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NHMJXJ

Mysterious "clunk", please help.

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Sorry, but you say you're only running 1.5" of lift, with tires that are ~ 30"... Do you even need adjustables?

Factory WJ control arms. 

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1 hour ago, gogmorgo said:

Sorry, but you say you're only running 1.5" of lift, with tires that are ~ 30"... Do you even need adjustables?

 

I asked the same questions earlier.   I guess I read that I would need them, but in review, it appears the meaning was more than an inch or two

of lift would require adjustables.  Yeah?

 

On 3/21/2019 at 12:32 AM, AZJeff said:

Adjustable control arms are employed when the vehicle is lifted beyond an inch or two above stock ride height.  (They are needed to restore the proper steering caster angle.)

 

Higher lifts are generally used when tires MUCH larger than normal are fitted.  You say you want to run larger tires.  How much larger did you have in mind?

 

image.gif

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48 minutes ago, NHMJXJ said:

 

 

I asked the same questions earlier.   I guess I read that I would need them, but in review, it appears the meaning was more than an inch or two

of lift would require adjustables.  Yeah?

 

 

image.gif

Adjustables give you options, options are always a good thing. 

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Remove Rough Country arms, toss in the trash, go back to stock arms. With 1.5-2" of lift you don't need adjustable arms.

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43 minutes ago, shelbyluvv said:

Remove Rough Country arms, toss in the trash

 

Ha!  I'd like to do that at this point, but I will get full refund and they pay return shipping. :L:  

 

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WJ arms for the win :D   behold all that gloriously cushioning bushing! 

 

 

190855733.jpg

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just read through this,

sounds like you need to find a friend with a torque wrench and some sockets and start torquing the track bar mount
i don't think its control arms, unless they used incorect diameter hardware on assembly (which would give a clunk when shifting back and forth and oblonging the mounting holes)

i torque all my track bar bracketry to 150-160 ft lbs (factory is to loose, this is a common issue)
if incorreclty installed (yes you can) it will shift when mass amount of preload is applied, ie your clunk

my suggestion is the above statement,  find a friend with a torque wrench, torque it all down snug, even go as far as to loosen the bracket off, slowly snug each bolt up till all four seat it snuggly to the frame (this is where people mess it up, they tighten two of four bolts immediatly and then the plate is now incorrectly aligned) but be sure once its seated to the frame to tighten the living crap out of it, I'm dead serious (thats why i suggest 150-160 ft lbs. think if your 160 lbs or even 220, and you were not able to move it by your own mass but the vehicle is able too with the forces it sees, you can see how torquing it less isnt effective enough)

this is something basic in a maintainence perspective to start to familiarize yourself with your vehicle more. (so you can stray more away on relying on an autoshop)

i  agree with all the other people who say its as  track bar issue

metal cloak is hands down better quality than roughcountry so that will be a great upgrade


***edit*** i have seen the engine mount portion of the track bar bracketry completley detstroid, and cracks running through it,
this is an area of the whole bracketry that people forget

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I appreciate all the tech support!   Picked up the XJ this evening after having the MetalCloak control arms installed. 

 

Mystery solved.  It was indeed the heim joints.  The Cherokee rides "Cadillac Quiet" through spring frost heaves and pot holes.

 

Thanks you guys

 

Tim

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37 minutes ago, NHMJXJ said:

I appreciate all the tech support!   Picked up the XJ this evening after having the MetalCloak control arms installed. 

 

Mystery solved.  It was indeed the heim joints.  The Cherokee rides "Cadillac Quiet" through spring frost heaves and pot holes.

 

Thanks you guys

 

Tim

Heims .............NEVER!

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