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Anyone here know something about mountain bikes?


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Looking for advice about a bike.

 

Looking to get a bike as I need to get in better shape. I love hiking and exploring so a MTB seems the logical next step. Info about me I'm 6' 265# 31" inseam. Haven't owned a bike since I got my first car 15 years ago.

 

The bike in question is a Felt Dispatch 7/70 on the local craigslist. 18" seemingly stock. $425. It seems like the 18" might be a bit small? Or could I get away with it? Would this bike be able to grow with me as I get in better shape? I can handle doing repairs and upgrades myself if that makes a huge difference.

 

Picture of the bike for reference. 

 

LR8QIBw.jpg

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Felt is a good name brand.  I don't know about that model.

 

Contemporary bike geometry is measured differently than previously.  MTBs are measured differently than road bikes.

 

The disk brakes are nice.  What are the components?  Probably Shimano, but what group set?

 

The bike pictured looks like it is set up for gravel roads and light trails.

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4 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

Felt is a good name brand.  I don't know about that model.

 

Contemporary bike geometry is measured differently than previously.  MTBs are measured differently than road bikes.

 

The disk brakes are nice.  What are the components?  Probably Shimano, but what group set?

 

The bike pictured looks like it is set up for gravel roads and light trails.

You'd probably be able to gleem more info from this stuff than I can:

 

FRAME:

Felt XC, F-Lite aluminum, hydroform, replaceable derailleur hanger, IS disc mounts, 73mm threaded BB, 135mm OLD

FORK:

SR/Suntour XCM-HLO, 100mm travel, preload, hydraulic lockout

HEADSET:

FSA semi-integrated, No.10, 1.125"

STEM:

Devox, ±7° rise, Ø31.8mm with Cr-Mo bolts, XS: 50mm, S/M: 60mm, L/XL: 70mm

HANDLEBAR:

Devox 6061 riser, Ø31.8mm, 15mm rise, 6° sweep, 720mm wide

SHIFTERS:

Shimano Acera M3000, 2x9

FRONT DERAILLEUR:

Shimano Deore M618, dual pull, down swing, 31.8 clamp

REAR DERAILLEUR:

Shimano Acera M3000 9-speed, Shadow, long cage

CRANKSET:

Shimano Altus MT210, 36/22T, XS/SM: 170mm, MD/LG/XL: 175mm

BOTTOM BRACKET:

Shimano sealed cartridge, BSA threaded, square taper axle, 73mm

CHAIN:

Shimano HG93, 9-speed

FREEWHEEL / CASSETTE:

Shimano HG200, 9-speed, 11-36T

BRAKE LEVERS:

Tektro

BRAKE (FRONT):

Tektro M285 hydraulic disc, 180mm rotor

BRAKE (REAR):

Tektro M285 hydraulic disc, 160mm rotor

SADDLE:

Devox performance

SEATPOST:

Devox butted 6061, dual bolt, 15mm offset, Ø27.2, XS/SM: 350mm, MD/LG/XL: 400mm

RIMS / WHEELSET:

Double wall, tubeless compatible, 24mm inner width

 

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I am Roady with Campy components, so I may not be the best for MTB advice.

 

That one looks like a 2019 model.  It would have retailed for $800.

 

45% off a 1 y.o. bike is not too bad.  Is the picture the bike for sale?  The saddle bag and bottle cage are added goodies making the price even more reasonable.

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4 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

I am Roady with Campy components, so I may not be the best for MTB advice.

 

That one looks like a 2019 model.  It would have retailed for $800.

 

45% off a 1 y.o. bike is not too bad.  Is the picture the bike for sale?  The saddle bag and bottle cage are added goodies making the price even more reasonable.

Yes, it is the exact bike in question. The fact it has hydraulic brakes makes it more advanced than my last motorcycle haha.

 

I think my best bet at this point is call em and see if they'll let me test ride and go by feel.

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I took a quick look at the sizing chart for the bike just now.  It seems right for your inseam but small for your height.  I had a road bike that was on the smallish side for me and it wasn't comfortable after riding for awhile.  My mountain bike is just ever so slightly on the large size and is comfortable riding but having to come off it and straddle the cross bar is always just a bit concerning.  I think it depends on what kind of riding you plan on doing.  Smaller side for rough terrain riding.  Larger for flat and road riding. 

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1 hour ago, rokinn said:

I took a quick look at the sizing chart for the bike just now.  It seems right for your inseam but small for your height.  I had a road bike that was on the smallish side for me and it wasn't comfortable after riding for awhile.  My mountain bike is just ever so slightly on the large size and is comfortable riding but having to come off it and straddle the cross bar is always just a bit concerning.  I think it depends on what kind of riding you plan on doing.  Smaller side for rough terrain riding.  Larger for flat and road riding. 

Thanks for the insight. I'm more concerned with leg room than height. From my motorcycle and dirtbike experiences I'd rather have something difficult to straddle than cramming my knees in my chest. But thats different than a pedal bike

 

I'll be taking it up into mountains on the forest service roads mainly and when I get good enough, in shape enough, or brave enough there's a good bit of real technical riding in the parks up there. So maybe a tad on the smaller side might help?

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I started mountain biking last year and got hooked, most sizing I see for bikes tho is S M L and XL so I am not sure what 18" relates too but, I'm 6'2" on a L sized full suspension and it's alright, I'll go XL for my next bike though. 

For $425 that's as solid entry level to see if you like it or not

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I am about the same size as you and I went for the "Schwinn biggity" with a Schwinn air ride seat.

I like the fat tires for trail riding and so far is a beast in both sand and snow.

 

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81JrJ8BplmL._AC_SX425_.jpg

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Well, I can not get in contact with the person that has the Felt for sale. So the hunt shall continue. I might just go to a local shop and tell them how much I'm willing to spend and see what they offer me.

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I am in Canada......Here they are available at Walmart and a store called Canadian Tire (and else were I would imagine)

I paid $400 Canadian for the Bike and $60 for the seat

So $345 American before Taxes

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I’m around your size/weight. 6’2/260, 32” inseam. I’d recommend looking into the manufacturer’s recommended max weight on the bike. It’s not as big a deal on a hardtail, but it really does factor with suspension. I found that a lot of bikes top out around 250lbs, and bottoming out suspension when you’re not expecting it sucks. 
I’m also mostly riding a fat bike. Older Kona Wo, garage sale find. XL frame, 21”. I tried a couple large frame bikes (~19”) and they’re rideable, but the 21” is more comfortable for me. It’s a bit of a knee vs handlebar thing. I’d definitely take an 18” for a spin before buying, try some tighter manoeuvres to make sure you’ve got clearance.

I’ve also got a full-suspension 29er that has roughly the same dimensions as the Wo, but I mostly ride it around town any more. Super confortable ride that’s great on mixed surfaces, but even with the preload on the shock dialed all the way up it still will bottom out under me out on the trails, and frequently I’ll lose purchase on the pedals when it happens. Bottoming the forks is also pretty brutal on the wrists, although it doesn’t happen as often. The Wo also is more responsive in general, doesn’t need the suspension to catch up to my inputs before acting on them.


I also would advise getting some riding tips from someone who knows what they’re doing if you’re only just getting into more serious biking. One of my bad habits lead to six stitches in my chin on Sunday night, while riding on asphalt. 

 

Even if a shop doesn’t have something inside your budget, they’ll still have good advice for looking for a bike that fits you, and hopefully they’d let you get a little familiar with different types of bikes, different size frames and tires, etc, which should at least help in your search for something used. This is assuming we’re talking an actual bike shop... the kid at Walmart is unlikely to know much more about the bikes than where they are in the store. I’d also steer clear of the Walmart, etc., bikes in general. I’ve been through a couple, none of them wanted to live much longer than a season. You’ll be much happier with a better brand used bike around the same price point. Not to be elitist, but my Kona cost me roughly what YXMJ’s Schwinn cost him, and I’ve put well over 500km on it so far with a few hard crashes, still rides the same as when I got it. The one Schwinn I got at Canadian tire retailed at $750 (I got it on sale for half-price) and only lasted about 30km of trails before I got sick of taking it back for free warranty repairs. I’m glad he’s had better luck with his.

 

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12 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

I’m around your size/weight. 6’2/260, 32” inseam. I’d recommend looking into the manufacturer’s recommended max weight on the bike. It’s not as big a deal on a hardtail, but it really does factor with suspension. I found that a lot of bikes top out around 250lbs, and bottoming out suspension when you’re not expecting it sucks. 
I’m also mostly riding a fat bike. Older Kona Wo, garage sale find. XL frame, 21”. I tried a couple large frame bikes (~19”) and they’re rideable, but the 21” is more comfortable for me. It’s a bit of a knee vs handlebar thing. I’d definitely take an 18” for a spin before buying, try some tighter manoeuvres to make sure you’ve got clearance.

I’ve also got a full-suspension 29er that has roughly the same dimensions as the Wo, but I mostly ride it around town any more. Super confortable ride that’s great on mixed surfaces, but even with the preload on the shock dialed all the way up it still will bottom out under me out on the trails, and frequently I’ll lose purchase on the pedals when it happens. Bottoming the forks is also pretty brutal on the wrists, although it doesn’t happen as often. The Wo also is more responsive in general, doesn’t need the suspension to catch up to my inputs before acting on them.


I also would advise getting some riding tips from someone who knows what they’re doing if you’re only just getting into more serious biking. One of my bad habits lead to six stitches in my chin on Sunday night, while riding on asphalt. 

 

Even if a shop doesn’t have something inside your budget, they’ll still have good advice for looking for a bike that fits you, and hopefully they’d let you get a little familiar with different types of bikes, different size frames and tires, etc, which should at least help in your search for something used. This is assuming we’re talking an actual bike shop... the kid at Walmart is unlikely to know much more about the bikes than where they are in the store. I’d also steer clear of the Walmart, etc., bikes in general. I’ve been through a couple, none of them wanted to live much longer than a season. You’ll be much happier with a better brand used bike around the same price point. Not to be elitist, but my Kona cost me roughly what YXMJ’s Schwinn cost him, and I’ve put well over 500km on it so far with a few hard crashes, still rides the same as when I got it. The one Schwinn I got at Canadian tire retailed at $750 (I got it on sale for half-price) and only lasted about 30km of trails before I got sick of taking it back for free warranty repairs. I’m glad he’s had better luck with his.

 

Looking at bikes you are correct about the weight limits. I'm seeing a lot of "300 combined #'s rider, bike and gear" and I'd be awful close with that. We have a hipster part in the closest city that has a few bike shop/beer joint places and one particular shop I'm gonna call this morning that does Marin/Specialized/Ibis/Santa Cruz that a few people have recommended me go to.

 

Luckily I still have 90% of my dirt bike gear, so I can cross over that gear until I have the money for gear that doesn't need to be as heavy. So that'll save me money up front.

 

What was the bad habit?

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Leaning my body into turns instead of shifting my weight out to balance the bike. I caught a small patch of gravel and slid back onto clean pavement, but didn’t have enough weight over the front tire at that point to catch and correct the slide. Laid the bike over  and went face first into the asphalt. 
I’m usually better about that sort of thing when I’m on a trail, but everything kinda goes out the window when I’m riding on pavement. 

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20 minutes ago, gogmorgo said:

Leaning my body into turns instead of shifting my weight out to balance the bike. I caught a small patch of gravel and slid back onto clean pavement, but didn’t have enough weight over the front tire at that point to catch and correct the slide. Laid the bike over  and went face first into the asphalt. 
I’m usually better about that sort of thing when I’m on a trail, but everything kinda goes out the window when I’m riding on pavement. 

I did something sort of similar a few years ago on my old Honda CB500. I needed to make a u turn and forgot to check the ground I was turning on. I leaned into the turn going left and halfway through my front hit a patch of dirt/sand on the middle lines. The whole bike came out from under me and then bounced and threw me over the right side. A 500lbs bike does not feel good when it slams solely on your thigh. Had a baseball sized hematoma on my leg for about 4 months.

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weight considerations are definitely important.  Years ago my cousin decided he was sick of being huge (300#) and bought himself a super cheap used bike.  Then one day he stripped the teeth right off one of the gears and messed up his leg when it happened.  :(  But the bike lasted long enough to get him hooked and so he spent way more coin on its replacement and still has it to this day. :L:  (he ended up losing 140 pounds between riding to work every day and cutting back on his eating/drinking)

 

My mountain bike is ~20 years old now.  all this newfangled technology and comfortable ride is foreign to me.  :laugh:

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^^^ that’s exactly what went wrong with my Schwinn. I blew one of the sprockets apart halfway around the block on my first ride. That was the first trip back for warranty, they changed out the whole rear cassette. Second trip out I was 5km down the trail and lost a bunch of teeth. That was cassette #2, and a new chain. I think it was ride #5 when I lost sprocket teeth again, and the brakes misadjusted themselves to the point of not doing anything. I got a shifter for a 4-speed from the bike pile at the dump and just quit using the three smallest sprockets with not many teeth. The brake adjustments never lasted more than 5-10k so I mostly quit using them. I still rode it most of the summer but it was just a constant game of screwing with things to make it work properly. 
But yes, hooked. That bike was still better than the supercycle it replaced from the season before.

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Well I called pretty much every local shop in a 25 mile radius and none of them have stock priced under $1500, and I'm not dropping that on something I might not be crazy about. I've been looking at FB and CL and everything that would work for me is either way too pricey even used or it's sold within the hour. So the hunt will continue.

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You might find that. There’s lots of people trying to get outside and active now thanks to Covid. I was in one of the local shops a month or so back and overheard a guy saying he was surprised we still had inventory in town because the city was close to sold out already. 

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I'll share a story.  I went to Scheels a few years back with my youngest sister, when she was bike shopping.  The salesman was nice, and helpful.  When she made her choice I pointed out that it didn't have a kickstand.  The salesman's nose went up in the air, he did a little sniff, and said "REAL bikes don't have kick stands".  My yuppy sister got her $700. plus dollar bike, and I'm still riding my old Jeep branded bike from Walmart.  The bike she bought was nice for sure, but I'm pretty sure that mine gets more use! (And when I park it, I have a kick stand.)

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Meh. I wasn’t super excited about the lack of kickstand at first, but I got over it. If I leave my bike unattended, it’s locked to something, not free standing. Out on the trail, 99% of the time the ground isn’t stable or level enough for a kickstand. It’s just more weight to haul around and something else to catch on things. My bike is for riding, not sitting parked.

But I guess if it’s that critical to you, spend the $25 and get one. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

IMG_20200809_080229.jpg.6a59cb8c67883e46f2ee4d8a82a3f6e1.jpg

 

 

Well, two weeks ago I ended up going to a LBS right by my work and picking up this Specialized Rockhopper 29. It was a little more than I really wanted to spend, but a few things sold me:

 

Lifetime frame warranty

2 year warranty on everything else

Specialized said the frame and all the components would be fine jumping around with my weight on it

The shop included 2 free tune-ups, 30-90 days and 1 year

If I have any issues the shop is less than 10 minutes from work

 

Have only put maybe 20 miles on it, but this thing rips. 

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