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This last week, my crank times have gone up and keep getting worse, now its getting embarrassing. Once running it idles okay, little rougher than usual

 

Also, notice some hesitation from 1500 to 2000 RPM. Above that it clears up.  I do plan to replace the cap and rotor which is due anyhow.  Check plugs and gap/replace if needed. Was thinking maybe the fuel filter, but would expect more issues at higher RPM.  Then I was thinking about the ERG valve, but that usually has a high idle if I recall. I did replace the injectors last spring with the yellow Bosch ones.  Used to start lickity split after that update.

 

Anyone gone down this path have a few pearls of wisdom to share?

 

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11 hours ago, MiNi Beast said:

fuel pressure regulator.

Agreed.  

 

When you go out to buy your rotor and wires, rent a fuel pressure gauge set (most of the parts stores have them for free rent if you're not already aware).  After your tune-up items, hook up that test set. 

 

A bad fuel pressure regulator was the source of my delayed starting a couple years ago.  It was leaking fuel into my vacuum hoses, causing flustering long starts and an obnoxious poof of rich smoke that further elevated my embarrassment.  I feel your parking lot pain, bro.

 

 

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J by CPS numbers do you mean?  Crank Position Sensor?

 

Also, what should the fuel pressure be?

 

11 hours ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

Check CPS numbers, as well as refresh all the main ground points.

 

After that, get a fuel pressure number. Both just by cycling the key and while running.

 

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13 minutes ago, coolwind57 said:

Agreed.  

 

When you go out to buy your rotor and wires, rent a fuel pressure gauge set (most of the parts stores have them for free rent if you're not already aware).  After your tune-up items, hook up that test set. 

 

Thanks for the 411 coolwind, sounds like a good plan of attack. Any tricks to easier starting in the meantime? usual do two burst of 3-5 seconds works but if not a stab on the peddle.

 

 

 

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gots no numbers persay, but what happens when you turn key on fuel is primed in your lines for starting, what happens then is you lose that pressure as you attempt to start as the reg is holding the fuel pressure, leaking back down so when you start it, theres no fuel pressure to inject in block to ignite. think about it while tinkering. do you have a ballast yet for fuel pump? that has been known for issues as well. :dunno:

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4 hours ago, War_Pony89 said:

 

i wouldn't know how to advise on any tricks to easier starting until we found out the culprit.  If it is the fuel pressure regulator like my issue was, then there's no real starting trick--you just gotta get that thing replaced.  During my ordeal, I noticed that it started easier and better when it sat for a while.  This was essentially because unbeknownst to me the fuel that was improperly being sucked into my intake from the leaking regulator was given the time to dry up and not interfere with starting.   

 

Until i figured my problem out, I tried long cranks and I tried short burst cranks.  I tried cursing.   A lot.   I tried prayers and even caressing the dash pad and speaking soft words of adulation.  No significant difference in helping the ol' girl to fire up.

 

We're anxious to hear what you find as you continue to troubleshoot.

 

 

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CPS Testing - directly from Cruiser54.

 

Fuel Pressure- I don't know what numbers you should have with just the key on. Mostly I am interested in how quickly the gauge registers, how high it goes, and how quickly (or if) it leaks down. Then after you start the truck what number does the gauge show? At that point it should be 31 with vacuum to the FPR and 39 without. Then after you shut the truck off, how long does it take before the gauge drops to zero?

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7 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Have you completed Tips 1,3,4, and 5 on my website?

Not yet, hoping to start Friday, lots to T-storms past two days and work has been in the way.

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Update,

 

New distributor and rotor,. Plugs gapped

New fuel filter

oil change

Fuel injector cleaner and new gas

Oh, and two shops I've been too, no fuel pressure gauge to rent. Still working on nailing one down.

 

Further work was delayed by a SNAFU replacing my lower radiator hose. put clamp on too high up and leaked everything at the gas station when fueling up. Like a cow peeing on a flat rock. Did wonders for my mojo. Got near red on the gauge, but kept it under as I limped home. Don't think this caused any damage.

 

Anyway truck running worse than before now, but starts about the same. SMH

I live on a hill and losing power around  1600 rpm. pin the gas then around 3K starts to pick up again.

 

Today I have cleaned Fuel pump Ballast connections and cleaned up the main ground behind the dip-stick.  No noticeable effect, but I did sense some pulsing at idle and it does idle better and smoother, but not well when under power and load.

 

So I'm thinking Fuel Pressure regulator is next?

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, jdog said:

Did you index the dizzy? If you pull the Vac line of is there fuel. Do the auto parts stores rent a pressure tester?

Umm, index the dizzy? Need a little help on meaning. Will head up to another auto parts in a bit to see if they have a fuel  pressure tester I can rent. Fiddling with a couple more grounds in the meantime.

 

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2 hours ago, jdog said:

Did you index the dizzy? If you pull the Vac line of is there fuel. Do the auto parts stores rent a pressure tester?

i gave the little black vacuum lines a good sniff, no smell of gas

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59 minutes ago, War_Pony89 said:

Okay figured out the Indexing the Dizzy is. How long does that take. Thinking I should have kept my old distributor cap.

Huh?

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to do or to take effect?

1 hour ago, War_Pony89 said:

Okay figured out the Indexing the Dizzy is. How long does that take. Thinking I should have kept my old distributor cap.

 

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17 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Huh?

Jdog sent  your page and was looking at 13 index the distributor, which he refereed to as index the dizzy. I just changed my cap and was thinking I should have kept the old cap to cut as I check its position compared to TDC.

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Sorry I should have clarified and called it a distributor.  Can you still get your old cap, if not any salvage yards near you.

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16 hours ago, jdog said:

to do or to take effect?

 

 

To do.  I figured I could prep a cap and get prep work done before hand then tackle finding TDC and adjusting.

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On 3/29/2021 at 1:56 PM, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

CPS Testing - directly from Cruiser54.

 

Fuel Pressure- I don't know what numbers you should have with just the key on. Mostly I am interested in how quickly the gauge registers, how high it goes, and how quickly (or if) it leaks down. Then after you start the truck what number does the gauge show? At that point it should be 31 with vacuum to the FPR and 39 without. Then after you shut the truck off, how long does it take before the gauge drops to zero?

JEEP, i finally secured a fuel pressure gauge. on ignition it barely moved one or two marks. Upon starting stayed between 21 and 24 under throttle.  Upon cutting the ignition, pressure feel immediately So from what I gathered, that is not good. . Regulator seems fine no leaks or gas smell in the vacuum tube. From what I describe does it sound like fuel pump and not vacuum or ground related?

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