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I am taking apart the front end of my dana 30 and of course the last one is the hardest. The first picture shows what I'm working on. The second shows the small window to see the nut. The third is a poor picture of another window to the nut. Do I need a special tool to get in there? 

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Someone else may chime in but if the little lock tab is broke or missing the only way I’ve found to grab that nut is to use an offset wrench like this 3fe289c0f4c038d38c2e8852d5cc57ee.jpg
Unofortunaly the last 2 or so trac bars I’ve remove seemed to have the nut frozen or welded to the bolt or something to the point where the nut would not spin so I just took a sawzall and cut the bolt between the mount & the trac bar towards the nut side of the bolt and slid the bolt out

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Sometimes you can jam a screwdriver/chisel/punch between the flat on the nut and the inside part of that "box" to keep the nut from spinning.  Doesn't always work, but it's worth a shot.  Otherwise use an offset box end wrench as suggested.

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I've got a cheapo wrench set from Farm & Fleet and the box end fits in the gap.  I've noticed that some brands do have very large wrenches, Dewalt being one of the worst offenders.  Just run to the store and get the thinnest wrench you can.  Don't start hacking things apart.

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Also, simple but important tip I've learned the hard way. Don't wait until you're screwed before using PB Blaster and/or heat. Save yourself the headache and soak it in PB Blaster before attempting anything, and when ready to take it appart, heat up the nut before wrenching on it. I've been so many times in a world of hurt that as soon as I see a bolt/nut that looks remotely rusty, I do this now and save a lot of time. Especially on my Jeep, which I'm considering naming Murphy, because like Murphy's Law, everything that can go wrong, will go wrong :laugh::brickwall:

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FWIW, Machinist Digest did a comparison on penetrating fluids. The BEST, hands down was 50/50 ATF and acetone. I keep it in a squirt bottle all the time, and use it a couple of days before I start a project underneath. That and heat make Jeep life so much better.

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9 minutes ago, BeatCJ said:

FWIW, Machinist Digest did a comparison on penetrating fluids. The BEST, hands down was 50/50 ATF and acetone. I keep it in a squirt bottle all the time, and use it a couple of days before I start a project underneath. That and heat make Jeep life so much better.

Really? I'll give it a shot since I've got both on hand! However, PB has been very good to me until now unlike WD40...

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Got it done. Thanks! I ended up using a box end wrech and a pry tool to hold it down and it rattled right off. Took far longer than it should have. Next task grinding the xj perches off the 8.8. 

 

Thanks again for the attention 

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6 hours ago, OldSch88L said:

Really? I'll give it a shot since I've got both on hand! However, PB has been very good to me until now unlike WD40...

I've had good luck with PB Blaster, too. But mixing yourself is a lot cheaper, and as much as you need it with a Jeep, I'll take every break I can get. 😉

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I use PB Blaster, Knock'er Loose and Kroil, and I keep about a pint of ATF/acetone in a glass jar.  It does seperate back out over time, but you just have to shake it back up into suspension and it's ready to go.  I've got a couple old timey squirt oil cans with the loooong spouts on them (inherited from my grandfather) that make quick work of getting the mixture into difficult places.

oil can.JPG

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On 10/10/2020 at 5:31 PM, rylee144 said:

Got it done. Thanks! I ended up using a box end wrech and a pry tool to hold it down and it rattled right off. Took far longer than it should have. Next task grinding the xj perches off the 8.8. 

 

 

i bet it doesn't take as long next time! :L: good job. we all have been there, what makes this a great club. :slap::shaking::popcorn:

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