you could bypass the ballast resistor. I'll look for the write-up on that. Thanks Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted November 15 Share Posted November 15 For a temporary fix, you could just put a jumper between the wires for the ballast resistor. That would let you know if that’s the problem or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted November 15 Author Share Posted November 15 5 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: For a temporary fix, you could just put a jumper between the wires for the ballast resistor. That would let you know if that’s the problem or not. What gauge jumper wire would be best? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted November 15 Share Posted November 15 31 minutes ago, NC Tom said: What gauge jumper wire would be best? The same gauge as the ballast resistor wires, or heavier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted November 17 Author Share Posted November 17 On 11/15/2024 at 2:07 PM, 89 MJ said: The same gauge as the ballast resistor wires, or heavier. That's what I figured, but you never know with this Renix stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted Sunday at 06:47 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 06:47 PM Okay, before doing anything I tried a start since it's warmer today. Started up, no issues. BTW, sat for 4 days before trying anything. After letting it run for a bit, for good measure, I re-cleaned the C101 and made sure the blade connectors on the ballast were shiny. I did not try the ballast bypass. So, what it temperature dependent? It hasn't been that cold here. I guess I'll know tomorrow morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted Sunday at 10:20 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:20 PM I'd recommend utilizing Oxgard on connections like the ballast resistor. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-1-oz-Ox-Gard-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/4514334 It helps seal out moisture to prevent corrosion and is electrically conductive. I would not use it on the c101 as the electrical conductivity could easily bridge connections between wires that shouldn't be connected. Did you retention the pins on the C101? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted Tuesday at 12:37 PM Author Share Posted Tuesday at 12:37 PM Warmer day yesterday, no issues. Colder this morning, no start, just cranking. Bypassed the ballast res. and it did start, but not right off. All total, maybe a dozen tries. I can't be sure the jumper wire was the "fix." I do smell gas and found that fuel is seeping out (not dripping) around that plastic fuel rail/fuel line connector. @pizzaman09 I did not retention the pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted Tuesday at 02:34 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 02:34 PM you need to replace the gunk in the c101 so something will keep the moisture at bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted Wednesday at 10:48 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 10:48 PM On 11/19/2024 at 9:34 AM, Pete M said: you need to replace the gunk in the c101 so something will keep the moisture at bay. Sure. How much do I need? Dielectric grease comes in many sizes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted Wednesday at 11:00 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 11:00 PM On the topic of the C101. I found that in the heat it would liquify the crap in the connector and screw up my connections. Notably the O2. I cleaned and cleaned without really tearing it apart and my issue would go away for a bit but would return after a few days to a week. Then what I finally did was take an air gun from my air compressor and blew air into each socket for the terminal and blew the hardened gunk out to eliminate my issue of it turning to a grease like substance and ruining my good clean connection. So far so good. Now I haven’t done anything for moisture prevention as water feels nonexistent here and I probably should add something but I’ll get to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted Wednesday at 11:08 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 11:08 PM 5 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: On the topic of the C101. I found that in the heat it would liquify the crap in the connector and screw up my connections. Notably the O2. I cleaned and cleaned without really tearing it apart and my issue would go away for a bit but would return after a few days to a week. Then what I finally did was take an air gun from my air compressor and blew air into each socket for the terminal and blew the hardened gunk out to eliminate my issue of it turning to a grease like substance and ruining my good clean connection. So far so good. Now I haven’t done anything for moisture prevention as water feels nonexistent here and I probably should add something but I’ll get to it. Good to know. I live in NC, Watauga Co., specifically. It's considered a "temperate rain forest". So, it's a little more wet here than the scorching, parched land of AZ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted Wednesday at 11:18 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 11:18 PM 28 minutes ago, NC Tom said: Sure. How much do I need? Dielectric grease comes in many sizes? This 30lb bucket should do Seriously though, I’d probably get two of the smaller tubes from a parts store and hope that took care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted Thursday at 04:05 AM Share Posted Thursday at 04:05 AM Fix your fuel leak at the rail. That’s critical On 11/19/2024 at 10:37 PM, NC Tom said: Warmer day yesterday, no issues. Colder this morning, no start, just cranking. Bypassed the ballast res. and it did start, but not right off. All total, maybe a dozen tries. I can't be sure the jumper wire was the "fix." I do smell gas and found that fuel is seeping out (not dripping) around that plastic fuel rail/fuel line connector. @pizzaman09 I did not retention the pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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