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1991 Eliminator Resto-Mod


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Yanked out the old rear window today. Then when through the painstaking process of straightening the opening around the window and eliminating all rust spots. All down to bare metal followed by a coat of acid primer and 2 coats of regular primer. I also swam sealed all the seams in the frame. Waiting for everything to cure overnight then will prep and pint tomorrow. Spot painting is so much more work than panel painting. Will be fading in the clear coat into the original using a fast reducer. Trial fit the new cr Laurence window and it fits extremely well. Will be a perfect fit when I’m done with it. This window is screwed in from the inside and uses butyl tape to seal it. Not sure why everyone says it doesn’t sit flat. The window confirms very well and the top has a built in curve. 

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Finished the filler to get every spot perfect (Evercoat RAGE). Sanded with 320  then second skim of filler then 320, sealer, primer then 400 grit by hand. 3 coats of base then 3 coats of mixed clear/base. Moved tape line back 1” then hit it with mixed clear. Final pass was with acetone to “melt” the cots together followed by lots of air. It’s a tough technique but has great results. I do hate doing this all outdoors though. Letting everything cure overnight then will install rear window tomorrow. Also going to polish the cargo light inside and out and refinish it. 

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Every drop of rust was sanded to bare metal and any pitting was acid treated then acid primed. Followed by a touch of rage filler to fill any pinholes. Also replaced all the seam sealer in the groves with 3m dripcheck sealer.

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8 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

I love the rage fillers. I used both Extreme and Ultra on my

truck. 

Yeah they are a great filler. Only problem I have is the set time is too short. I have about 120 seconds in our weather. I’ve tried reducing the hardener significantly but it either doesn’t set or sets too fast. Just learned to work fast and have everything ready with the filler. 

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Well I can verify that the CR Laurence sits perfectly flush if you take your time and set it up per the instructions. It does not urethane in as the original did. It comes with some nice butyl tape. You need to make sure your pinch seam is nice and straight also. I used 2 passes of butyl tape for a nice tight fit. You then install 6 screws from inside the cab through the pinch seam and into the new window frame. Holds awesome. Completely sealed even from a power washer and has a much larger viewing area than oem. Very pleased

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On 2/14/2021 at 9:06 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

Well I can verify that the CR Laurence sits perfectly flush if you take your time and set it up per the instructions. It does not urethane in as the original did. It comes with some nice butyl tape. You need to make sure your pinch seam is nice and straight also. I used 2 passes of butyl tape for a nice tight fit. You then install 6 screws from inside the cab through the pinch seam and into the new window frame. Holds awesome. Completely sealed even from a power washer and has a much larger viewing area than oem. Very pleased

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You did good. However much I tried I couldn't get mine to fit that good. That was on a sandblasted shell. I will have to have you swing by and do your magic on mine!!

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10 minutes ago, Limeyjeeper said:

You did good. However much I tried I couldn't get mine to fit that good. That was on a sandblasted shell. I will have to have you swing by and do your magic on mine!!

That’s a long ways a way to get a window to fit right... :laugh2:

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1 hour ago, Limeyjeeper said:

You did good. However much I tried I couldn't get mine to fit that good. That was on a sandblasted shell. I will have to have you swing by and do your magic on mine!!

Yep that’s a bit of a drive lol. Otherwise I’d be happy to! 

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10 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Installed new 91 correct dash clock that I polished a cleaned up bit by bit. I really like how the clock turns on.

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My favorite of the different clocks because it matches the five section left hand piece. :L:

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So the build direction is going towards a “sleeper” setup lol. Debating whether to up the power while staying NA or going FI. I’m running an estimated 240-250hp  right now. Also been eyeing a custom paddle shifter setup. I’d like to give any new truck a run for their money I suppose. It’s always tricky to integrate new tech while paying homage to the original. Fuel management becomes quite an ordeal also. If I stay NA I’ll keep it on the stock sbec fuel system. If I go FI I’m not to keen on the piggy back controllers so I’d much prefer to go stand alone. 

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That's too bad. It's horror stories like these that are my reasoning for having older vehicles that are easier to work on. I just don't trust any shop to do any work on my vehicles. Looks like its going to be a PITA to remove too. What are you going to put back in it? I really like the Raptor liner in my truck.

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9 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

That's too bad. It's horror stories like these that are my reasoning for having older vehicles that are easier to work on. I just don't trust any shop to do any work on my vehicles. Looks like its going to be a PITA to remove too. What are you going to put back in it? I really like the Raptor liner in my truck.

The only option I have here is Rhino liner or Hippo Liner from dominion sure seal. Since the rhino liner is done by a shop I’m going with the dominion sure seal and will roll it on (after some good prep lol). The dominion sure seal is some very good stuff. Never saw it much stateside but it’s a Canadian company and is very similar to Monstaliner. No rubber crumb in it either. I was able to remove all the liner except for the bed caps. Still debating what to do with those but will probably remove them and do it right. 
 

 

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