Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This has been my on going project since 2014. I purchased this from a Craigslist ad for $1100. It was an unfinished "restoration". The guys story was "Its my son's truck. He got a DUI. I'm selling it to pay his legal fees." Engine had been rebuilt by local Napa machine shop. Did okay except they didn't replace self locking rocker arm nuts. I got really good at removing valve covers. It idled really well in his driveway but on the way home it fell on its face wouldn't run 40 mph. Bad fuel pump and a questionable Rochester Varajet carb. Original color is a burgundy color but has been sprayed white and then John Deere green. Windshield leaked thus minor rust on the floor boards. Almost no interior other than original dash and evaporator case which is empty. No heater core and no evaporator core. Doors and servos are there with the blower motor. Some duct work is missing also. No radio or speakers. S10 seats with no brackets. I drove it home with seats not bolted down. It does have original seat belts. ae4faeab318f5c0aae076fe5dde990af.jpg7fe2d110e140b38bbc065ed6d38fc4e7.jpgb9c37a72186b7372ed18692a0f68d0d9.jpg

 

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I met somebody who bought some John Deere yellow, it was a 40s pickup and I think it was the classic yellow (1930s). Funny thing is a gallon Deere paint was cheaper than other alternatives. Or so he said

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This has been my on going project since 2014. I purchased this from a Craigslist ad for $1100. It was an unfinished "restoration". The guys story was "Its my son's truck. He got a DUI. I'm selling it to pay his legal fees." Engine had been rebuilt by local Napa machine shop. Did okay except they didn't replace self locking rocker arm nuts. I got really good at removing valve covers. It idled really well in his driveway but on the way home it fell on its face wouldn't run 40 mph. Bad fuel pump and a questionable Rochester Varajet carb. Original color is a burgundy color but has been sprayed white and then John Deere green. Windshield leaked thus minor rust on the floor boards. Almost no interior other than original dash and evaporator case which is empty. No heater core and no evaporator core. Doors and servos are there with the blower motor. Some duct work is missing also. No radio or speakers. S10 seats with no brackets. I drove it home with seats not bolted down. It does have original seat belts. ae4faeab318f5c0aae076fe5dde990af.jpg7fe2d110e140b38bbc065ed6d38fc4e7.jpgb9c37a72186b7372ed18692a0f68d0d9.jpg
 
Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk
 
 

Late 2015 I got sideswiped on the drivers side by a Hyundai. Then in a construction zone on the interstate A disabled car stopped in the lane of travel during 5 o'clock rush hour. With no place to go I rear ended the car thus damaged grille, header panel, bumper, radiator. Insurance totaled it. I wanted to keep it so I got a salvaged title and I parked it.

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This year I changed my work schedule so that I'm no longer working 6 days a week. The long work week made it a real challenge to work on this truck. 6 months ago I rented a small garage to work on it on my time off. I got a SBC 305 with a 700r4 transmission from a 1983 Camaro. I have rebuilt the engine to L69 "IROC" specs. Will post pics of that soon. I just finished gutting the interior, wire brushing, steelwool scrubbing, patching rust, rhino liner the floors inside and underneath, painting the interior black. It won't go back together till the V6 is out and I can clean and paint the engine bay...

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think I've ever heard of John Deere yellow. My father has always been partial to canary yellow...

I met somebody who bought some John Deere yellow, it was a 40s pickup and I think it was the classic yellow (1930s). Funny thing is a gallon Deere paint was cheaper than other alternatives. Or so he said
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 


Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its paint that has to be bought from a John Deere dealer.
Current Deere paint is the green and yellow for the lawn tractors, the construction yellow, charcoal, black seen on the bigger construction machines and of course the Hitachi orange (bolt per bolt same as most Deere machines with different paint, kind of like Caterpillar and Mitsubishi)

The old paint scheme from the 1920-30’s has what they call classic yellow and green which I think are darker than the current colors. Anyway the guy restoring the 40’s pickup was going to use the classic yellow because it was the right era for the truck and cheaper than automotive paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Its paint that has to be bought from a John Deere dealer.
Current Deere paint is the green and yellow for the lawn tractors, the construction yellow, charcoal, black seen on the bigger construction machines and of course the Hitachi orange (bolt per bolt same as most Deere machines with different paint, kind of like Caterpillar and Mitsubishi)

The old paint scheme from the 1920-30’s has what they call classic yellow and green which I think are darker than the current colors. Anyway the guy restoring the 40’s pickup was going to use the classic yellow because it was the right era for the truck and cheaper than automotive paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Rock On, cool...

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are pics of SBC nearly ready to install. Ordered water neck for small block Dodge and upper radiator hose for Durango since the pressure cap is in the hose and radiator I will be using is from an Infinti G37 and has no cap...other pics are of finished floor with rhino liner and painted firewall and back wall of cab in black base and clear coat...13845d360083acfa4bcd2045d16a7bbd.jpgf5338d242eab4d8ced6d319f5bfb9d6f.jpgf3dad6ab5f613200f92e589042195331.jpg6aa6d768cc78e975c364bdac4ae4a41b.jpg64e756ffd0b4f4221876a594b25a2ebc.jpg

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Here are pics of SBC nearly ready to install. Ordered water neck for small block Dodge and upper radiator hose for Durango since the pressure cap is in the hose and radiator I will be using is from an Infinti G37 and has no cap...other pics are of finished floor with rhino liner and painted firewall and back wall of cab in black base and clear coat...13845d360083acfa4bcd2045d16a7bbd.jpgf5338d242eab4d8ced6d319f5bfb9d6f.jpgf3dad6ab5f613200f92e589042195331.jpg6aa6d768cc78e975c364bdac4ae4a41b.jpg64e756ffd0b4f4221876a594b25a2ebc.jpg

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk


This afternoon i began working underhood. Removing the hood and fenders, all Underhood wiring, radiator, smog pump, alternator, starter...the old 2.8L V6 engine is nearly ready to come out...

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This afternoon i began working underhood. Removing the hood and fenders, all Underhood wiring, radiator, smog pump, alternator, starter...the old 2.8L V6 engine is nearly ready to come out...

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

Found out the hard way the 5.2L Durango water neck doesn't match up to the stock SBC intake. Bolt configuration is too narrow but I think ill make it work...been working hard at prepping engine bay and underbody for paint...d9424a3cdc924508effbca709ecc1143.jpgf812a68f8ba94dbcfa103028318baf45.jpgf35ca375aebb752822276c7c2256650f.jpgf10ed1163f3c1ad05f1fdb66f9623649.jpg

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This afternoon i removed my windshield (in one piece but not unbroken...). Rust is not as bad as expected but rust none the less and whoever last installed this #Safelite glass didn't do a very productive job. Glass sealant heavy in some spots and too thin in others. It actually looked as if the glass wasn't touching the sealant in one spot. Weird...I will finish cleaning up the channel tomorrow and doing the rust repair. Will post pics later...

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sorry I didn't take pics of the before. The rust wasn't near as bad as I expected. 2 small pin holes maybe eighth inch in diameter. One at the top, one at the bottom. Filled with short hair bondo hair and topped that with a thin layer of bondo all the way around to fill in the spot welds. Also ground down the nipples poking out at the top. These are all the way around and I'm presuming they are for chrome trim. With the rubber seal all the way around the glass I'm not sure how one would fasten trim with the seal in the way. I intend to use 3M window weld without the seal. Will this work? My thoughts are "I wonder if this unibody twists so much that's why windshield leaks are so prevalent?" Anyway, 3 coats of primer, then paint. Using gray around this area to make it easier to see how the sealant goes down and then squishes as the glass is installed. Every now and again there is a rhyme to my reason...LoL34e0d90889df5051958ac536bcbab22b.jpg208f496f3795a85ca0bcafb8e4dc11b9.jpgc7b82ae01e991cabf20dff1daa525a51.jpg

Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×