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8 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Also make sure no one nearby hands you a lit roman candle or cigarette while you’re under there :L: :holdwrench:

 

 

 

hahaha! You made my day ghet!!

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This is my area! I used to work at the manufacturer for a lot of gas tanks. 

 

There is a special tool for it that fits on a ratchet, but honestly the best advice is to use a long, wide flathead screwdriver, or a punch, and tap one of the teeth of the outer locking ring counter clockwise. 

 

Now the seals can *technically* be used, but they should not be. Believe it or not, the smallest freaking little hair can cause an air leak. 

 

Yep, reworked a ton of gas tanks in my days there. But never an XJ/MJ tank.

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Thanks to all was wondering about the whole spark thing. I've had guys say don't use screwdriver because of spark and I've had guys say it's no problem

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9 hours ago, 72cut said:

Thanks to all was wondering about the whole spark thing. I've had guys say don't use screwdriver because of spark and I've had guys say it's no problem

Gasoline itself really is not flammable as a liquid.  The issue is when it becomes a vapor and it had the right air fuel ratio to want to burn.  That said, it's better  to be safe, though I've only ever seen people just use a big screwdriver.

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I've disassembled thousands of tanks with flatheads and never once saw a spark, ever, not in the seven years I did it. 

 

However, it doesn't mean it isn't possible or dangerous, and it disregards the attempt to do things safely. 

 

Find a thick, very sturdy piece of plastic that you know can take a beating and use it in lieu of a flathead or chisel. I have seen folks use the handle of another screwdriver instead of the flathead. 

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If you really wanted to have a tool for the job, and maybe you'll need to use it more than once, here is what I have used, more or less. May not be the same brand, but it's adjustable and it works. 

 

Also, a skilled fabricator can make this at home, and it would likely be more solid. 

 

If you do use this tool, understand that the outer locking ring is usually going to be VERY tight. These were usually assembled with machines that applied a specific level of torque, locking the outer ring onto an encapsulate ring (E-ring). If you do use this type of tool, and there are others just like it, don't be dismayed by the resistance you'll have. That ring is gonna be on very tight and usually the fuel pump tool prefers a quick, hard break.

 

Which is why I always advocate to skip the tool.

 

The only real problem with using a blunt tool instead of the proper tool is actually two-fold: Gouging the rank/E-ring with the flathead or damaging the o-ring. Could also bend the E-ring too, but that's a bit tricky to do without meaning to. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/AUPREX-Universal-Removal-Adjustable-Install/dp/B0CLNP27M5/ref=asc_df_B0CLNP27M5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693655229489&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10658735990478666746&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016335&hvtargid=pla-2282083389349&psc=1&mcid=3068ade82d6434f0b28056f1d3a72a68&gad_source=1

 

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Sparks happen when a hard material  strikes another hard material with enough force to dislodge a chip and enough energy to heat it up.

The ring isn’t particularly hard, it’s very unlikely to generate a spark. Your punch or screwdriver or whatever you’re using will be firmly planted against the ring, it’s not going to spark against the ring. If you have to hit the back of your punch with a hammer hard enough to create a spark you’re doing something wrong. But a plastic screwdriver handle isn’t going to spark. 

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