Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1 hour ago, rylee144 said:

Thanks for the picture. That won't be too bad at all

 

 

I still haven't been able to narrow down the precise reason why some guys have to hammer and others don't.  :dunno:   but it's not really a huge deal to take the 3lb sledge to the floorboards a bit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

When I replaced mine, a new engine also went in so I had the trans on the engine, installed that then bolted on the t-case. My truck was on jack stands, I don't think I could have mated the trans/t-case combo to the engine.

Link to post
Share on other sites

There should be a spring clip that fits over the fork and retaining post to hold the fork in place and keep it from flopping around.  Part #4338855.

Link to post
Share on other sites

tool is to hold the clutch disc center the pilot hole while you tighten down the pressure plate. install the trans then the tcase unless you are feeling like superman. :twak: ensure engine is at same angle as you install the trans, being easier to slide shaft into hole. if have couple long screw divers you can use them on either side to line up bellhousing and slide it into position. as you may need to turn the output shaft to turn the input shaft to align the splines. then go about tcase install after trans is tightened up. 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

It helps to have a helper for this, but I like to wiggle the aligning tool around in tiny circles while tightening down the clutch cover bolts to the flywheel.  The best alignment "tool" is actually an old/broken input shaft from a scrap tranny (which I never seem to have handy).....those cheap plastic tools have alot of slop in them, or like Pete says, may even be crooked from the jump.  Smear on a *light* coat of grease on the input shaft splines and tip, and it should slide on relatively easily.  Remember to keep the trans in the same plane as the engine is, which is usually slightly slanted backwards/down.  Getting the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bushing/bearing is the hardest part, but just keep wiggling the trans around and it will eventually just "plop" right in.  There should be two hollow alignment dowels on either side of the bellhousing, around 9:00 and 3:00 (bellhousing bolts actually pass through them when you bolt it all up), that you have to make sure slip into the holes on the bellhousing also.  If your bellhousing is not 100% flush with the back of the engine, the trans is not fully seated.  DON'T try to draw it closed by tightening the bolts....you risk cracking the bellhousing trying that.  Also, be careful of the CPS if you have it installed in the top of the bellhousing already.  You can damage it very easily on install as the tip of it sits dangerously close to the flywheel.

 

Oh, and don't forget to install the metal dust shield, too.  I've forgotten that little thing once or twice.:laugh:

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, mjeff87 said:

It helps to have a helper for this, but I like to wiggle the aligning tool around in tiny circles while tightening down the clutch cover bolts to the flywheel.  The best alignment "tool" is actually an old/broken input shaft from a scrap tranny (which I never seem to have handy).....those cheap plastic tools have alot of slop in them, or like Pete says, may even be crooked from the jump.  Smear on a *light* coat of grease on the input shaft splines and tip, and it should slide on relatively easily.  Remember to keep the trans in the same plane as the engine is, which is usually slightly slanted backwards/down.  Getting the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bushing/bearing is the hardest part, but just keep wiggling the trans around and it will eventually just "plop" right in.  There should be two hollow alignment dowels on either side of the bellhousing, around 9:00 and 3:00 (bellhousing bolts actually pass through them when you bolt it all up), that you have to make sure slip into the holes on the bellhousing also.  If your bellhousing is not 100% flush with the back of the engine, the trans is not fully seated.  DON'T try to draw it closed by tightening the bolts....you risk cracking the bellhousing trying that.  Also, be careful of the CPS if you have it installed in the top of the bellhousing already.  You can damage it very easily on install as the tip of it sits dangerously close to the flywheel.

 

Oh, and don't forget to install the metal dust shield, too.  I've forgotten that little thing once or twice.:laugh:

Does the dust shield have to go on before the flywheel or can it be slide on after? Asking for a friend.

Link to post
Share on other sites

:laugh:

 

It slides up behind the flywheel.  It actually hooks onto those hollow alignment dowels I mentioned.  The two bottom bolts for it are small 1/2"/13mm bolts that thread into the BH.  You don't have to pull the flywheel to remove/install it, but you can't install it once you get the trans all snugged up and bolted back in, otherwise you have to unbolt everything and slide the tranny back a hair to get it back in.  Hence, the "don't forget" part.

 

edit:  note the very bottom edge of the plate is curved on one side.  Make sure that curve is pointing away from the engine, toward the front side of the BH when you put it back in.  It should slightly overlap the bottom edge of the BH when installed correctly.

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, mjeff87 said:

:laugh:

 

It slides up behind the flywheel.  It actually hooks onto those hollow alignment dowels I mentioned.  The two bottom bolts for it are small 1/2"/13mm bolts that thread into the BH.  You don't have to pull the flywheel to remove/install it, but you can't install it once you get the trans all snugged up and bolted back in, otherwise you have to unbolt everything and slide the tranny back a hair to get it back in.  Hence, the "don't forget" part.

 

edit:  note the very bottom edge of the plate is curved on one side.  Make sure that curve is pointing away from the engine, toward the front side of the BH when you put it back in.  It should slightly overlap the bottom edge of the BH when installed correctly.

I can't seem to get mine on after the flywheel, not enough space to get over the sleeve.

20210304_100339.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...