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Jeep MJ project, guidance needed


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Ok, I stopped at the scrapyard today and grabbed a couple of center consoles. I tried grabbing a t-case linkage as well but the bracket that's attached to the body was absolutely not coming off, and I wasn't sure if I'd have to drop the t case or what. I wasn't having the best time rolling around in the mud fighting seized bolts so I left. Maybe I'll try again here soon on a dry day, maybe you guy's will have some tips to help with removal.

 

The consoles are from a 1990 and a 1999 Cherokee. I'm hoping the 99 will work as it comes with a cupholder.

 

I assume I'd identify the t-case by the red tag, but the case at the scrapyard doesn't have one. How can I identify it?

 

Also I removed the transmission by myself last night. A floor jack, 2 jack stands and a lot of patience and it wasn't TOO bad. Installation will not be as smooth I'd imagine. Now that I have the trans off I'd like to order my clutch kit. I'm not sure if I need a new flywheel or not. Do I measure the thickness of it? What's the spec? Apologies for my lack of knowledge here I've never serviced a clutch.

 

I'm curious (and tell me if I'm being stupid) but as I don't yet have a t case linkage or a front 4x4 axle, can i drive the truck with the dana 35 in the rear and the t case in neutral? Will i be able to have a driveshaft made for my dana 35 and replace it with a 4.10 axle later or will my driveshaft need to be a different length for the Cherokee axle... I know it was mentioned that the rear axle does not bolt in. Hope my question makes sense.

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41 minutes ago, RusellFromCanada said:

Ok, I stopped at the scrapyard today and grabbed a couple of center consoles. I tried grabbing a t-case linkage as well but the bracket that's attached to the body was absolutely not coming off, and I wasn't sure if I'd have to drop the t case or what. I wasn't having the best time rolling around in the mud fighting seized bolts so I left. Maybe I'll try again here soon on a dry day, maybe you guy's will have some tips to help with removal.

 

The consoles are from a 1990 and a 1999 Cherokee. I'm hoping the 99 will work as it comes with a cupholder.

 

I assume I'd identify the t-case by the red tag, but the case at the scrapyard doesn't have one. How can I identify it?

 

Also I removed the transmission by myself last night. A floor jack, 2 jack stands and a lot of patience and it wasn't TOO bad. Installation will not be as smooth I'd imagine. Now that I have the trans off I'd like to order my clutch kit. I'm not sure if I need a new flywheel or not. Do I measure the thickness of it? What's the spec? Apologies for my lack of knowledge here I've never serviced a clutch.

 

I'm curious (and tell me if I'm being stupid) but as I don't yet have a t case linkage or a front 4x4 axle, can i drive the truck with the dana 35 in the rear and the t case in neutral? Will i be able to have a driveshaft made for my dana 35 and replace it with a 4.10 axle later or will my driveshaft need to be a different length for the Cherokee axle... I know it was mentioned that the rear axle does not bolt in. Hope my question makes sense.

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The 99 console will fit but will have a gap where the old console would meet the dash. I use the newer style console and I think it’s a far better design but you either have to live with the gap or fill it with something. 
 

The flywheel should be resurfaced. Typically your local Napa/oreillys can do this if they can turn rotors also. 
 

You can drive around without a front driveshaft and just leave the transfer case in 2wd (not neutral) assuming you have the typical NP231. 
 

A dana 44 and dana 35 driveshaft lengths are close. About 1” difference so it “may” work but you’ll have to measure to see.

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are you looking for the bracket that mounts to the tunnel? if so i have one you can have for the price of shipping. prolly only be 5 bucks

 

these are nice too https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Cherokee-transfer-linkage-Comanche/dp/B01N5RCB2B/ref=sr_1_3?crid=33WVFD4AP1BGX&dchild=1&keywords=azzy+linkage&qid=1623113474&sprefix=azzy+link%2Caps%2C302&sr=8-3

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21 hours ago, rylee144 said:

are you looking for the bracket that mounts to the tunnel? if so i have one you can have for the price of shipping. prolly only be 5 bucks

 

these are nice too https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Cherokee-transfer-linkage-Comanche/dp/B01N5RCB2B/ref=sr_1_3?crid=33WVFD4AP1BGX&dchild=1&keywords=azzy+linkage&qid=1623113474&sprefix=azzy+link%2Caps%2C302&sr=8-3

I need the entire t-case linkage. All I have is the t-case but nothing else. no shifter either. I'm in Alberta so I'm not sure what shipping would look like but I'd be interested to find out. I could find the shifter easily at a pick n pull if the linkage is all I need... I'm not familiar with the linkage on these trucks at all.

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26 minutes ago, MiNi Beast said:

Look at these for consideration. Solves common adjustment issues and more reliable. 

Xj/mj azzy linkage

That’s a nice linkage setup. Been running that for a few months now and it’s a much better shift feel and response. You’ll just need to get the actual floor shifter now. eBay if you can’t grab one at the local yard. 

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20 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

That’s a nice linkage setup. Been running that for a few months now and it’s a much better shift feel and response. You’ll just need to get the actual floor shifter now. eBay if you can’t grab one at the local yard. 

Like this floor shifter? :brows:

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I'd recommend getting the azzy linkage, you'll be much happier in the end then grab the handle portion at a junkyard or ebay. I bought that old z linkage thing and it sucked then spent more money to buy azzy. Might as well skip to that first 

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I found a guy selling 4.11 axles from a rollover cherokee. He has a dana 30 and a chrysler 8.25 with a spartan locker. I wasn't planning on doing anything more than 31's and some mild offroading BUT I would love a locker and a beefier rear axle for my 98 TJ. So, my question is, can I swap the current axles from my TJ (dana 30 and dana 35) into my comanche? A few searches lead me to believe I can. Then I'm assuming i would need to make perches for my TJ/MJ (8.25 for TJ and dana 35 for MJ)  for both rear axles and simply bolt in the front, Correct?

 

Also thank you guys for the advice about the t-case linkage. The guy with the axles has an azzy linkage for sale as well. I won't drive all the way out for just that, but if i go for the axles id pick that up too.

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14 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

I’d just put that tj front axle for sale. It’s a low pinion axle and the MJ has a better front axle. You could swap over the axles shafts though from the TJ to the MJ. 

My MJ does not have a front diff. I am doing a 4wd swap on it. if i were to sell my LP dana 30 i would need to find a new hp dana 30 with matching gears. Seems like too much work if i don't plan to wheel the MJ, no? 

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27 minutes ago, RusellFromCanada said:

My MJ does not have a front diff. I am doing a 4wd swap on it. if i were to sell my LP dana 30 i would need to find a new hp dana 30 with matching gears. Seems like too much work if i don't plan to wheel the MJ, no? 

Guess it depends on your plans for it. If you plan on keeping it or selling it to a Jeeper than an HP 30 would be a better swap. If it’s to just sell to someone who wants a 4wd truck then yes, the lp will swap in just fine. Just my $.02

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Thanks for your guy's opinion on the LP/HP dana 30. That will be one of the last steps as far as putting this truck on the road, so we'll see what pops up for sale and make a decision then.

 

Another few questions.

 

my ax-15 is from a 1997 cherokee. Will this mate up to my 87 Renix 4.0? I read that the pilot bearing would not match up? Will it effect which clutch/ flywheel I buy?

 

my exhaust manifold has a crack in it. It's cracked just before where it joins to the full exhaust pipe. I really don't want to buy another manifold, is welding it a bad idea? How much trouble have you guys had pulling these manifolds off?

 

 

 

 

 

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The 97 ax15 will fit but will need a pilot bearing for the renix flywheel. 
 

The exhaust manifold was redesigned the last few years of the 4.0 and a flex coupler was added which reduces the stress cracks that were very common. There is a doorman part number available for the manifold. Welding it won’t fix it for very long. And the cheap aftermarket headers tend to have the same problems with cracking. I’d go with the updated flex coupler design manifold unless you want to drop some coin on a good aftermarket header. Also, make sure all your exhaust hangers and mounting points are secure so it doesn’t add any undue stress on the manifold.

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1 hour ago, RusellFromCanada said:

Where can i find that manifold? And which pilot bearing is the one i want? I'm confused on that

 

Manifold can be found at any auto parts place or rock auto amongst others. Dorman 674-170 for the renix setup with the heating port and 674-196 for the HO model without the port
 

Pilot bushing is the 5th one listed here for your application: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/pilot-bushings/amc-ax15/

 

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On 9/14/2021 at 5:49 AM, 87MJTIM said:

The bushing you want is for a ‘74 CJ5 w/ a 304. This will have the correct inner and outer diameters to fit the larger input tip of the AX15. 
 

Search Rockauto for the part. 

Unless I'm looking at the wrong part this is a Bronze bushing rather than a roller bearing, is that correct? The one in my truck now is a roller bearing.

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