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Alexia

6.2 LS3/L99 and 6L80 in my LJ

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4 minutes ago, Alexia said:

 However, the used, abused, and trashed 4.0L WJ Grand Cherokees with worthless resale use the same style PDC.  The eBay sellers just cut the harness off.  $30 shipped for a bunch of factory fuse and relay terminals with wire leads in durable plastic packaging.

 

nice! 

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5 minutes ago, Pete M said:

 

nice! 

 

The same goes for the ZJ.  Its PDC terminals should work for late XJ and early TJ as well.  I would go cut one out from the local junkyard, but the LKQ people there will either charge me $10 or $100 depending on their mood for the day.

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Personally I prefer using 97+ / early TJ type because of the empty slot on the left side.

 

you could put a bolt there and run a mega fuse in place. 

 

Helps to to protect the circuits also.

 

That’s on my XJ. 

560F6547-4572-4336-AD3B-5E85CFFDB654.png

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1 hour ago, MeanLemons said:

Personally I prefer using 97+ / early TJ type because of the empty slot on the left side.

 

you could put a bolt there and run a mega fuse in place. 

 

Helps to to protect the circuits also.

 

That’s on my XJ. 

560F6547-4572-4336-AD3B-5E85CFFDB654.png

 

In this case I do need the entire PDC.  Just the fun bits inside!

 

I might be contacting you later for some custom cables.  The stock TJ battery cables work for most of the positive hook ups.  Going to see what I can salvage from the Camaro battery harness later.

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Today started off by harvesting PDC terminals from a very durable and very fancy shipping box the eBay seller used to send me them.

 

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I did use the extra four slot relay holder that came with the WJ PDC to add into my LJ's PDC.  The first three I have populated with a common positive relay trigger off the ASD output that feeds the stock injector fuse.  Which will no longer supply the injectors or ignition coils.  The injectors/ignition coils even, injectors/ignition coils odd, and something else relays will be triggered by the ASD this way similar to the GM PDC.  I had to go this route since the stock 4.0L setup was inadequate for going from three ignition coils and six injectors to eight ignition coils and eight injectors.

 

The power wiring will come in a bit once I get other bits of wiring in place.  Also, those terminals with multiple terminated wires are from the WJ's windshield wiper relays which are very handy for this.

 

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According to my calculations I finished exactly 50% of the necessary engine harness connections today.  There are a lot of tools and supplies that go into making a high quality wiring harness.

 

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Shown here is the completed 6-pin Metri-Pack connector for the Accelerator Pedal Position(APP) Sensor, 5-pin data/bus Metri-Pack connector, and the start of splicing in the C104 Grey Jeep 4.0L engine harness connector.

 

If you are wondering if I shortened then spliced the same wires back together the answer is no.  Apparently there are a lot of common wire colors shared in the industry for certain functionality.

 

IMG_1099.jpg

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GM has a social media email that can be used to request build sheets. I got one back for the Camaro this drive train came from. What I needed to know was if it had the "BTV" option which means remote engine start. It does and all I need to make it work is the remote keyless entry receiver I previously purchased and the correct remotes. The OEM like remotes from China are only $10 each and do not have any pesky dirty GM logos on them.

 

On 2/3/2019 at 8:47 AM, Limeyjeeper said:

Nice work. Spending the time on Electrical = Reliability. Worse thing in the world is chasing electrical gremlins!!

 

Thanks!  I am guessing I am about 90% on the engine wiring now.  I started on the BCM wiring diagram today too.

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I have spent so much time on this and keep making dumb mistakes like crimping the wrong gendered terminal on a wire.  My brain is mush.  Most of the time was trying to figure out where to repurpose fuses and add fuses with the empty slots.  The Chevrolet Camaro wiring diagrams dictated that I needed about four additional fuses added.  It also had a bunch of dumb stuff like a twenty foot wire run from the trunk to the ECM under the hood with 18AWG from a 20A fuse.

 

I added a bunch of wires and repurposed some.  I am really trying to keep this wiring looking stock as much as possible.  So I ripped apart the dash body harness to change up wires.

 

Here I added:
2x 20A power leads for the ignition coil/injector banks.
2x Relay controls for the fans.

 

IMG_1107.jpg

 

Eventually I remembered that I owned two folding tables that I could use for holding things.

 

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Despite being super careful the tabs in the PDC that hold the terminals in place are just too brittle.  My LJ's PDC is in great condition compared to the brittle WJ PDC I tore apart, but I still broke a bunch of tabs.  High temperature high adhesion hot glue to the rescue.

 

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A bit of improvising with spare terminals with crimped leads.

 

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I need a 7.5A mini fuse and some various J-Case fuses in sizes I do not have, but otherwise this is the populated PDC.  The top empty half ISO relay slot you can see through the holes to inside.  However, I did populate the positive side of the trigger with an ignition power source so it is ready to be used for something if I ever need it.  The "O2 Rear Heater Relay" in the slot below is removed since it will no longer be powering anything.

 

IMG_1113.jpg

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If it fits, it shifts.  I got the Savvy transfer case shifter to replace the Advance Adapters shifter I have that really only works with the stock drive train.  If the ears on the transfer case bracket were about 95º instead of 90º it would fit easily right out of the box behind a 6L80E.  A small sledgehammer fixed that.  I used every last thread adjusting the cable towards the front to line up both ends.

 

IMG_1127.jpg

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