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My MJ currently has one inch wheel spacers on the front hubs, which were put on sometime in its past.

 

My current tires only need no more than 1/2" of spacer, but with that much added, I would need longer lug studs.   The only problem is that I don't see how to install any longer studs into the OEM type hub bearing assemblies.

 

does anyone have any suggestions, or do I have to live with the oversized one inch spacers?

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I don't understand the question. If you're looking to reduce the spacer from one inch to a half inch, why would you need longer studs?

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Sounds like the 1" had built in hub bolts and the 1/2" is one that floats between the wheel and hub?  

 

Can you find 1/2" spacers that have the integrated bolts?  I've always heard bad things about the free-floating style of spacer.

 

Edit: after looking at eBay it looks like the 1" is the smallest you can get with built in studs.

Screenshot_20190304-001025.png

Screenshot_20190304-001013.png

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Dzimm found photos of my situation.  The spacers that are installed now have the integral lug studs, and are 1 inch thick, like the first picture.  

 

What I want to do is to go to something like what he shows in the second picture, where I can use the existing lug studs (lengthened as needed).

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7 minutes ago, AZJeff said:

Dzimm found photos of my situation.  The spacers that are installed now have the integral lug studs, and are 1 inch thick, like the first picture.  

 

What I want to do is to go to something like what he shows in the second picture, where I can use the existing lug studs (lengthened as needed).

Are yours hub-centric?

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1 hour ago, Jeep Driver said:

Are yours hub-centric?

I assume you mean are my existing 1 inch spacers hub-centric, and the answer is yes, the center on the hub portion that extends above the plane onto which the wheel normally seats.

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10 hours ago, AZJeff said:

I assume you mean are my existing 1 inch spacers hub-centric, and the answer is yes, the center on the hub portion that extends above the plane onto which the wheel normally seats.

If it were me, I have considered this myself. 

 

Find a COMPETENT machinist, have him turn down the backside of the spacer, have him cut a new recess for the hub, you should be able to retain your existing hub extension and remain hub-centric. 

 

You'll need new studs 1/2 inch longer. You'll need a press and a fixture/anvil. 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Jeep Driver said:

If it were me, I have considered this myself. 

 

Find a COMPETENT machinist, have him turn down the backside of the spacer, have him cut a new recess for the hub, you should be able to retain your existing hub extension and remain hub-centric. 

 

You'll need new studs 1/2 inch longer. You'll need a press and a fixture/anvil. 

 

 

I was wondering about the idea of cutting (via an end mill) a clearance cut on the "fixed" portion of the hub in one location that would allow the old studs to be pressed out, and new longer studs pressed in.

 

So you think that is feasible without trashing the hub integrity, huh?

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23 minutes ago, AZJeff said:

I was wondering about the idea of cutting (via an end mill) a clearance cut on the "fixed" portion of the hub in one location that would allow the old studs to be pressed out, and new longer studs pressed in.

 

So you think that is feasible without trashing the hub integrity, huh?

Sure, I think so.

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The actual vertical load imposed on the hub assembly "should" be carrried by the shoulder of the hub that fits inside the bore of the steering knuckle.    The bolts that attached the hub to the knuckle are primarily there to keep that shoulder inside the bore, and "probably" don't carry much of the load of the vehicle down into the front wheel.

 

That means a clearance cut made in the edge of the hub (away from the bolting tabs) probably won't affect the integrity of the hub.   I have attached a sketch of what I am thinking of doing, and the dark semi-circular line on the edge of the hub represents the cut I would make.

 

Anyone want to comment about this idea?

Hub.pdf

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This may be just me, but you are trying to narrow the track width because the new tires won’t rub where the old tires rubbed. I personally would just leave the 1” spacers on the truck. It’s not like you have .5” spacers and are trying to get 1” spacers so you can clear tires. Everything clears right now and everything works, so why not just leave them? I personally see extra clearance and wider track width advantageous for greater stability and since tires are rubber they will flex so even if they clear while sitting still and on level ground they might could rub in strange circumstances. I know my friends only rub when full lock backing up, but full lock forward clears and full lock sitting still clears.


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7 hours ago, SatiricalHen said:

This may be just me, but you are trying to narrow the track width because the new tires won’t rub where the old tires rubbed. I personally would just leave the 1” spacers on the truck. It’s not like you have .5” spacers and are trying to get 1” spacers so you can clear tires. Everything clears right now and everything works, so why not just leave them? I personally see extra clearance and wider track width advantageous for greater stability and since tires are rubber they will flex so even if they clear while sitting still and on level ground they might could rub in strange circumstances. I know my friends only rub when full lock backing up, but full lock forward clears and full lock sitting still clears.


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You are probably right.  I am being anal retentive about wanting to get the caster angles back to as close to OEM as possible, and smaller spacers help me do that.

 

i could leave it as is, and I can "live" with it.  I guess I am sweating the small stuff here.

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