Changing Oil to slow down RMS leak?

[robfg67]

I replaced my RMS a while back and there were no drips for 2-3 weeks, then it started leaking at a rate worse than before.

 

Scanning other Jeep internet forums, some guys have had success is slowing/stopping the drips by changing to conventional high mileage oil. I'm currently running Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.

 

Any thoughts on this and should I change from 10w30 to a different weight? Although garaged, I live in the northeast, so it will have some cold temperature starts.

[89 MJ]

Even conventional non-high mileage oil will swell seals more than synthetic oils.
 

You could run 10W-40, but I don’t think it’s necessary. I run conventional 10W-30 with a zinc additive in all of my old stuff. Granted, the Comanche doesn’t get run at all in the cold, but my Eagle and tractors do and it’s been fine in all of those. It’s one of those things, if you put enough miles on it in a year to where you’ll be needing an oil change anyways, you might as well switch to 10W-40 or something. If the truck only gets a couple thousand miles per year, I wouldn’t bother. I also wouldn’t bother if the truck doesn’t get run all winter. 
 

Everyone has their own opinions on oil, so be prepared for that. 

[robfg67]

Thanks for your input.

 

Do you add a zinc additive? If so, which one?

[89 MJ]

2 minutes ago, robfg67 said:

Do you add a zinc additive? If so, which one?

I use this one:

 

It’s available at pretty much every auto parts store. I use half a bottle per oil change. You could also use Valvoline VR1 racing oil as that also has the zddp that you need and is conventional oil. The zinc is used for flat tapper cams like these engines have otherwise you run the risk of wiping a cam lobe or wrecking the lifter. There are plenty of people who don’t use it and don’t have issues. It is most crucial on engine break in. Supposedly the zinc will also clog your catalytic converter quicker. 
 

Please don’t just take my word for it. I encourage you to do your own research and decide the route that you want to go. 

[RG67MA]

No Cat on my truck. Massachusetts doesn't test for emissions on vehicles older than 15 years.

[Pete M]

drop the pan and redo it.  gotta bite the bullet on this one.  

[Motorhead X]

Make absolutely sure they gave you the correct RMS size. I had this same issue after doing the job twice. Took it to a mechanic for the third time who let me know the parts person gave me an incorrect part. Not saying this is your problem, but just my experience.

[robfg67]

Pete, I'm not expecting the oil change to resolve the issue, but hopefully slow it down and I'll redo it in the spring.

 

Motorhead X, yes, I'm sure that I got the correct RMS.

 

Not sure how this happened. I did a ton of research, including watching many different videos, and then took my time doing it over a couple of weeks.

Weird how it held for at least two weeks and then started dripping.

[Eagle_SX4]

It may not be the rear main. It could be the oil pan gasket. I used the blue fel-pro gasket and the rear part that goes over the rear bearing cap doesn't like to stay in place. I had to redo it twice before I got it right.

[robfg67]

@Eagle_SX4, that might very well be. I used the blue Fel-Pro gasket and waited 3 days for the gasket sealer at the ends to cure before I refilled the oil and drove her.

 

I'll check it more closely in the spring.