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I'm getting ready to install a lift kit and new tires on my 87 MJ. I'm looking at installing the rough country 4.5in lift (linked below), and was wondering if 33s would fit decently. I know it says 32s, but what is the play on it. Also was wondering if anyone has ran this kit and would recommend it or not, and if there are any other parts I would need that I don't know about. Any info helps.

 

4.5in kit: https://www.quadratec.com/p/rough-country/4.5in-suspension-lift-kit-jeep-comanche-mj-62630

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I just installed the same kit and am running 32x11.50x15s. Opt for the extended sway bar extensions, I didn’t and had to order them separate. I also added an extra 3/4 inch spacer to the front. Normal driving I think the 32s are going to be fine. I did a little flexing on a clay mound and was able to get the tire to rub the fender flare a slight amount. Not enough to damage the flare or tire but it definitely rubbed under full flex without the sway bare connected or bump stops installed. 
 

I haven’t installed the rear add a leaf or shackles yet. My truck had an old Trailmaster lift and the rear already sat at about 5inches over stock and the shocks supplied with the kit were about an 1/4 inch to short. So I’ve ordered the shocks for a 5.5inch rear lift and will likely just keep the rear springs as they are with the new shackles.  

D67952FA-D61B-4967-881D-070B75124805.jpeg

6AC9A01B-CA63-4A3A-94F2-467C50E4B9E5.jpeg

1AEE8D24-DEE0-4758-B2AF-46D470D70FA1.jpeg

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On 3/31/2021 at 7:35 PM, Pete M said:

how much trimming are you willing to do?  are you regearing the axles? 

I wasn’t planning on regearing the axles. trimming maybe. I’m just curious what I could get away with with minimal down time and too much complications. If 32 will be good on this kit, then I’ll probably run with that. Will I need to do any regearing?

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On 4/2/2021 at 9:23 AM, Pete M said:

be prepared for your acceleration to suuuuuuuck:( 

Ok, so if it will be that bad, how hard is it to regear the diff? Is it a big project? This is my daily driver, so I want to keep downtime to an absolute minimum 

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If you really want to DIY, you can learn to do it and buy all the specialty tools.  It's not rocket surgery but it's repetitive detail work and you must get it right.

 

Most people pay a pro to do it.  They will supply all the right parts.  You drop off the truck and pick it up all finished.  It's not cheap but it comes with a warranty and they're usually done in a single day.

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On 3/31/2021 at 7:54 PM, CGCWO said:

I just installed the same kit and am running 32x11.50x15s. Opt for the extended sway bar extensions, I didn’t and had to order them separate. I also added an extra 3/4 inch spacer to the front. Normal driving I think the 32s are going to be fine. I did a little flexing on a clay mound and was able to get the tire to rub the fender flare a slight amount. Not enough to damage the flare or tire but it definitely rubbed under full flex without the sway bare connected or bump stops installed. 
 

I haven’t installed the rear add a leaf or shackles yet. My truck had an old Trailmaster lift and the rear already sat at about 5inches over stock and the shocks supplied with the kit were about an 1/4 inch to short. So I’ve ordered the shocks for a 5.5inch rear lift and will likely just keep the rear springs as they are with the new shackles.  

D67952FA-D61B-4967-881D-070B75124805.jpeg

6AC9A01B-CA63-4A3A-94F2-467C50E4B9E5.jpeg

1AEE8D24-DEE0-4758-B2AF-46D470D70FA1.jpeg

I just talked to someone I know and he has 31s on his Cherokee and he told me he would have gone with the 4.5 lift, but he said something about having to get this yoke thing to put on the driveshaft so it wouldn't spin in an oval when the lift is on. You ever heard of something like that?

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36 minutes ago, CptVanGuard said:

I just talked to someone I know and he has 31s on his Cherokee and he told me he would have gone with the 4.5 lift, but he said something about having to get this yoke thing to put on the driveshaft so it wouldn't spin in an oval when the lift is on. You ever heard of something like that?

I’ve not had any issues so far.

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39 minutes ago, CptVanGuard said:

I just talked to someone I know and he has 31s on his Cherokee and he told me he would have gone with the 4.5 lift, but he said something about having to get this yoke thing to put on the driveshaft so it wouldn't spin in an oval when the lift is on. You ever heard of something like that?

 

cherokees have a foot shorter driveshaft and so the angles are more steep than MJs.  BUT, you could still have some minor vibes from the simple change in operating angle.  a well-worn Ujoint doesn't like that. 

 

don't regear a dana 35.  find a better axle (44, 8.25, 8.8) and invest you money into that. :L: 

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20 hours ago, Pete M said:

 

cherokees have a foot shorter driveshaft and so the angles are more steep than MJs.  BUT, you could still have some minor vibes from the simple change in operating angle.  a well-worn Ujoint doesn't like that. 

 

don't regear a dana 35.  find a better axle (44, 8.25, 8.8) and invest you money into that. :L: 

Alright. If I get a Dana 44, will I need to regear it?

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I’ll throw this out there since I don’t see that anyone has mentioned it yet: There is a general consensus on this and pretty much every other non mall-crawler Jeep forum to stay away from Rough Country and Rusty’s (it’s not a rule, but is definitely the prevailing consensus). If you have not yet purchased the Rough Country kit I would recommend you reconsider or at the very least take time to read the real life, long-term experiences from those who run their products and actually use them offroad.

 

The kit you linked in your op has a super short overload spring which is just not the way to generate lift in a spring pack. If you go add a leaf, at least get a full length leaf since it will be a much better ride without fatiguing your other springs in the pack as much. The joints in the lower control arms, lack of extended u bolts, not addressing the track bar, pretzel stick twin tube shocks, it’s just not worth it imho. The only “budget” lift kit components I've had decent success with is Zone off-road. It wasn’t great either but decent. 
 

In a nutshell, there is no cheap way to get 33’s under your rig and maintain stock drive ability without a regear and some good suspension components. Regearing is not super complex but requires a decent investment is some quality tools, some math skills, and a lot of time a patience especially the first go around. And regearing will also require new carriers which in turn begs the question of “should I do lockers?” And the snowball effect is on. Larger tires also need better steering linkage. Your brakes may also need some upgrades. 

On the flip side a mild 2.5” or so lift and some 31’s and your truck will still be relatively happy and probably not start breaking things. 33-35’s are a bit of a tipping point for our rigs where things really start to add up. 
 

If you do decide to go with 33’s and are willing to do the supporting mods then perhaps consider the “metric” 33’s which are a bit narrower. All depends what rim size you run but I’m running 285/70/17’s and the width is about 11.25” which is a bit easier to work with than the 12.5” standard width 33’s.

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6 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

I’ll throw this out there since I don’t see that anyone has mentioned it yet: There is a general consensus on this and pretty much every other non mall-crawler Jeep forum to stay away from Rough Country and Rusty’s (it’s not a rule, but is definitely the prevailing consensus). If you have not yet purchased the Rough Country kit I would recommend you reconsider or at the very least take time to read the real life, long-term experiences from those who run their products and actually use them offroad.

 

The kit you linked in your op has a super short overload spring which is just not the way to generate lift in a spring pack. If you go add a leaf, at least get a full length leaf since it will be a much better ride without fatiguing your other springs in the pack as much. The joints in the lower control arms, lack of extended u bolts, not addressing the track bar, pretzel stick twin tube shocks, it’s just not worth it imho. The only “budget” lift kit components I've had decent success with is Zone off-road. It wasn’t great either but decent. 
 

In a nutshell, there is no cheap way to get 33’s under your rig and maintain stock drive ability without a regear and some good suspension components. Regearing is not super complex but requires a decent investment is some quality tools, some math skills, and a lot of time a patience especially the first go around. And regearing will also require new carriers which in turn begs the question of “should I do lockers?” And the snowball effect is on. Larger tires also need better steering linkage. Your brakes may also need some upgrades. 

On the flip side a mild 2.5” or so lift and some 31’s and your truck will still be relatively happy and probably not start breaking things. 33-35’s are a bit of a tipping point for our rigs where things really start to add up. 
 

If you do decide to go with 33’s and are willing to do the supporting mods then perhaps consider the “metric” 33’s which are a bit narrower. All depends what rim size you run but I’m running 285/70/17’s and the width is about 11.25” which is a bit easier to work with than the 12.5” standard width 33’s.

Good to know. I was pretty set on 32’s I think. Honestly, this thing is my daily, and won’t be seeing any crazy off-road. Mostly mild stuff. I’m definitely not looking for a crazy heavy duty off-roading kit. I just wanted something budget friendly that still maintained some drivability. That’s why I was looking at the rough county kit. Not horribly expensive, but not super capable, and I’m mostly ok with that I think. I don’t have an issue with regearing my diff, but I’ll probably take it somewhere and have it done professionally. 

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7 hours ago, Pete M said:

that depends on what gears you need and what gears are in the axle you find.  :L: 

Even if I keep the Dana 35 and got it regeared, what ratio would be good for the 32 with a 4.5 lift?

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10 hours ago, Pete M said:

don't do that.  the 35 is not worth the money.

 

I would do 4.56.  :L: 

Ok, so if it’s really that much not worth it then, how much roughly would it cost to get an axle and get it fitted? If just seems so much more expensive to get an entirely different axle rather than regearing one? Especially considering I won’t be doing any serious off-roading. 

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I've never paid more than 150 for a junkyard axle.  :D    pennies compared to the 5-6 hundred that regearing will cost.  plus there's the heartbreak when you later break the 35 and the money is gone. :( 

 

now, a shortcut would be to focus on finding an axle with 4.10 gears and then stick with that ratio. :L:   car-part.com might be able to find you one.  search for 97-01 XJ 8.25, or 03-04 KJ, or 95-01 Explorer.  that's how I settled on 4.10s for my 88.  it was a factory option for the old broncos and I found one.  at the time my budget was quite restricted and compromises had to be made.  it's an ok ratio.  get's the job done.  but if I was paying for the whole enchilada, it's the same cost to install 4.10s as it is for 4.56 or 4.88 so I'd go with the deeper ratios. 

 

you can clean off the extra bracketry yourself with a grinder, and then pay a local to burn on the leaf perches for ya. 

 

keep doing research and reading on what others have done. :L:  research if free. :D 

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3 hours ago, Pete M said:

I've never paid more than 150 for a junkyard axle.  :D    pennies compared to the 5-6 hundred that regearing will cost.  plus there's the heartbreak when you later break the 35 and the money is gone. :( 

 

now, a shortcut would be to focus on finding an axle with 4.10 gears and then stick with that ratio. :L:   car-part.com might be able to find you one.  search for 97-01 XJ 8.25, or 03-04 KJ, or 95-01 Explorer.  that's how I settled on 4.10s for my 88.  it was a factory option for the old broncos and I found one.  at the time my budget was quite restricted and compromises had to be made.  it's an ok ratio.  get's the job done.  but if I was paying for the whole enchilada, it's the same cost to install 4.10s as it is for 4.56 or 4.88 so I'd go with the deeper ratios. 

 

you can clean off the extra bracketry yourself with a grinder, and then pay a local to burn on the leaf perches for ya. 

 

keep doing research and reading on what others have done. :L:  research if free. :D 

Alright man. That was honestly a lot cheaper than I thought. I’ll probably roll with that then. Thanks a lot. 

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you've got choices for the front axle.  you can regear what you've got or try and find a 4.10 XJ dana 30.  get the right axle and it'll come with the bigger ujoints. :L:  94-99 I think?  or you can source shafts from a late XJ or TJ and get the same joints in your current axle.

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50 minutes ago, Pete M said:

you've got choices for the front axle.  you can regear what you've got or try and find a 4.10 XJ dana 30.  get the right axle and it'll come with the bigger ujoints. :L:  94-99 I think?  or you can source shafts from a late XJ or TJ and get the same joints in your current axle.

Mine is a rear wheel drive. I have a Dana 44 front that someone gave me. I just haven’t done a full conversion. 

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