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IDMJ

Sigh of relief

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Starting on my ‘89 to ‘99 swap. Pulled up the rubber floor mat and, I’m quite pleasantly surprised with the condition of my floors. 

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 BTW this is what I’m starting with. ‘89 swb sportruck 4.0, nv3550, 231, hp 30, Dana 44. On 6 1/2” RC longarm. 

 

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This will be my donor. ‘99 xj sport. Light damage front left corner. I have already sourced new fenders and grill/ header.

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IDMJ, the floor does look surprisingly good.  There must not have been leaks around the windshield.  The screws and rubber and metal plate look new. Was a round boot the original shape?  Think a po had changed that?

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On 8/13/2018 at 11:28 AM, Pete M said:

you've got quite the collection of Jeeps!  :D  very envious!

Thanks! We do like our Jeeps here.

 

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On 8/15/2018 at 8:02 AM, Manche757 said:

IDMJ, the floor does look surprisingly good.  There must not have been leaks around the windshield.  The screws and rubber and metal plate look new. Was a round boot the original shape?  Think a po had changed that?

I installed that boot when I did the 2wd to 4wd swap and put in an NV3550.

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The rust on the floor is active but doesn't look structural.  Mind taking a few pics and explaining how you will arrest it before priming painting?

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4 hours ago, Manche757 said:

The rust on the floor is active but doesn't look structural.  Mind taking a few pics and explaining how you will arrest it before priming painting?

I will use a flapper wheel and sand them bare. Then a couple coats of zero rust. It is a converter like por15. I've had real good luck with that in the past.

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So, I’m getting ready to start on another shop so I actually have room to work around here. That means the swap will slow down for a while. I’ll pick at it when I can. I did score an awesome deal on some 35” STT pro’s so I treated it to new wheels too.

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Made some tear down progress today. I swapped the doors out for the ‘99 power ones and, got a lot of the interior pulled and the drivetrain almost ready to pull.

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Haven’t posted in a while. Slowly moving forward. Completely gutted it and moved all the appropriate holes around on the firewall. Got the heater box test fit and the upper dash mounts in. Dash fits great. 

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8 hours ago, Pete M said:

have you decided on a paint color? 

I think I’m going with the original blue.

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it'll be a stunner for sure :L: 

 

what's the story on the Willys?  you need to do some build threads on your other rides too :D 

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4 minutes ago, Pete M said:

it'll be a stunner for sure :L: 

 

what's the story on the Willys?  you need to do some build threads on your other rides too :D 

It's a 63 with 50k original miles. Found it sitting in a field 15 years ago. Had a dealer installed Chevy 327. It now has a Nova subframe and was getting setup for an lt1 but, plans have changed again.i have a 12 valve Cummins and nv4500 for it.....

 

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Made some more headway the last couple weeks. Stripped the floor pans and got them coated. Let it set a week and started assembly. Put new heater core and a/c evaporator in before installing the heater box. Installed the dash and, steering column, main wire harness, brake booster/master.

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Today was very productive . Installed new water pump, thermostat, header, hoses, and belt. Drivetrain is in. Under hood is probably 80%.

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21 hours ago, Pete M said:

lookin' very "factory" in there :D 

Kinda what I’m shooting for.😏

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Well, after the last month I think I'm about ready to push this project off a cliff. Spent 3 weeks chasing a " no bus" issue. Stupid airbag control module ground. 😈

Before I started this swap I made sure all systems worked and I had no cel's. Now, my horn, power windows, door locks and, turn signals don't work. My brake light switch now sits about 1/8" away from the pedal assembly and, I don't see any adjustment. Also, fuel pumps not running but, gas gauge works....... Does anyone have a diagram that shows what the connectors that plug into the fuse panel go to?

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