Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Beautiful! Do you have a part number for the sockets?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It depends what kind of condition your current sockets are in...AC Delco# LS7 if you need the entire socket and it's about $25 per socket. Gray in color like OEM. https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-original-equipment-side-marker-lamp-socket-mpn-ls7.html?view=236082&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0NeB8vup6QIVTOztCh3c8g5jEAQYAiABEgIV3fD_BwE

 

Or if you just need the backing, the less expensive way to go is through Wiring Depot. Their socket# 2583F is cream/ yellow color, but only $7 per socket.

https://www.wiringdepot.com/store/p/494-JT-T-2583F-3-Wire-GM-Chrysler-AMC-90-Double-Contact-Back-Up-Stop-Tail-Turn-Light-Socket-Pigtail-1977-Newer-1-Pc.aspx

 

Removing the terminals of your current MJ sockets are easy to remove and pop into a new connector. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 6.5" Rockford woofers came today...they're about 2.5" deep and heavy as the 8" sub going in my '97 XJ. Looks like I'm going to need to rethink my subwoofer area. Either going to build a MJ specific fit-to-the-backwall enclosure and/or adapt the first gen XJ separate sound bar to hold those speakers, as that sound bar is plenty deep (unlike the '99+ XJ integrated sound bar). A little project to get to.

 

IMG_9195.JPG

 

IMG_9196.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also been freshening the fuel tank with new hoses, clamps, and roll-over safety valves. I was surprised to find both the seals on mine were cracked. Chances of fuel actually leaking out of these are slim, but while they are sill available from dealers I'm replacing both the seal and valve of both.

 

IMG_9197 (3).PNG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Chipping away and changing a few things as I go...Since I'm going to be running subs behind the seats now, I needed to go in yet again to the PDC and modify things so I could get 60W fused power to run the Rockford amplifier that will power these. With that, I need to bump the IPF relay harness power to just outside the PDC -- about where the cruise control servo cable attaches to the PDC/overflow reservoir bracket -- in a weatherproof fuse holder. Diagram and photo below.

 

IMG_9520.JPG

 

PDC Final.JPG

 

The Mega fuse holder for the 270A alternator now resides in front of the coolant jug for easy access (use to be in the mounting area of the DirtBound battery tray -- a nightmare to access). I also added a hose off the overflow so if coolant does flow out, it won't wet/damage any of the electric. 

 

IMG_9523.JPG

 

With those changes engine-side, I was able to run the wiring inside and install the subwoofer amp opposite the main 4-speaker amplifier -- on the passenger side footwell panel. I needed to move around the power window relays and connector that powers the harness for the inner door passenger side to makes things work, and make sure the amp has enough breathing room. Eventually all loose wires will be organized here too...

 

IMG_9508.JPEG

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice!  I love seeing audio upgrades, that's my passion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks...I do what I can to make those sound system additions visually subtle. I want my enclosure set up to appear 'factory' Comanche somehow.

 

Finally got the fuel, brake and breather lines in place. Came out nice and clean. I know most people do'n't notice chassis side, but I do. Nuts I know.

 

IMG_9258.JPG

 

IMG_9257.JPG

 

IMG_9262.JPG

 

And axle brake line attached.

 

IMG_9545.JPEG

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Top notch work as always.

 

How is the amp behind kick panel going to breathe ?

Maybe the latest generation of amps don't need as much fresh air as old style... I dunno.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Exactly. These amps need just under an inch breathing space all around to keep cool. Kick panel isn’t a fully enclosed area fortunately. Should be a-ok. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Plugging along finishing lots of details to the MJ's underside...Drilled a 1 3/8" access hole on either side of the frame so I can put a nut on all the bolts for the sway bar end link mounting bracket. Took my time measuring and all came out well. Once the brackets are mounted/ nuts in place I'll use these 'caplugs' to fill the holes.

 

IMG_4988.JPEG

 

Mounted all hardware since chassis paint -- front and rear shocks, attached brake lines, bled system, etc. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finishing up wires to the back of the MJ – 3rd brake light and interior light for camper shell. Also running optional 12V ignition-on cigarette lighter power for the bed.

 

Capture.JPG

 

Did a masticated rubber cut-out for underside of the ‘X’ cross member for the tire contact. Cut, punched and push-pinned it into place.

 

IMG_9313.JPG

 

And finally, filled the taillight sockets with marine grade dielectric grease and snapped on the new backsides.

 

IMG_5005.JPEG

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lots of cleaning today -- everything from fuel tank hoses, breather lines to an '87 XJ black horn hub. 25+ Q-tip to get it done. I'll be touching up the plastic torx of the hub also.

 

IMG_5014.JPEG

 

Also painting a ton of nuts and bolts for re-assembly when the time comes...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great, you're one PATIENT man!

I drilled out the plastic torx heads, put in stainless torx bolts of a similar size and painted the centers black, I know it's not OEM, but I never have to worry about the silver rubbing off. Just a thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, actually crossed my mind too...but I think will keep as is. For now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Long ago I had wired back to the camper shell interior lighting that goes on with the trucks interior lights; additionally, I fit a first gen Dodge Dakota 3rd brake light just above the rear glass of the SnugTop's shell. Worked great. This round, just in case I go camper-shell-less, I've wired cargo light and 3rd brake light wiring to the back top of the shell. Since my factory rocker switch locations are all occupied with fog light, auxiliary fan override, and winch on/off & in/out controls -- I wired the cargo light with the interior lights also. I though about using a 70's GM foot actuated hi-beam switch, but decided against it. As for the actual cargo/3rd brake light I'm using...I've poured through all years/ manufacturers that existed. Settled on 2 that look MJ appropriate. First gen Dodge Ram full size (top photo) and second gen Ford Ranger (bottom photo). Since I'm waiting on them to arrive, I'll need to hold them up to the MJ to see which looks best. I'm leaning towards the Dodge as it is Chryco.

 

ram.jpg

ranger.jpg

I also dug up some NOS upholstery I got 15+ years ago...1987 YJ black "Jeep" logo's denim vinyl and XJ black vinyl. I had also purchased a few years back some aftermarket non-logo'd (because they can't logo it without Jeep's permission) black denim vinyl. The aftermarket denim vinyl is a blue black color (top right color) versus a brown black color as the NOS denim and denim vinyl is...so I'll be going with the logo'd upholstery. Now to decide on the stitch pattern of the winged bucket seats I'm going to use. I think I'm going to go with a stitch blend between the Laredo and the old Wagoneer XJ Limited. When I have some time I'll play with Photoshop.

 

IMG_9348 (1).jpg

 

Seat pattern 1.5.jpg

 

seat pattern 3.jpg

 

seat pattern 2.jpeg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been cleaning, prepping, painting, and sorting parts... Also took delivery of a well packaged Spectra fuel tank. Finally! These are made in Canada and are quality reproduction units -- but I will say their shipping box was paper thin with no protection/ padding around the tank whatsoever. I had taken delivery and shipped back 3 tanks prior because they had been bent and dented in transit. I contacted Spectra directly, explained I was restoring a couple Comanche's, and they sent me 5 well packaged tanks to choose from. I ended up keeping 2. Way to go Customer Service -- really appreciated it! Here's one of them cleaned up...

 

IMG_9378.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as the third brake/ cargo light goes -- it's going to have to be the Ford Ranger set up. I unfortunately can't trim the '95 Dodge Ram set up far enough back topside to make it work on the MJ. The Ranger light looks good though. I bought two of them...one a Dorman I was going to practice on and then a NOS Ford unit to perfect. I decided to start cutting on the Ford light and I'm glad I did. 3 hours of some dremel-ing and a whole lot of measuring and hand filing got me to the final product below. When I first looked at the Ford unit, the internet photo must have been an aftermarket -- you can see the difference. The Dorman looks like something off of the Dukes of Hazzard sheriff's car (they must be double-dipping with the old Ranger and Super Duty on this light), while the Ford light is clear across the front with the backside red plastic not being in your face. Similar to the Ram light. I'm going to change the huge electrical connector to something that MJ parts-bin.

 

IMG_4074.jpg

 

IMG_4077.jpg

 

IMG_4081.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The latest project is aimed at clearing the back wall of the cab...I've never been a fan of the MJ's spare tire junk up against the back wall -- plus I'm adding a couple small woofers and I want tat back cab wall area to look clean -- so I spent some quality time at the local wrecking yard trying to see what OEM options were out there from any manufacturer. I settled on Ford's inner fender mount bottle jack bracket. I removed it from a 1994 full-size Bronco, but as you can imagine that bracket can also be found on the F-series of that same generation. A few cuts, bends, and grinds got me to the final product below. I'm mounting it on the driver's side inner fender up high. My truck's a '92 and in that year the wash/wipe reservoir is on the passenger side above the blower motor. For those interested in this set up just use the '97+ XJ inner fender reservoir to get that item out of the way. As for the jack 'crank' arm, that's going on the passenger side with the 'Y' portion tucking near the inner fender side of the battery tray and the other end inner fender towards the firewall.. Again, I scoured the wrecking yard I was at to find some thing to clip that 'crank' to...and found that the '97 Ford F-150/ Expedition has 2 clips to either side of the radiator that worked near perfectly. I had to trim one and open up the clip portion to accept the MJ's crank as it was a slightly wider diameter over the Ford's. One clip I'm positioning near the battery tray and the other mid-inner fender up high. (Note: these clips are upside down in this pic.)

 

IMG_9407.JPG

 

IMG_9408.JPG

 

IMG_9406.JPG

 

Currently paint is drying but once I have everything mounted up I'll post a few pics...Also, the lug wrench I'll be using will be a telescoping Gorilla wrench that will reside under the passenger seat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some pics of the installed under the hood MJ spare tire tools...Remember there's a few modifications to my MJ's engine compartment that make this set up a little easier. I have relocated the washer bottle tank under the front fender ('97+ XJ), master cylinder brake lines were redone by me, and I added a '91 XJ ABS controller tray passenger side to mount the Warn winch solenoid. This setup can be done without some of these mods but I think they contributed to the ease of installation. And again my reason moved these items under the hood is for a clean back of cab area so I can set up a simple sub enclosure somewhat true to the MJ era interior.

 

to use 3.JPG

 

The passenger side crank stays in place thanks to two Ford first-gen Expedition retaining clips -- one mounted mid-inner fender and the other to the side of the battery tray (note: I'm running a Dirt Bound battery tray). I padded the Warn solenoid tray where it comes in contact with the crank so there is no vibrations/sounds coming from it.

 

IMG_9430.jpg

 

IMG_9432.jpg

 

IMG_9434.jpg

 

Driver's side has the slightly modified Bronco/F-150 bottle jack bracket...It's positioned so the retaining arm clears the master cylinder brake lines. Padding was also applied to both the back of the jack and the retainer so it would not vibrate/make sounds as the truck rides along.

 

IMG_9439.jpg

 

IMG_9435.jpg

 

IMG_9438.jpg

 

IMG_9445.jpg

 

IMG_9446.jpg

 

Finally on my quest of installing a new fuel tank, straps, etc...I was looking for new Comanche J-bolts which are not an easy find. I had read on this site that Freightliner battery tray hold-downs worked, so I ordered them. Not sure how they worked for that MJ owner because there was way to long a stretch of this bolt that was un-threaded. Just wouldn't work. The Spectra fuel tank straps came with new J-bolts but they were way to long and I'd be wrenching forever on that nut before it seated. They were Cherokee J-bolts...Close, but not quite right. Many an internet search finally brought me to Mopar 60's-70's muscle car era J-bolts -- the proper length, though a pinch smaller in diameter (standard versus MJ metric). Here's how they line up to my factory MJ J-bolts. Both of my original bolts are bent...the one not shown bent the worst. (Non-Mopar bolts are also available and are not green in color, but these are the one's I got...J-bolts).

 

IMG_9474.jpg

 

IMG_9477.PNG

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bouncing between projects as it is hot as hell here...I just took delivery of a clear finely textured tape that I will use as an overlay of my custom switch pod labels. The photo doesn't do the texture justice -- it's an exact match to the MJ/ XJ switch pod texture. Believe me, I went through quite a few to find the exact match. I found this product online at www.noskidding.com. The item# is NS4006C -- which is a 6"x60" roll of tape. For the lighting, I have purchased a light blue semi-transparent tape I can place over the backside white of my label or I have purchased blue light bulb covers for the small bulbs that illuminate the icon of the switch (similar to the XJ/ MJ gauge cluster bulbs). I think this should work best, with the blue tape as a fall-back. 

 

IMG_9479.jpg

 

+ MJ Pod Fog & Fan.JPG

 

+ MJ Pod Winch.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...