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MeanLemons’ SuperComanche


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33 minutes ago, Darren said:

Why would you keep any of the Renix system? Especially if you had/have a 91 parts truck.

I didn’t want to part out the 91.  Part of the agreement I had with the buyer was that he will finish the repair/rebuild.  I would never let it go if I knew somebody were gonna cut it up for scrap.

 

plus. In the time bracket I drove it around for the being. It’s actually was most reliable vehicle I ever had next to my first 99 XJ.  No reason to toss out the renix, honestly. 

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25 minutes ago, MeanLemons said:

Nothing wrong with renix like some certain people here think 

 

Renix sucks bruh.

 

It just seems odd to me that you'd go through all the effort of installing an updated engine, but keeping the old inferior engine management system.

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5 minutes ago, Darren said:

 

Renix sucks bruh.

 

It just seems odd to me that you'd go through all the effort of installing an updated engine, but keeping the old inferior engine management system.

Also it’s not much effort doing the 99+ intake. I already have all the parts piled up. It’s not much of effort to to swap it.  So just because I did an 99 intake doesn’t mean I gotta re wire the whole truck. 

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11 hours ago, MeanLemons said:

It’s not really inferior.   Chrysler’s OBD1 aren’t exactly that great either so I would just be doing all that extra work for same results.   If I’m gutting the entire Comanche. I would do 97+ swap. 

 

Renix is fine. 

I've also had both systems over the years. Renix is quite simple and performs well. 

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Finished up the steering last night.  One little whoops; I forgot to weld on a steering stabilizer mount on the truss... I think I ll just make a

bolt-on bracket eventually. 

 

I also scored a free 1/4” thick 3x5 angle steel from work.  At exact width I needed. Talk about luck lol.

 

i haven’t decided yet on whether to cut the angle flush from end to end of the frame rails or leave it at 63” wide. (The custom bed will be 63.5” wide approximately). 

 

I'm thinking I ll leave it at 63” long so it can support the bed at the rear corners too. Plus I can make some sort of bumper mounting system that utilize those ends. 

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Had a bit of time after work today so I decided to tackle the fuel injectors and the related stuff..

 

i had volvo 746’s on before the engine blew up. I am still using it again with the renix fuel rail.  Now the mounting points wouldn’t work with the 99+ intake. So I got the idea from SatiricalHen; I took the fuel rail from the 97 motor I had nearby (the OD is larger than the renix rail) so I cut the mounting tabs off and simply bolted it on the intake holding the renix rail. 

 

I also cut all the injector connectors off and soldered in those from the 97 harness.

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Can you go more in depth on the 99 Intake swap into the Renix system?  Is it just the TPS adapter and various vacuum hoses/adapters?

There is a pretty good YouTube video on it by nick in time films, but it’s the tps adapter, the fuel rail adaptation (however you choose to do it), the different power steering pump, the different belt tensioner, a different belt size, and a few other small things. I did a 99 intake on my Comanche a while back. I also sourced a few parts for his.


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Today I machined an adapter out of stainless steel...  M10x1.5 female to male 1/2-13. 

 

 

 

The AX15 shifter cane was threaded for M10x1.5 , and the shift knob I bought a while ago had 1/2-13 threads on it.

 

What makes it so special?

 

I wired the shift knob to have two switches (thinking maybe I ll add one more, not decided yet). 

 

 

The red button on the side is momentary, meaning it only is energized for as long as the thumb is pressing on it. 

 

The black one is on-off switch.

 

The plan is to use the red for air horn and the black for the front led light bar.

 

 

 

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Did some stuff; reinstalled the alternator back on the engine, discovered I had a spare renix alternator as well. HOW I GOT IT, I have no idea. So I’m thinking I ll ship it to an alternator rebuilding shop and see what magic they can do with it. 

 

Cut the old dizzy cap so I can have a window but realized I don’t have the old rotor so I think I ll just go buy new stuff tomorrow so I can index the dizzy. 

 

Started cutting the template out for steel flares with CAD (cardboard aided design). Lol 

 

Also installed the new knock sensor. 

 

Reinstalled the fan clutch.

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Picked up a set of 97+ doors with manual crank windows and manual locks.

 

Along with a header panel.

 

And 97+ wiper arms. 

 

And floor mats in tan.

 

 

 

Sometime probably in couple of weeks. I'll be trading the old fenders for another set of 97+ doors with manual cranks (for spare parts) and probably half doors.

 

 

 

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Before I can put the doors on, I have to repair the cracked welds on the hinges... 

 

So I outlined where the paint need to be removed and then proceed to remove the paint with a disc sander.

 

I ll prob burn them in tomorrow.

 

 

 

I ll do the door-less mod at the same time as well. 

 

Just gotta google up how to do it.

 

 

 

Also on the header panel. There's 3 tiny hair line cracks on the top.  Any ideas how I can repair them?

 

 

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