72cut Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 Hey Everyone can someone recommend a good tool for removing lock ring on gas tank of an 88 MJ, one that works the best? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 I have always just used a piece of 1/4” brass rod and a hammer. Just light taps to get it moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboedMJ Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 I have used a hammer and a big flathead screwdriver with light taps. Just be careful and take it slow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 Use something that cannot spark in case there are fuel fumes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 Hammer and flat head screw driver. It will probably be caked on there. Clean up around the ring first so dirt or debris doesn’t get down in the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 I used a brass punch and a brass hammer. Brass because it won’t create sparks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 Also make sure no one nearby hands you a lit roman candle or cigarette while you’re under there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 8 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Also make sure no one nearby hands you a lit roman candle or cigarette while you’re under there hahaha! You made my day ghet!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinnakerblue89 Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 This is my area! I used to work at the manufacturer for a lot of gas tanks. There is a special tool for it that fits on a ratchet, but honestly the best advice is to use a long, wide flathead screwdriver, or a punch, and tap one of the teeth of the outer locking ring counter clockwise. Now the seals can *technically* be used, but they should not be. Believe it or not, the smallest freaking little hair can cause an air leak. Yep, reworked a ton of gas tanks in my days there. But never an XJ/MJ tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cut Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 Thanks to all was wondering about the whole spark thing. I've had guys say don't use screwdriver because of spark and I've had guys say it's no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 9 hours ago, 72cut said: Thanks to all was wondering about the whole spark thing. I've had guys say don't use screwdriver because of spark and I've had guys say it's no problem Gasoline itself really is not flammable as a liquid. The issue is when it becomes a vapor and it had the right air fuel ratio to want to burn. That said, it's better to be safe, though I've only ever seen people just use a big screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinnakerblue89 Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 I've disassembled thousands of tanks with flatheads and never once saw a spark, ever, not in the seven years I did it. However, it doesn't mean it isn't possible or dangerous, and it disregards the attempt to do things safely. Find a thick, very sturdy piece of plastic that you know can take a beating and use it in lieu of a flathead or chisel. I have seen folks use the handle of another screwdriver instead of the flathead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinnakerblue89 Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 If you really wanted to have a tool for the job, and maybe you'll need to use it more than once, here is what I have used, more or less. May not be the same brand, but it's adjustable and it works. Also, a skilled fabricator can make this at home, and it would likely be more solid. If you do use this tool, understand that the outer locking ring is usually going to be VERY tight. These were usually assembled with machines that applied a specific level of torque, locking the outer ring onto an encapsulate ring (E-ring). If you do use this type of tool, and there are others just like it, don't be dismayed by the resistance you'll have. That ring is gonna be on very tight and usually the fuel pump tool prefers a quick, hard break. Which is why I always advocate to skip the tool. The only real problem with using a blunt tool instead of the proper tool is actually two-fold: Gouging the rank/E-ring with the flathead or damaging the o-ring. Could also bend the E-ring too, but that's a bit tricky to do without meaning to. https://www.amazon.com/AUPREX-Universal-Removal-Adjustable-Install/dp/B0CLNP27M5/ref=asc_df_B0CLNP27M5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693655229489&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10658735990478666746&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016335&hvtargid=pla-2282083389349&psc=1&mcid=3068ade82d6434f0b28056f1d3a72a68&gad_source=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 Sparks happen when a hard material strikes another hard material with enough force to dislodge a chip and enough energy to heat it up. The ring isn’t particularly hard, it’s very unlikely to generate a spark. Your punch or screwdriver or whatever you’re using will be firmly planted against the ring, it’s not going to spark against the ring. If you have to hit the back of your punch with a hammer hard enough to create a spark you’re doing something wrong. But a plastic screwdriver handle isn’t going to spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72cut Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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