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*I havent tightened anything up yet*

I was not the one that removed the components so I had to google how things went together. It appears there are a couple ways of doing this. I added some photos if anyone sees anything that jumps out as wrong please let me know. 

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Interesting to see the drag link on top of the pitman arm. Probably done that way to keep it Parral el with the track bar. You can keep the drag link on top of the knuckle and the tie rod below like you have it in the picture but you need to add some safety washers to that setup. The safety washers will be a cone shaped washer that is about the same size as the heim OD. That way if the heim joint should fail, the steering linkage will still remain in place. I’d also use all new shorter grade 8 bolts with new grade 8 locking nuts and lock washers. Here is a simple diagram about how your combo would be setup:

 

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For the safety misalignment spacers and related parts, look at the components in this kit: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/34STEER-REPLACE.html

 

there are Lin’s to the individual pieces. I would assume your are running 3/4” heims which would use a 5/8” bolt through the pitman arm and knuckles. 5/8 is the largest straight bore the stock knuckles can safely handle. 

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Yep you got it. Those would work for the bottom of the tie rod/knuckles. You’ll need some safety misalignment spacers for the top though since the joint needs to flex quite a bit. I picked up the parts from ruff stuff and they’ve been perfect for 7 years now. Just make sure not to use additional hardware like extra washers or spacers where they aren’t needed. The ones in your pics are a bit cobbled together and the bolt length will put a lot of sheering force on it that could be greatly reduced with an appropriate shorter hardware stack like the diagram above.

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  • 2 weeks later...
8 minutes ago, rylee144 said:

It seems I have messed something up. The inside of the wheel on the passenger side is rubbing on the bolt head. 

What can I do to fix this?

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I am guessing that, when you drilled out the hole in the steering knuckle to remove the taper, the hole is at an angle now.   That's my guess based on one photo.

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Several thoughts:

 

—A socket-head capscrew might give you a bit more clearance. 

—I would seriously consider shortening the misalignment spacers a bit.

—Better than nylock nuts and lock washers would be the all-steel distorted thread locknuts
 

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It was on my mind, I want to do a tie rod flip, but know it won't work with 15" wheels, for just your issue. I shopped for late model 16" wheels flea while. I saw a set of 16" TJ Rubicon Moabs in Snohomish listed on CL for $300. They have less backspace than the Icons I ended up with.

 

Edit: Oops, probably near the same backspace, they are 8" wide wheels as the 7" Icons. Less offset, 12ish mm vs. 31.75mm

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