Jump to content

Troubleshooting "new" Renix 87' Comanche

Recommended Posts

On 12/30/2020 at 8:17 PM, wilto said:

The ground was fine, I brushed it for good measure but no corrosion. 

brushing it doesn't help unless you remove it for the brushing.



The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, XJ-Body-Ground.jpg?resize=300%2C162and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ.

Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture.

Locate the black wire on  the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire.1-fuel pump ground MJ

Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.1-fuel pump ground mj-002Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering.1-fuel pump ground mj-003

At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.1-fuel pump ground mj-004

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, wilto said:


Started the Manche'! Turns out the CPS connection was bad. For some reason after unplugging it and plugging it back in (after several previous tries), the truck started right up. However I am only getting .35AC so I ordered a new one despite it working. Finally figured out how to use a multimeter lol. Thanks for all your help. 



10-pin connector

I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together.

There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.

ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.Ballast Resistor

Link to post
Share on other sites

I followed tips 1-5, and the above. My idle is now better after swapping out all the vacuum hoses, but the engine will die sometimes when coming to a stop with the clutch pressed in. I have cleaned the IAC and the top and sides of the throttle body. Should I just pull the whole thing out and clean the bottom?


Also, my turn signals do not work, but I know that the lights on the dash are working (I have a trailer brake that can activates both when used). Any thoughts? I swapped fuses but no luck. If it is any help, I was able to get the hazard lights working after wiggling the fuse. I am wondering if I might need to replace my fuse box as I have quite a few electrical problems (radio, heater, dome lights, dash lights not working, etc). Some of the fuse connecters tips have receded or snapped at the tip. There is a small drip from the clutch pedal coming down (very minor seepage - I have the Peugeot BA10/5), should I wrap or protect the fuse box somehow? Also, the fuel gauge sometimes works and at other times floats around. 


Also when I went to go refresh the fuel pump ballast resistor, there is this instead:




Throttle body/IAC:



Fuse Box:



Wiring Chaos:



Unnecessary Trailer Brake - I wonder if the wiring for this brake was done poorly and instigated other electrical issues...


Any help? Much appreciated


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, wilto said:

Also when I went to go refresh the fuel pump ballast resistor, there is this instead:




If that's a cube relay being used as a bypass jumper, which could be wired using the NC contacts, then its a very expensive jumper wire.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...