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Back to work after taking some time off from the truck. 


New driver's knuckle installed after I ruined the original. If you saw the thread, you know...

Honestly, it does fit better than the other one anyway so I'm happy I had to get another one in the end.


Got the front brakes all mounted except for the lines. Still need to buy them. Not too concerned at the moment since the rear is in the process of being torn apart so it's not going anywhere.


I'll have to swap out the pitman arm joint because the one in there currently won't accept grease. Tried 2 guns and multiple fittings. Good thing I accidentally bought 2 initially.


The rear leaf bolts are quite fun... Got the two bolts that attach each leaf to the shackles, but having a tough time with the front ones. Got the nut off the passenger side after cutting down the bolt itself (too long for my socket to fit over) but now the bolt is stuck. Going to try and use the bj press and see if it'll pop out. Worst case scenario I'll have to take a cutoff to the head. The real challenging one is the driver's side. There is almost no clearance between the bolt and gas tank skid. Even if the skid was off, the tank is still too close to fit an impact up there. VERY cautious to use heat in that area too. Really don't want to drop the tank. Currently brainstorming.


Took out the airbox and cleaned out all the squirrel treats. Replaced the "front" and "rear" vacuum lines with the Doorman replacements. The rear came with a hose that is too small for the air box nipple, so I sliced the inner part of the hose a few times to get it to fit. Then I replaced the oil filter and poured in the new oil. Started on the 1st try with a little love!


I will need to replace the battery cables as the shielding is gone for the positive to starter. When I changed the filter, I went to wipe off the oil beneath and found a bunch of goo. When I grabbed it to inspect I thought it was red RTV that someone never cleaned up. Nope, that was the plastic shielding of the cable...







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Saw saw the bolts perhaps. Which ever to get her done. :holdwrench: I'm not looking forward to my leaf spring swap but i do have to pull tank for a new one so guess i will plan for that at same time. Thanks for that tid bit. :L:

Yeah some parts are just better off replacing for the peace of mind. Glad you handled the knuckle and worked out good. 

Can you possibly drill a pilot hole in the grease fitting hole itself? :confused:

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It's a tough one for sure. If the bolts didn't get frozen within the bushings it would be a breeze. 


I have no problem taking a torch to the nut, but getting a cut-off in there producing tons of spark is scary. I suppose I could go get a welding blanket and stuff it. I'll have to play that one by ear.





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21 hours ago, MiNi Beast said:

Can you possibly drill a pilot hole in the grease fitting hole itself? 


Maybe, but since I have the 2nd one I'd rather try that one out. It really only takes 5-10min to replace. Once I replace though I may just experiment and test that theory out.

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Will that front bolt not come out with a BFH and some WD 40 or PB?  If I remember right a 3/8" socket extension is about the same diameter as the bolt.  I was able to at least break it loose using the breaker bar to turn it if that makes sense.

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Replaced the rear brakes today. First time with drums and can easily say I hate 'em. lol


The first one took maybe an hour or so to learn what the heck was going on. Then the 2nd side took maybe 5-10 min. Pretty simple once you get it down, but still a PITA either way. I did have a 2nd set of hands though, so I imagine the re-install would have taken a bit longer by myself.


I attempted to replace the front lines with some YJ lines, but lucky for me I purchased the early years and it didn't quite work. So those are now returned and I've got some '95s on the way. Not a huge deal again since it's not going anywhere quite yet.


An interesting thing happened with the front brake hose that I removed though. I took a torch to the nut to get it nice and hot, then I sprayed with some PB. As soon as I walked over to the toolbox to set the can down I heard a BANG and it didn't smell good. I walked over to see that the hose had blown off of the metal adapter and sprayed any remaining fluid all over the place. Glad I had walked away, and certainly a great thing to be aware of. I'll know for the passenger side and be more cautious. I bet that fluid sitting there was super hot.


Anyway, going to try and finish the AAL tomorrow. Still have quite a few things to do other than those brake lines so still plenty of work.













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On 8/27/2021 at 3:38 PM, jeepmjga said:

Will that front bolt not come out with a BFH and some WD 40 or PB?  If I remember right a 3/8" socket extension is about the same diameter as the bolt.  I was able to at least break it loose using the breaker bar to turn it if that makes sense.


It's loose-ish. Just married to the bushing so doesn't do much to turn it.


I've got the exhaust hanging on by a literal thread right there so didn't have the room. I'm going to cut it just after the CAT and I'll have the room for a punch and BFH. I couldn't figure out a good method for the BJ press anyway.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Slow progress recently. Had to have RC send out some new leaf spring center pins since they didn't send the right sized nuts in the kit. My brother took the leaf to the shop and pressed out the old bushings that were seized and put in the new ones for me. Was not really planning on removing the rear axle, but since it was so easy I had to do it. I got it cleaned up and threw down some fresh POR-15. Finally getting to that point where most of the big stuff is out of the way and now it's time to tackle all of the remaining little items before it's drivable.


Got 4 of Rusty's D35 U-Bolts and the threads appear to be too short for the AAL, but I won't know until I piece it all together. When I called them they said it would work. I'll also have to flare some brake lines in the rear since one twisted off when trying to remove. If I'm buying the tool might as well replace all the rusted ones. All the rear lines have been replaced at some point except for the ones to the wheels. Whoever did the job probably didn't care much so it's a little mess back there.





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6 hours ago, Pete M said:

I would start from scratch with the brake lines.  the nickle lines aren't all that much money and you can then know for sure there aren't any other little surprises from the PO.  :L: 


I actually received a couple from Ryan that are OE so I may just use those since they aren't damaged. I've traced the lines from the front to the rear and they appear in good shape. Some new fittings are needed though.

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