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Best ride quality lift kit? Not an extreme rock crawler


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2 hours ago, MYE Jeep said:

@ghetdjc320 Man you are a wealth of information! Time to get the credit card out!

 

One question I have, as most of the JK/JKU kits I work with are direct bolt on with minor cutting and drilling.. How do you determine the pitch angle of the rear axle when re-welding leaf brackets and shock mounts? Just whatever gives the best angle for the driveshaft? or is there a more scientific and methodical approach to this?

 

Thanks a ton!


 

No worries! I just happened to be in a position to reply but there is a wealth of knowledge here from all users. 
 

For your pinion angle, it does depend on the style of driveshaft you have. Here is an example and explanation: https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles


In summary, if you have a stock driveshaft, you pinion angle should be parallel to the transfer case output shaft or 1-3 degrees above that. The reason for the 1-3 degrees above parallel is to compensate for axle rotation and/or weight in the bed. This helps maintain that parallel angle as the pinion moves. 

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2 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:


 

No worries! I just happened to be in a position to reply but there is a wealth of knowledge here from all users. 
 

For your pinion angle, it does depend on the style of driveshaft you have. Here is an example and explanation: https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles


In summary, if you have a stock driveshaft, you pinion angle should be parallel to the transfer case output shaft or 1-3 degrees above that. The reason for the 1-3 degrees above parallel is to compensate for axle rotation and/or weight in the bed. This helps maintain that parallel angle as the pinion moves. 

Hmm, okay that makes sense.. but brings up another question, let’s say you angle the u-joint of the axle between 1-3°, all is good in the universe and your driveshaft is a happy camper. Forgive my ignorance, but what measurement dictates where the cradle should be mounted along the axle for the leaf pack to rest on? Should the leaf pack cradle be welded as close to level as possible, while the axle rests within its 1-3° angle?

 

Thanks in advance! 

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43 minutes ago, MYE Jeep said:

Hmm, okay that makes sense.. but brings up another question, let’s say you angle the u-joint of the axle between 1-3°, all is good in the universe and your driveshaft is a happy camper. Forgive my ignorance, but what measurement dictates where the cradle should be mounted along the axle for the leaf pack to rest on? Should the leaf pack cradle be welded as close to level as possible, while the axle rests within its 1-3° angle?

 

Thanks in advance! 

Normally what we do is bolt up the axle and center it on the truck with the perches unwelded. Make sure to set the truck down so the weight will be close to the unloaded running weight. The u bolts will hold everything in place then you can rotate the axle until you get your ideal pinion angle. Then tack weld in place. Pull the axle back out and weld up the brackets. The shock mounts can be done at the same time or later. 

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:yeahthat:

I’ve always been told that the rear axle needs to be within 2.5 degrees of the crankshaft. That would also be within 2.5 degrees of perpendicular to the end of the tail shaft of your transfer case. 

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Perfect! Thanks so much for all of the assistance will this! You guys all seriously rock!

 

Another question, since I'll be pulling out the D35 to do all of this, I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to have it rebuilt, and also try to add disc brakes.

 

Has anyone tried using a kit like this or similar to achieve this?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/12700_1001.htm

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4 hours ago, MYE Jeep said:

Perfect! Thanks so much for all of the assistance will this! You guys all seriously rock!

 

Another question, since I'll be pulling out the D35 to do all of this, I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to have it rebuilt, and also try to add disc brakes.

 

Has anyone tried using a kit like this or similar to achieve this?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/12700_1001.htm

What year is your Dana 35? Most will say it’s not an axle worth sinking any money into. If your not planning on any heavy wheeling though and stick to 33’s or smaller, it can be made to last. 

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17 minutes ago, MYE Jeep said:

The Dana 35 in there is likely from a 95 Cherokee. How rare is the MJ D44?  Is it worth it to look for one of those instead of swapping to the 8.25?

 

They aren't cheap, around me they go for about 400 vs a 8.25 between 1-200. Ford 8.8 is another option. Typically able to get those with disc brakes and a lsd. Had one in my XJ and did fine. 

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On 11/27/2021 at 3:02 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

Here is that listing: 

 

Dang! Thanks so much for sharing!

from what I’ve gathered the spline count for most D35 rears is 27, and the spline count for the D44 is 30 right? So would a D44 swap require a 30 spline driveshaft as well to complete the swap? Or how does that work?

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6 hours ago, keeponjeepinon said:

I'm putting an 8.8 in mine, and adding C clip eliminator axles to make it 1 inch wider than the 35. I got the housing for $100 from the JY, a lot of them have 3.73 with a LSD. The spline count is for the axle shaft going into the spider gear in the diff, has nothing to do with the driveshaft. 20211127_141226.jpg.745a6748aaa3402e8c7062bbae17ae58.jpg

Haha thank you so much for clarifying that for me... I'm sitting here going.. "man this is really starting to get complex with all these spline counts". Makes total sense now, the splines are on the axle, not the output shaft of the diff. DUH. I guess I could've crawled under it and found that out really quickly! I've heard the 8.25 and the 8.8 are kinda the way to go with these for best bang for the buck, however as far as drivetrain I'm sort of trying to keep things as original as possible, or atleast  "original factory options". So I think I'll probably make the search for a D44, even though its probably the harder and more expensive route lol

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2 hours ago, MYE Jeep said:

Haha thank you so much for clarifying that for me... I'm sitting here going.. "man this is really starting to get complex with all these spline counts". Makes total sense now, the splines are on the axle, not the output shaft of the diff. DUH. I guess I could've crawled under it and found that out really quickly! I've heard the 8.25 and the 8.8 are kinda the way to go with these for best bang for the buck, however as far as drivetrain I'm sort of trying to keep things as original as possible, or atleast  "original factory options". So I think I'll probably make the search for a D44, even though its probably the harder and more expensive route lol


 

A D44 from an MJ if you can find one is an easy swap especially if you will use a spring under axle configuration since the spring perches will be in the correct position. It’s the right width and lug pattern out of the box and bolts right in. In stock form it’s considered generally good for up to 35” tires. The 97 and later 8.25 or the liberty 8.25 is also a nice axle. I personally would never run another ford 8.8 axle unless it was free. And I’ve built many of them in the past. 

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18 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:


 

A D44 from an MJ if you can find one is an easy swap especially if you will use a spring under axle configuration since the spring perches will be in the correct position. It’s the right width and lug pattern out of the box and bolts right in. In stock form it’s considered generally good for up to 35” tires. The 97 and later 8.25 or the liberty 8.25 is also a nice axle. I personally would never run another ford 8.8 axle unless it was free. And I’ve built many of them in the past. 

I actually got in touch with the guy in Santa Cruz that had the D44 listed for sale(The link you sent me). He's working up some shipping quotes for me at the moment and will either be shipping it to me or meeting me in Vegas on his way to Moab! Should be a great setup for me! Probably will have to end up re-gearing it down the line, but will bolt in for the time being so I'm really excited about that! Now I'm just trying to decide on the leaf springs, either the standard or MT, I can't decide haha

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