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Bob89manche

Won’t stop running/battery always powering system

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Looking closer at C103 photo, wire colors don't line up. Seem to be C105 (Engine to Alternator), same as C103. Buried under that connector in photo is there another 6 pin connector?

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On 1/11/2020 at 8:58 PM, Warren Mohler said:

Did you do anything to your truck right before this started?

Changed the oil, drive to a buddies, came home. No problem. Next morning parked at work and it wouldn’t shut off

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On 1/11/2020 at 9:13 PM, Ωhm said:

Looking closer at C103 photo, wire colors don't line up. Seem to be C105 (Engine to Alternator), same as C103. Buried under that connector in photo is there another 6 pin connector?

I have ones that are similar in shape and configuration, but not with each of the 6 ports with a wire. (Some with 3, some with 4)

1E01B72F-4455-46F7-A1B1-CAB01340FF63.jpeg

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Major blunder on my part, not paying attention to wire colors, wasted both time and energy. That's C103.

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22 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Major blunder on my part, not paying attention to wire colors, wasted both time and energy. That's C103.

Dude, nice catch! Now with the real c103 DC’d I’ve got infinite resistance showing on the DMM. 

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Engine Control Harness shows good. Engine Harness now carries the problem. One good things is the RED wire should be short and only run to the Starter Relay (Fusible Link G (ORN)).

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2 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Engine Control Harness shows good. Engine Harness now carries the problem. One good things is the RED wire should be short and only run to the Starter Relay (Fusible Link G (ORN)).

Right. Previously I have disconnected fuse links from the starter relay to try and isolate the problem. I found that dc’ing the dual green/orange link to individual red wires and green link split to 2 red wires stops the flow of power. Too dark to mess with tonight, but will start looking at/replacing fuse link G tomorrow

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Its your YELLOW wire (C103_E) touching that Fuse Link circuit.

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Need to take the Ignition Switch out of the picture. As of now, we should have continuity on the Engine Harness side between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL). Disconnect the IGN SW connectors. Does continuity still exist between C103_B and C103_E?

2104487053_C267_C268IgnitionSwitch.jpg.8ae369ec661da5662172b0c1b9cc6a9e.jpg

 

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7 hours ago, Ωhm said:

Need to take the Ignition Switch out of the picture. As of now, we should have continuity on the Engine Harness side between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL). Disconnect the IGN SW connectors. Does continuity still exist between C103_B and C103_E?

2104487053_C267_C268IgnitionSwitch.jpg.8ae369ec661da5662172b0c1b9cc6a9e.jpg

 

Help me out with the terminology “engine harness side”. I’m taking it as the side of c103 that leads to the majority of the engine wiring, passing behind the radiator and on to the other side of the engine bay as opposed to the side that leads to the diagnostic ports. Am I correct in this interpretation?

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13 minutes ago, Bob89manche said:

Help me out with the terminology “engine harness side”. I’m taking it as the side of c103 that leads to the majority of the engine wiring, passing behind the radiator and on to the other side of the engine bay as opposed to the side that leads to the diagnostic ports. Am I correct in this interpretation?

Yes

1276288802_EngineHarness.jpg.e38baaa81d462857c029b87339c7db36.jpg

1110051551_EngineHarness_1.jpg.db5377a58cfb0f21b7833a82148725e2.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, Ωhm said:

Yes

1276288802_EngineHarness.jpg.e38baaa81d462857c029b87339c7db36.jpg

1110051551_EngineHarness_1.jpg.db5377a58cfb0f21b7833a82148725e2.jpg

 

Interesting. Reading infinite resistance constantly From that connection. No change when ignition switch is removed

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8 minutes ago, Bob89manche said:

I’ve already replaced the ign switch

This has got to be the source of your problem. 

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1 minute ago, Bob89manche said:

I’ve already replaced the ign switch

Seen that in the first post. Still can buy new junk. When tracing wires all components (internal shorts) should be removed.

 

7 minutes ago, Bob89manche said:

Interesting. Reading infinite resistance constantly From that connection. No change when ignition switch is removed

A lot of wire wiggling going on near C103. Keep DVOM connected between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL) and wiggle wires, look for continuity. Inspect wires. Follow YEL.

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47 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Still can buy new junk

Please forgive me for butting in, seems like just about everything has been covered. This has happened 3 times to me in last 10 years, first 2 times could not remove key, last time was able to remove key with engine running, all times it was JUNK lock cylinders. I am on #4 in 20 years. Does it keep running if ign. switch is removed from column and worked by hand? Could it be the rack in column is "out of time"

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50 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Seen that in the first post. Still can buy new junk. When tracing wires all components (internal shorts) should be removed.

 

A lot of wire wiggling going on near C103. Keep DVOM connected between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL) and wiggle wires, look for continuity. Inspect wires. Follow YEL.

Did the wiggle with ign switch unplugged and also plugged in. No change. Infinite resistance. Followed yellow down to Passenger side headlight. Might need to check the long run in front of radiator 

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4 minutes ago, Warren Mohler said:

Please forgive me for butting in, seems like just about everything has been covered. This has happened 3 times to me in last 10 years, first 2 times could not remove key, last time was able to remove key with engine running, all times it was JUNK lock cylinders. I am on #4 in 20 years. Does it keep running if ign. switch is removed from column and worked by hand? Could it be the rack in column is "out of time"

I’ve been wondering if my lock cylinder connection to the arm that interacts with the ign switch might be faulty. It just seems like more of an electro issue than mechanical at this point

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The real test now is to reconnect all disconnected connectors and try it again. See if engine shuts off using the key.

 

9 minutes ago, Warren Mohler said:

Could it be the rack in column is "out of time"

There is some science to Ignition Switch replacement. I looked for DIY but couldn't find anything.

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Yeh this is tough not being there, switches are a bugger and need to be adjusted, if I remember right they slide on column. I would hook EVERYTHING back up and start over. Work switch by hand off of column to see what happens. I will say I always HATED working on these columns but seemed to get every job that came into shop TS switch,wiper, cruise, horn, loose tilt bolts not much fun!

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I went back through the ignition switch. And cylinder. Both have been replaced within the month. Have the lock cylinder all the way off and the switch all the way in the same direction. Popped the lever hook in the switch, made sure the lever arm is taught and tightened down the bolts and hibeam assembly on top. All tight and lined up. It just screams electrical to me. As soon as the pos terminal is connected I’ve got power to all relays and ignition. The only thing the lock cylinder changes is the radio and cigarette lighter power supply at this point 

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I didn’t have the batter connected when I messed with the ign switch, but even if it’s completely unplugged the ign system still is energized when battery is connected

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18 minutes ago, Bob89manche said:

It just screams electrical to me.

Remove both battery cables. Remove all Fuse Links from the starter relay and separate each one. Take continuity between each Link and D2_4. Let's see if we can determine which Link is shorted to Ign Sw feed (I1).

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29 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Remove both battery cables. Remove all Fuse Links from the starter relay and separate each one. Take continuity between each Link and D2_4. Let's see if we can determine which Link is shorted to Ign Sw feed (I1).

This is actually how I started this. With less direction and record keeping, obviously. Will get back with results. Thanks again everyone

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