Warthog Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 Hello all! Hope everyone is safe and well. Got a question. I’m wanting to strip my steering column of everything except the horn flashers and blinkers. Want to install a push button start and remove the key mechanism. Also want the lock gone. Movin wipers to dash and bright beams to the floor. I assume it’s just a matter of chasing what wire does what and taking out the start mechanism and lock and replacing? Anyone do anything close to this or have taken em apart before to remove lock or replace ignition switch? Many thanks in advance. I’m doin this to both the Cherokee and my comanche Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 should be several videos on youtube for tearing down the column to replace things. can't say I've ever read about someone do you exact plan though. but maybe for the more dedicated race trucks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 On 8/11/2024 at 7:06 AM, Warthog said: Hello all! Hope everyone is safe and well. Got a question. I’m wanting to strip my steering column of everything except the horn flashers and blinkers. Want to install a push button start and remove the key mechanism. Also want the lock gone. Movin wipers to dash and bright beams to the floor. I assume it’s just a matter of chasing what wire does what and taking out the start mechanism and lock and replacing? Anyone do anything close to this or have taken em apart before to remove lock or replace ignition switch? Many thanks in advance. I’m doin this to both the Cherokee and my comanche Checkout the project “Comanche Dawn” in epic tech. Push button start can be relatively simple or quite complex depending on what you’re wanting to do. Keep in mind that our steering columns are just standard GM columns and there is quite an aftermarket. Digital guard dog and flaming river both make full kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 The only one of the switches you want to remove from the column that’s actually in the column is the wiper switch, and you need it in there if you want turn signals because it holds the turn signal stalk. Ignition and high/low beam switches are under the dash at the base of the column and actuated by rods. Look up a write-up for teardown on a GM Saginaw column. You’ll want a cheap lock plate tool for making the process much easier. You shouldn’t need other special tools to get any deeper into the column unless you need to tighten up a floppy tilt mechanism. The steering lock plate needs to be in the column because it retains everything, I don’t know if it would be easier to pull the lock pin or trim the locking portion off the lock plate, it’ll make sense when you get it apart. If you’ve got an automatic you’ll want to do something with the shift interlock as well. Don’t remember off the top of my head how that fits into the picture. IMO floor mounted high beam switches are more problematic than they’re worth. They fill full of crap off your boots and get sticky, and where they screw to the floor pan usually rusts out in short order. But they are definitely cheaper than other high beam switch options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 1 hour ago, gogmorgo said: . IMO floor mounted high beam switches are more problematic than they’re worth. They fill full of crap off your boots and get sticky, and where they screw to the floor pan usually rusts out in short order. But they are definitely cheaper than other high beam switch options. You are 100% spot on with floor mounted bright light switches in northern/rust belt climates. If the vehicle stays in southern climes, those switches seem to survive reasonably well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 Agree 100% on the floor mounted high/low beam switches. In my CJ, I converted to a YJ column to get the dimmer switch on the turn signal lever and get rid of the problematic floor switch. This was after I put new terminals on the wires, and then covered everything in epoxy to seal it. Then put a metripak disconnect further up the harness. If the switch ever went bad again, I would have got a new switch and made up another harness, re-using the connector. But using the YJ column also put the wiper controls on the turn signal stalk, which is more convenient than reaching for the dash with my shifting hand (manual trans). I've thought about going to a push button start, especially after driving military rigs that don't have key switches (HMMWVs, 5 tons, 7 tons). But every time I really, seriously looked into it, the elegant packaging and wiring of the Saginaw steering column made me change my mind. For me, it wasn't worth work. To do what you describe, it seems to me the best route would be to find an older steering column and retrofit that into your rig. Maybe a column out of a 70-72 Chevy truck? The key was on the dash, and I think the turn signal switch was in the column? Or an early CJ, 60s to early 70s, key was on the dash, and even the turn signal switch was a separate assembly that was clamped to the steering column. Once the conversion was finished, it's unlikely you would ever need to dig into the steering column to do any kind of repair. I think you would be giving up tilt, if that matters. I've also thought of removing the steering lock. I used to daily drive a 67 CJ5. I'd shut the ignition off two blocks from my house, coast down the road, then swing a 90 degree turn into my driveway and coast to a perfect stop. It wouldn't be hard to do in a Saginaw column, just trim the lock rod short, circled in red in the picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 6 hours ago, AZJeff said: You are 100% spot on with floor mounted bright light switches in northern/rust belt climates. If the vehicle stays in southern climes, those switches seem to survive reasonably well. I’ve had to replace them up here just from gravel road dust on vehicles that don’t see any use in the winter. We’ve still got a couple medium and heavy duty trucks from the ‘80’s and ‘90’s at work that have them. Most are screwed to an 1/8” steel plate patching a hole. Although thinking about it now it wouldn’t surprise me if the old truck drivers are stepping on them with the same force they’d step on the clutch and just kicking them through the floorboards instead of it being totally down to the grit and rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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