Jump to content

Recommended Posts

54 minutes ago, rylee144 said:

So the original u bolt mount from the dana 35 worked with the 8.8 u bolts? I was thinking they'd be different. 

We might have needed to ream out the holes a little. I don’t remember 100%. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...

Sometimes I wonder how this truck ran so good. I started removing the transmission today. I pulled the plugs that ran to the tranny and one of the connectors is caked in crud and a wire is barely hanging on, not sure what its application is. The exhaust bolts look like they will be fun to remove. The first two pics came off with the little amount of effort like they were just balanced on there haha. The third photo represents the connector the first couple photos ran to.

20210208_105706.jpg

20210208_105715.jpg

20210208_105722.jpg

20210208_105731.jpg

20210208_105803.jpg

20210208_105843.jpg

20210208_105814.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, rylee144 said:

Thanks. I pulled the whole system. Having a bear of a time getting the top bolts off that hold the transmission on. Not a lot of room

 

my suggestion is to replace the torx bolts with grade 8 studs.  that was they can work as a guide upon re-installation. :L: 

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, rylee144 said:

Letting it hang isnt bad for stuff?

 

I'll look into the studs and how those work and what I'll need. 

 

Thanks!

 

Not "hang" -- "tilt." Support the tailshaft or tranny or transfer case body with a scissor jack or small hydraulic jack.

Link to post
Share on other sites

When I went from a BA10, with an internal slave cyl., to an AX15, with an external slave cyl., I first kept the same clutch disk (CD) and pressure plate (PP).  It shifted fine, but not smooth.  I research on RockAuto the parts numbers.  The CD part number stayed the same throughout the XJ/MJ production.  The PP part number changed when the AX15 switched from internal to external slaves.  That was 93 model year.

 

I would suggest getting a PP based on if you have an internal or external slave.  For me, both worked; the later year's part worked better.

 

Of course, you will need the correct throughout bearing.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Still waiting for the rear main seal to arrive.

 

I wanted to mate the transmission to the transfer case or should I do it once the trans is installed? Also, I'm told the trans is from a wrangler so the t-case is going to be clocked different. Anyone happen to have a photo of where I need to make extra room on the tunnel for fitment? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/10/2020 at 12:22 PM, OldSch88L said:

Also, simple but important tip I've learned the hard way. Don't wait until you're screwed before using PB Blaster and/or heat. Save yourself the headache and soak it in PB Blaster before attempting anything, and when ready to take it appart, heat up the nut before wrenching on it. I've been so many times in a world of hurt that as soon as I see a bolt/nut that looks remotely rusty, I do this now and save a lot of time. Especially on my Jeep, which I'm considering naming Murphy, because like Murphy's Law, everything that can go wrong, will go wrong :laugh::brickwall:

PB is a life saver. I plan out my work on the truck and soak any bolt or nut I plan to remove at least twice before moving on. On suspension and under carriage stuff I start shooting them a week or so before trying to take them apart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...