Pete M Posted September 8, 2018 Author Share Posted September 8, 2018 new alternator is in and we're back to where we were a week ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 so which line does what as I'm looking at the frame below the rear seats? I ask because the second one from the top has a large rust flaw in it. Is that the fuel feed? fuel return? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 I'm guessing it's the vent. either way I'm ignoring it for now. just got back from the store and I think I now have everything to do this. we shall see... oh shoot. forgot the gear oil. whatever. I'll top that off later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 12, 2018 Author Share Posted September 12, 2018 screw it all. I'm not dealing with diesel fuel lines in the dark. tomorrow is another day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 the new pump is in and works. brand new fuel filter too. the idle has improved, the revving sounds good... but it won't rev past 3000. but it's smooth as silk at that rpm. sigh. I guess this should at least get me back to georgia. current codes of note: U0002 CAN C Bus off performance (in the ABS codes) P1186 Fuel pressure monitoring minimum pressure at engine speed too low. I've tried deleting them but they come back. tried disconnecting the battery too. persistent little bugger. I wonder how common are fuel pressure regulator failures are. or maybe the pressure sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveevryjp1998 Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 Did you do anything yet with the rusty line you found? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveevryjp1998 Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 I ask because it seems you have a lot going on and may have forgotten. It may also lead to something else you haven't noticed yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 not yet. wanted to try this first. plus I'm wondering if the 3/8" rubber line I have will clinch down hard enough to seal. it's a bit smaller than the bigger line that is clearly 3/8". I think I might go for a longer test drive over to autozone and see what they have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 found an old post on lostjeeps that says P1186 is "a plausibility fault on the airbox pressure sensor". I checked the sensor but my wire is firmly clipped on (the thread mentions that they like to fall off) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 Pete, if you are having unsolved trouble, there isn't a lot of hope for the rest of us. If you have auto transmission, you might want to reconsider reactivating cruise control. At least until some of the other issues are solved. For ZJs in the mid 90s, many owners commented that when major shifting issues occurred, the driver had activated cruise control. You can find comments by googling it. Happened to me. $1400 repair. Might be a last straw on the camels back issue but not sure the convenience of cruise control is worth the risk on ZJs. I don' tknow if there were similar issues with MJs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 I just have the trifecta of headaches. It's rusty, a diesel, and it's a rarity. I have plans to rewire the ABS to get my cruise back, but not 'til I return to georgia I've got a backlog of things to accomplish while I'm up here and the pump and my back have caused all sorts of delays. on the positive side, I went for another test drive and all went well. but I can't allow myself to get excited since it's done that before. so I'm going to ignore that for now and focus on the leaky trans line before it blows up from rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 Take Saturday night off and go to Zosia's restaurant in Hamtramic and enjoy some good Polish food and environs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 mmmm..... haven't been there in a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 Pete, you went silent with some unresolved MJ issues. Let us know that you are not lost in a swamp in North Carolina living off water moccasin meat on your way back to Atlanta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 19, 2018 Author Share Posted September 19, 2018 KJ. I haven't left yet. new drive day is friday. the rusty fuel return line is fixed. the leaky trans line is fixed. but the code and limp mode keeps coming back. I'm done messing with it until I get to GA. I drove up here in limp mode so I'm confident I can get back. especially since I can kill the code as often as I want. the one bit of new info is that the code reader has a few live stream info feeds and one shows that I'm at almost 10% throttle while at idle. not sure what that means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 What would 100% be? 65mph? Put on some balloon tires and float through NC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 On a totally unrelated note......if you ever get a CEL with a P1494 code for it, it's the alternator (not the cooling fan relay like it says). Mine threw that code yesterday, then about 5 minutes driving later the battery idiot light came on. Never saw that one before, lol. Got it home and sure 'nuff, the 17 year old alternator was d-e-a-d. It would intermittently start charging but then quit. Turning on the high beams, rear defroster, wipers, radio and heater the battery voltage slowly dropped to about 11 volts. Thankfully, a KJ has about the world's easiest alternator to change. It took about 5 minutes, and that included time to pause and drink a beer, too Apparently, code P1494 is set when charging voltage drops below 12 volts. edit: I see you already replaced your alternator..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 23, 2018 Author Share Posted September 23, 2018 yup. got a brand new bit of bling in the engine bay well, the Jeep got me to GA. only a couple times did I have to kick on the hazards when merging back onto the freeway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Any updates Pete? Mine's not an oil burner, but there's such a woeful lack of KJ tech on the internets I try to learn stuff about them wherever a credible source/wrencher exists, LOL Mine now has a new windshield, alternator, radiator and thermostat (with all new coolant). Hopefully nothing else breaks on it anytime soon.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 nothing new to report at the moment. Jeep drives "ok" as long as you don't try to push it hard. next steps include bleeding the air down to the injectors, and hitting up the junkyards for an in-tank gasoline pump and rear wire harness. but there's a lot of rain in the forecast and I've got a family vacation coming up next week so I'm not sure how much I want to dive into it before hand. every step involves me smelling like fuel. the throttle-percentage at idle has me intrigued though. I might just hook that up to one of the other cars to see if it also reads 10%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 I had the idea to unplug that sensor and drive around and, sure enough, it runs exactly the same and throws the same code. I think that might be a clue. I traced the wires back as far as I could but couldn't find any frays. I think a new sensor is in my future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 well if it's a clue, it's a red herring. a new sensor changes nothing. taping the connector firmly to the sensor changes nothing. I've got 5 volts at the connector. I'm running short of ideas to test... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 Was that the MAP sensor on the side of the airbox that you replaced? Did you use OEM (05101120AB ) or an aftermarket sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 I used a Bosch brand sensor. supposed to be a quality unit. the resistance numbers match the old sensor. no idea what they are supposed to be though. I can't find that info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 soooooo... not to alarm anyone, but I downloaded the 2006 KJ shop manual and my searches through it cannot find a p1186 code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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