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6 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Have you measured your grounds and see if there was any Ωhm resistance from one ground to the next? IE the post to the block? Could have corroded battery cables too.

That's Tip 5 for the most part. Good to verify it though.

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14 hours ago, CGCWO said:

Yep conducted this test and all looked good. 

@cruiser54@Went back to the beginning. Measured for grounds not seeing anything of note. 
 

TPS flat A-B 4.38 x.17 = .74

C-B .06 is the highest I can get adjusting TPS 


I also pulled the coil and refreshed the contacts along with redoing the splice on green with white stripe two to one wires. 
 

Battery cables are both nearly new no signs of corrosion. 
 

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6 minutes ago, MiNi Beast said:

cps. :popcorn:

New one came in this afternoon. Hope to get it put on tomorrow. After I finish sorting out the $kit show the PO made of the trans cooler lines.

697CE473-E6CB-41B5-8969-DD84C539F140.jpeg

911EE5FD-90C5-4831-8573-E55445504D1C.jpeg

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:laugh:  trans line  :twak: 

 

 

cps controls fuel and spark timing under load. however with what po did it could be many things. good luck with the gremlins. keep a list of problems and check them off as they come. its a jeep heep kinda project. :holdwrench:

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7 hours ago, CGCWO said:

TPS flat A-B 4.38 x.17 = .74

C-B .06 is the highest I can get adjusting TPS 

I have no proof yet (I never followed up on it), but someone somewhere on here had low voltage on the TPS C_B measurement. I think he claimed the TPS was improperly installed, if that's possible (something to do with the TPS wiper). I only mention this for you to keep a eye out for if something like this could happen.

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40 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

I have no proof yet (I never followed up on it), but someone somewhere on here had low voltage on the TPS C_B measurement. I think he claimed the TPS was improperly installed, if that's possible (something to do with the TPS wiper). I only mention this for you to keep a eye out for if something like this could happen.

I appreciate the insight. It is installed correctly to my knowledge. We will see how things go once I get the new TPS and the new CPS installed. Hopefully I can get this done over the weekend.

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15 hours ago, Ωhm said:

I have no proof yet (I never followed up on it), but someone somewhere on here had low voltage on the TPS C_B measurement. I think he claimed the TPS was improperly installed, if that's possible (something to do with the TPS wiper). I only mention this for you to keep a eye out for if something like this could happen.

Okay I can admit when I am wrong, turns out I did not reinstall the TPS correctly. I thought I had the arm under the throttle body lever but did not. Will be correcting that today and see what we have. 

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1 hour ago, Ωhm said:

Pictures pls. Before/After.

Pics

 

wrong:

EE2DD907-95D9-475C-9435-CC583531CE60.jpeg.bfeff64a8ef6bf104390113cd7142f61.jpeg

 

Correct:


EE2DD907-95D9-475C-9435-CC583531CE60.jpeg.bfeff64a8ef6bf104390113cd7142f61.jpeg

 

the arm needs to go under the lever on the Throttle body (duh)......

39D010B4-9A51-4769-9B65-1168DAECC433.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Ωhm said:

Pictures pls. Before/After.

(Old TPS and CPS) Output Numbers are still off but not as bad and the rough idle/stumbling/backfire seems to be gone. Idle is high, but hopefully the new CPS and TPS will help with that. 

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2 hours ago, CGCWO said:

Will do!

Thanks for PIC's

 

So it seems like TPS voltage (0.06vdc) never varied from that value regardless of where the Throttle Plate (TP) was. Now TPS wiper arm moves with TP. Both TPS and MAP are the big boy sensors for fuel strategy. Happy this smoothed thing out for ya. :L:

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25 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Thanks for PIC's

 

So it seems like TPS voltage (0.06vdc) never varied from that value regardless of where the Throttle Plate (TP) was. Now TPS wiper arm moves with TP. Both TPS and MAP are the big boy sensors for fuel strategy. Happy this smoothed thing out for ya. :L:

Yes sir. Although after correctly installed I was unable to get a output reading above .34 with a 4.56 reference it should be .744.

 

I was able to drive her around the country block about 1.5 miles. Shifting is still a bit sluggish but that should improve with driving time since I have replaced the trans cooler lines and I am in the middle of first round (drain/refill) with fresh trans fluid. 
 

Almost time to move on to brake overhaul. She kind of stops, it’s a good thing I have country roads to test drive on.

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5 hours ago, CGCWO said:

Although after correctly installed I was unable to get a output reading above .34 with a 4.56 reference it should be .744.

 

Need to check the ground leg. KEY OFF. Measure continuity (Ω's) between the following points:
D2_8 and D1_3.
D2_8 and Battery Negative (B-).
D2_8 and C220_B (disconnected; harness side).

 

862493237_C220TPS3pin.jpg.3d2000d3471924787a773a36c3bf25bf.jpg

 

D1_D2.jpg.6a80c3f7836373dcaeefc968569a8d65.jpg

 

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Well received the REM today. Plugged it in an WOW is all I can say. This little thing puts out a lot of information. 
 

Still trying to decipher what it’s telling me, but based on the initial readings it looks like I have vacuum issues, running lean, possibly a bad O2 sensor. 
 

MAP and TPS readings on the REM are with-in tolerances. 
 

I tried to take some pics of the readings and error codes, but the pics are unreadable. 

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So went through all the vacuum lines again today, found a couple that were heat damaged or just degraded (replaced those) also added the missing bulb behind the bumper. Sourced one of the metal cans from the 86 as a replacement. I am pretty sure I have ever vacuum line connected correctly now and still have a low idle 650 then drop to 450 occasionally. Tomorrow I’ll be digging back into the grounds that are in the wiring harness to double check and also looking for any bad splices from the factory. Made another trip around the neighborhood trans is starting to shift a bit better so another drain/fill with be in order this week. Getting a couple of codes on the REMII; distributor sync, lean from O2 sensor. Still learning the REMII. 

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On 2/25/2021 at 6:49 PM, cruiser54 said:

Uh, no. The ECU does that stuff based on input from sensors.

CPS only tells the ECU what speed the engine is spinning. Just a speed sensor. 

correct. furthermore supporting my cps failure theory as the information used from the cps is used to advance or retard ignition timing and control fuel injector pulses. :thumbsup: 

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10 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Sorta. But the timing and fuel injector pulse widths are determined much more via input from MAP, TPS and oxygen sensor. 

Hope to find out today if the CPS was bad. I am pretty sure from the REMII readings that the O2 sensor is bad or at least faulty. 
 

Muffler had been dented on the bottom and was somewhat bent up. Cut it muffler and tail pipe off Monday to find that e muffler had a hole in the top of it. Being a bike rider I know this isn’t great for back pressure.  Hope to get new muffler and tail pipe installed today also. 
 

Found a used (working throttle body) that I will be swapping with the current one. PO snapped one of the screws that seals the tube from the air filter. Being able to tighten that down should help.

 

 

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Well things never go as planned. Got the exhaust done. Was warming her up a little before attempting the O2 sensor removal. After shutting her down decided to take a good at distributor cap and rotor button. This is where things take turn. PO cross threaded one of the cap screws and sure enough it snapped off. Was going to try and drill it out but after pulling the dizzy I think I’ll replace it along with the cap and wires. 
 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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