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Anyone know of any websites that has a good price on wheels? Looking for something cheaper just suck of the aluminum look.  Also have 31x10.50 and was wondering what size width to get 

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You're in the US?

 

Search Summit Racing for AR 767 or Crager Soft 8.  Probably the cheapest decent steel wheels you can get.  Pro Comp also can be had cheap, but I'm not sure Summit is the best dealer for them, and for some reason their load ratings always seem to be pretty low. :confused:

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aftermarket steel rims will push the tires out more than stock rims so you'll need to be careful about that backspacing number if you're stock height.  :L: 

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2 hours ago, Pete M said:

aftermarket steel rims will push the tires out more than stock rims so you'll need to be careful about that backspacing number if you're stock height.  :L: 

Yeah the ones I’m looking at have backspacing of 3.75 

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2 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

You're in the US?

 

Search Summit Racing for AR 767 or Crager Soft 8.  Probably the cheapest decent steel wheels you can get.  Pro Comp also can be had cheap, but I'm not sure Summit is the best dealer for them, and for some reason their load ratings always seem to be pretty low. :confused:

Okay I’ll take a look at them, I know sometimes I can get like 15% off on 4wheeldrive.com depending if they’re offering it so 

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1 hour ago, mancheflo said:

Okay I’ll take a look at them, I know sometimes I can get like 15% off on 4wheeldrive.com depending if they’re offering it so 

 

Try Amazon too.  I got a set of Procomps for about 50% off.

 

Like Pete said, make sure the backspacing will work.  Pushing the tires out often makes them interfere with the fenders, unless they're been cut or you have lift.

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6 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

I'd get those black powdercoated before I'd put steel wheels on, but that's just me.

I’ll have to look into that too

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1 minute ago, mancheflo said:

I’ll have to look into that too

 

They're better quality than what you will get with a 'cheap' steel wheel.  I can get a set done for about $250 here, so I'd expect in the US it could be done for about $150 at most.

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On 1/13/2019 at 1:40 PM, Pete M said:

aftermarket steel rims will push the tires out more than stock rims so you'll need to be careful about that backspacing number if you're stock height.  :L: 

Would a backspacing of 3.75 or 4.5 be better 

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4.5 is better for keeping the tires out of the fenders.  what do you have now? 

 

 

backspace.gif

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7 hours ago, Pete M said:

4.5 is better for keeping the tires out of the fenders.  what do you have now? 

 

 

backspace.gif

I honestly don’t know, the front sticks out pretty far, I got these wheels on a trade and the guy didn’t have much info on them 

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7 hours ago, Pete M said:

4.5 is better for keeping the tires out of the fenders.  what do you have now? 

 

 

backspace.gif

So If I don’t want the tires to stick out too far then go with 4.5?

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yes.  the higher the backspace number, the more the tire tucks in under the flares.  the lower the number, the more they stick out (and the bigger the scrub radius and the more the touch the flares when turning)

 

if you pull one off, you can measure and know for sure. :L:  

 

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There is a reason aluminum wheels are considered an upgrade over steel wheels, and it's not (only) the appearance.

 

Aluminum wheels are much lighter than steel wheels.  This reduces unsprung weight and can give better handling, braking, and acceleration.  Plus, they are much easier to handle when rotating your tires!  I rotated the tires on my XJ (factory aluminum) and MJ (factory steel) the same day and was surprised at how much heavier the steel rims are.

 

Aluminum also doesn't rust and is less likely to bend (although they can crack instead).  I've bent steel wheels on two occasions (hint: don't get airborne or ram snow banks).

 

Some will say a heavy steel wheel can help off road by "pulling" the suspension down during extreme articulation so it can contact the ground and get traction.  I think that is really reaching for a "benefit" of steel wheels.

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aluminum may not rust, but salt-belt guys will tell you that it still corrodes. :(  it gets under the protective clearcoat and goes to town on it.  eventually it'll get to the bead area and cause slow leaks.  But, just like with steel, you can easily slow the progress with washing.  thorough washing.  be sure to get under that center cap. :L:  that's usually where it starts

 

I'm insanely curious to see what will happen to the aluminum bodied trucks in a few years.  salt kills all.  :fistshake2: 

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9 hours ago, Pete M said:

I'm insanely curious to see what will happen to the aluminum bodied trucks in a few years.  salt kills all.  :fistshake2: 

 

They make them from a "military grade alloy", oh, wait, it's 6111 and the military doesn't use that for anything.  It should last okay for the first phase of their life, after that the corrosion will likely go intergranular and it will be impossible to repair.  5-10 years, just long enough to ensure the warranty has expired.

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I’m extremely stuck on what wheels to get, I’m also interested in the canyons but having trouble finding anything decent, I did order the steel ones but they came back and saying they are out of stock so I’m now rethinking what I want :grrrrrr:

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You get what you pay for. 

 

High quality aluminum wheels are not lightweight, mine are 40lbs each. 

 

Guys talk about finish wear and corrosion.........again, what you pay for. 

 

There are plenty of aftermarket wheels with 5" BS, shop around. Close enough to stock.

 

If you are cheap and abusive, get steel. If you want quality, get aluminum, look to the high-end brands. 

 

 

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