rylee144 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Thanks for the picture. That won't be too bad at all Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiatslug87 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 You may be able to rotate the t-case relative to the trans. I was able to on my AX-15/NP235 transplant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete M Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 1 hour ago, rylee144 said: Thanks for the picture. That won't be too bad at all I still haven't been able to narrow down the precise reason why some guys have to hammer and others don't. but it's not really a huge deal to take the 3lb sledge to the floorboards a bit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Would you say it's easy to mate the two for install or do one at a time? What did you guys do for the exhaust hanger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiatslug87 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 When I replaced mine, a new engine also went in so I had the trans on the engine, installed that then bolted on the t-case. My truck was on jack stands, I don't think I could have mated the trans/t-case combo to the engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 Did I get the bushing in far enough or should it be flush? The last bit is tough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete M Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 that's as far as it goes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 Well that's good I was running out of wooden blocks to pound it in. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Does it appear that I have the fork in there correctly? Making sure I don't have it flopped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
87MJTIM Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 There should be a spring clip that fits over the fork and retaining post to hold the fork in place and keep it from flopping around. Part #4338855. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted March 1 Author Share Posted March 1 Ah like this. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted Wednesday at 06:43 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 06:43 PM Can the flywheel be put on off center? My spline tool looks off center in the spoke thing. Is this ok? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete M Posted Wednesday at 08:22 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 08:22 PM the plastic tool that came with my kit was crooked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Torq_Shep Posted Wednesday at 08:34 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 08:34 PM As long as the trans slips into it you should be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiNi Beast Posted Wednesday at 09:15 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 09:15 PM tool is to hold the clutch disc center the pilot hole while you tighten down the pressure plate. install the trans then the tcase unless you are feeling like superman. ensure engine is at same angle as you install the trans, being easier to slide shaft into hole. if have couple long screw divers you can use them on either side to line up bellhousing and slide it into position. as you may need to turn the output shaft to turn the input shaft to align the splines. then go about tcase install after trans is tightened up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted Wednesday at 09:18 PM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 09:18 PM My recently smashed fingers say I am not superman. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mjeff87 Posted Thursday at 03:01 PM Share Posted Thursday at 03:01 PM It helps to have a helper for this, but I like to wiggle the aligning tool around in tiny circles while tightening down the clutch cover bolts to the flywheel. The best alignment "tool" is actually an old/broken input shaft from a scrap tranny (which I never seem to have handy).....those cheap plastic tools have alot of slop in them, or like Pete says, may even be crooked from the jump. Smear on a *light* coat of grease on the input shaft splines and tip, and it should slide on relatively easily. Remember to keep the trans in the same plane as the engine is, which is usually slightly slanted backwards/down. Getting the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bushing/bearing is the hardest part, but just keep wiggling the trans around and it will eventually just "plop" right in. There should be two hollow alignment dowels on either side of the bellhousing, around 9:00 and 3:00 (bellhousing bolts actually pass through them when you bolt it all up), that you have to make sure slip into the holes on the bellhousing also. If your bellhousing is not 100% flush with the back of the engine, the trans is not fully seated. DON'T try to draw it closed by tightening the bolts....you risk cracking the bellhousing trying that. Also, be careful of the CPS if you have it installed in the top of the bellhousing already. You can damage it very easily on install as the tip of it sits dangerously close to the flywheel. Oh, and don't forget to install the metal dust shield, too. I've forgotten that little thing once or twice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete M Posted Thursday at 03:12 PM Share Posted Thursday at 03:12 PM swapping out the top 2 bellhousing bolts for studs helps immensely with alignment Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted Thursday at 05:18 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 05:18 PM 2 hours ago, mjeff87 said: It helps to have a helper for this, but I like to wiggle the aligning tool around in tiny circles while tightening down the clutch cover bolts to the flywheel. The best alignment "tool" is actually an old/broken input shaft from a scrap tranny (which I never seem to have handy).....those cheap plastic tools have alot of slop in them, or like Pete says, may even be crooked from the jump. Smear on a *light* coat of grease on the input shaft splines and tip, and it should slide on relatively easily. Remember to keep the trans in the same plane as the engine is, which is usually slightly slanted backwards/down. Getting the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bushing/bearing is the hardest part, but just keep wiggling the trans around and it will eventually just "plop" right in. There should be two hollow alignment dowels on either side of the bellhousing, around 9:00 and 3:00 (bellhousing bolts actually pass through them when you bolt it all up), that you have to make sure slip into the holes on the bellhousing also. If your bellhousing is not 100% flush with the back of the engine, the trans is not fully seated. DON'T try to draw it closed by tightening the bolts....you risk cracking the bellhousing trying that. Also, be careful of the CPS if you have it installed in the top of the bellhousing already. You can damage it very easily on install as the tip of it sits dangerously close to the flywheel. Oh, and don't forget to install the metal dust shield, too. I've forgotten that little thing once or twice. Does the dust shield have to go on before the flywheel or can it be slide on after? Asking for a friend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mjeff87 Posted Thursday at 05:49 PM Share Posted Thursday at 05:49 PM It slides up behind the flywheel. It actually hooks onto those hollow alignment dowels I mentioned. The two bottom bolts for it are small 1/2"/13mm bolts that thread into the BH. You don't have to pull the flywheel to remove/install it, but you can't install it once you get the trans all snugged up and bolted back in, otherwise you have to unbolt everything and slide the tranny back a hair to get it back in. Hence, the "don't forget" part. edit: note the very bottom edge of the plate is curved on one side. Make sure that curve is pointing away from the engine, toward the front side of the BH when you put it back in. It should slightly overlap the bottom edge of the BH when installed correctly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted Thursday at 06:04 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 06:04 PM 13 minutes ago, mjeff87 said: It slides up behind the flywheel. It actually hooks onto those hollow alignment dowels I mentioned. The two bottom bolts for it are small 1/2"/13mm bolts that thread into the BH. You don't have to pull the flywheel to remove/install it, but you can't install it once you get the trans all snugged up and bolted back in, otherwise you have to unbolt everything and slide the tranny back a hair to get it back in. Hence, the "don't forget" part. edit: note the very bottom edge of the plate is curved on one side. Make sure that curve is pointing away from the engine, toward the front side of the BH when you put it back in. It should slightly overlap the bottom edge of the BH when installed correctly. I can't seem to get mine on after the flywheel, not enough space to get over the sleeve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mjeff87 Posted Thursday at 06:06 PM Share Posted Thursday at 06:06 PM Those things are just pressed into the BH. You can remove them if you have to, then pound them back in after you get the cover slid back up. Or you can try bending the cover with a screwdriver to get it over them, one at a time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiNi Beast Posted Thursday at 08:31 PM Share Posted Thursday at 08:31 PM is that cover really needed? its added weight. and maybe keeps dirt out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rylee144 Posted Friday at 01:25 AM Author Share Posted Friday at 01:25 AM If a guy loses a bolt for the bellhousing, the ones that go in the sleeve and needs to run to the store what would he buy? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete M Posted Friday at 03:05 AM Share Posted Friday at 03:05 AM is there a matching one elsewhere on the bellhousing that you can steal to take to the store? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.