HOrnbrod Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 I had mine made by a guy on the strokers forum years ago. He machined them out of a solid piece of aluminum. Unfortunately he doesn't make them anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share Posted November 26, 2018 Yep, I bought 2 from that guy as well about the same time as you did. Same as yours. He is still making the black plastic ones as I recently purchased another that I was going to chrome pen paint it. Options...I like to have options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted November 30, 2018 Author Share Posted November 30, 2018 I've been scratching my head about a rear sway bar for my MJ. The TrailBlazer option works great for a D35, but the 44's pumpkin isn't centered and that option sway bar looks off to me. I took a chance grabbing a 3/4" TJ factory rear sway bar to see how it would mount up. Just held it up over the rear differential/ frame this morning and it's going to fit great (possibly with different endlinks or endlinks mounted on the outside of the bar). With this bar, the arms extend in the forward direction (towards the front of the truck) versus rearward as the TrailBlazer bar does. This prevents the issue of fitting a larger spare tire. (Originally I was running 235/70R15's and that size tire would not get under my truck well, so I opted to get a slightly smaller spare at that time that did not contact the bar). Steinjager makes an aftermarket 1" rear bar that fits the bill. I've just ordered it and it will be here next week some time and I'll do a write up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 I worked a bit on the interior floorboard today prepping for POR15...As I wire brushed the floor I was surprised to see that I do in fact have a couple of small rust holes where I can see ground on the passenger side. (Photo make them look larger than they are for some reason). Need to fix it before I seal and line the floorboard... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drcomanche Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Those are some good looking floorboards if that's it. Great build so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 My Stroker motor runs hot (meaning at a stop light I typically need to shut it down before the temp gauge hits the zone)...and I've been working to reduce the engine temps without cutting a 24" hole on each side of the hood. Hornbrod mentioned his Hesco motor ran hot like this for the first 1000 miles or so. Since I'm running the Hesco hi-flow water pump, I've slowed down the flow of coolant using a restrictor from SpeedWay motors. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Water-Flow-Restrictor-1-5-8-Inch,6540.html I also poured in a bottle of Lucas' Super Coolant after reading many positive reviews on the internet. I was a bit doubtful of it actually working but thought I'd give it a try. The combination of this and the restrictor installed led to a true 10 degree reduction in engine temperature...I was shocked. I'm consistently idling at 220 degrees. (I couldn't idle for more than 5-7 mins before without needing to shut it down). Eager to try it out on the road. In the mean time, I've repaired the small rust holes on my floorboard and have sealed them up. Next I'll follow up with some POR15 for good measure. The new carpet has been Scotchguarded and will go in after some sound matting is installed. After that, I have some other interior projects to wrap up...which includes an improved (looks-wise) overhead console, new speakers (with modified deeper factory speaker grills), new switch pod label install, new door-to-body seals, Steadfast steering column security collar, and 97+ XJ window installation with Beijing XJ regulators. (Beijing power window regulators are for a full 97+ XJ window and their regulators are a direct drop-in for 84-96 XJ/ MJ inner door sheet metal). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebigmj Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 So you’re saying you can run the older style doors with 97+ one piece glass using the Chinese regulators? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Without absolutely any modification to anything, you can run the new glass, chinese regulators, and original door panels. Regulators mount in the same exact holes as 84-96 XJ/MJ's. You can run the 97+ XJ regulators in the old doors with some spacing/ shimming, but having owned/ owning a '01 XJ I can tell you those regulators are crap. Believe it or not the Chinese regulators are made in Japan and are all metal, cabling and all. Very nice quality. Not sure how easy these are to get though as I purchased them back in 2005 from a Chinese exporter. You will need to make a very simple adapter plate from the Chinese regulator tabs to the 97+ glass as the glass holes are placed differently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebigmj Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 I’ve always been curious about doing that. I love the idea of the one piece glass without having to use the newer doors. I’m sorta partial to the older interior and I like the original faded out look of my paint. Has this been done with manual windows? I’m not sure I want to convert mine over to power windows. Also your trucks are absolutely beautiful and your attention to detail in unreal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 I’ve never looked at adapting the manual regulator to the full window. My guess is an adapter plate can be used to bolt up the full window. The Beijing XJ never had a manual option on the 2500 model. I could be wrong but I think the older XJ/MJ had a single attaching point on the regulator to the window. I will say I also cut the front window channel support bracket off a 97+ XJ from both the driver and passenger door for full window channel support of the larger window. The channel extends to the speaker opening but doesn’t interfere. It’s not necessary but I though it was a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 6 hours ago, Gjeep said: Without absolutely any modification to anything, you can run the new glass, chinese regulators, and original door panels. Regulators mount in the same exact holes as 84-96 XJ/MJ's. You can run the 97+ XJ regulators in the old doors with some spacing/ shimming, but having owned/ owning a '01 XJ I can tell you those regulators are crap. Believe it or not the Chinese regulators are made in Japan and are all metal, cabling and all. Very nice quality. Not sure how easy these are to get though as I purchased them back in 2005 from a Chinese exporter. You will need to make a very simple adapter plate from the Chinese regulator tabs to the 97+ glass as the glass holes are placed differently. can you do a writeup for the DIY forum on this? there's a guy in Tech that just asked about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 Yep, I saw that earlier today. Will do, but I’m about a week or so out from getting this done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 Didn't accomplish a whole lot on the MJ this weekend other than kicking off some projects. I started the tear-down and write up on the full window upgrade as it seemed a few were curious to see it done. Pulled everything out of the doors and cleaned them up. POR-15'd the interior floor board over the seam sealer entirely yesterday, then primered it today in preparation for factory color paint and clearcoat. Also started a new overhead console for the MJ. I short-cutted it years back when I first got the truck with a stubby console. Never really liked it, but it had the temp and compass that I was going for. Finally getting around to a full overhead console from a very sanded and cut down XJ console from that era, teamed with an '84 Chry-co minivan sourced end cap. Lots more to do on this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted December 24, 2018 Author Share Posted December 24, 2018 Had an hour or so today to finish shaping the overhead console. I pulled the headliner out of the truck to reference the shape as I sanded away on the plastic. Came out well and I'll be covering it, the headliner, and the visors before I put it back in — factory gray color. Also completed the new transmission cover-plate using an AW4 column shift plate (thanks MeanLemons) that gave me an opportunity to drill a simple 4" round hole in it that's perfect for my Hurst 5-speed shifter to fit into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Finished the bits and pieces to my tailgate lock, but didn't have a chance to fully install it after painting. I did test it out prior to however and it works great. As with any security measure, it serves as a deterrent and teamed with a loud alarm siren, my goal is a thief give up before figuring out how to defeat the lock. Basically it's a universal power door lock actuator attached to a custom plate. The plate sits behind the tailgate handle (between the handle and the gate itself), and the actuator is tied to my power door lock system. When 'locked' the actuator rod goes through a hole I drilled on the side of the handle. I had a 'test actuator' that I actually tried to destroy for some time lifting the handle up and down hard to break it-- and no dice, it did what I was hoping-- didn't budge or show any signs of distortion or damage. Here's some photo's of the components... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 Getting to little things between holidays...Received 1/4" 5.25" speaker spacers for my front door. These are used to shim the speaker out a bit so the full window clears when lowered. Originally these spacers were round, but because of the metal stamping on the inner door I needed to square them off so they would fit properly. I also added clearance depth for the inlaid tweeter by shimming the factory speaker grille with a trimmed out factory speaker grille to mount against the door panel. I trimmed the backside cardboard only area of the door panel so the shimmed speaker would have adequate clearance and would not 'bulge' the door panel when it is installed. Basically I carved out a diameter to clear 5.25". These speaker grilles will need to be mounted with a fender washer and screw instead of the factory push-on clip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 My MJ has been sitting for a time as I've been working on getting an overhaul on the house done. In between working on the house, I've found a low mileage mint condition flame red 97 XJ that I've torn apart and am redo-ing in depth...BUT as I work on other projects, the MJ is never far from my mind. Since the Hesco stroker was installed I've only run it basically around the block a couple times. It runs hot as it is apparently known to do until it breaks in. Since the Reflexxion cowl hood is not longer available and I'm not a fan of the fiberglass variants, I've been trying to find a tasteful hood louver option. I've purchased several sets of the '90's Pontiac Grand Prix GTP louver, but wasn't 100% sold. Finally came across MMD's Ford Mustang (functional) louver/ vent, part# 71334-99. I took a chance and bought it to place on the hood. It looks good and can be placed in a location with minimal affect to any under hood electronics. I've yet to cut into the hood, but plan to before end of summer. Here's a pic of the louver set. I'll most likely use these same part#'s on my '89 MJ stroker project as I like the look of them. Stay tuned for installed photos... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 Staying tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted August 15, 2019 Share Posted August 15, 2019 On 11/30/2018 at 12:58 PM, Gjeep said: I've been scratching my head about a rear sway bar for my MJ. The TrailBlazer option works great for a D35, but the 44's pumpkin isn't centered and that option sway bar looks off to me. I took a chance grabbing a 3/4" TJ factory rear sway bar to see how it would mount up. Just held it up over the rear differential/ frame this morning and it's going to fit great (possibly with different endlinks or endlinks mounted on the outside of the bar). With this bar, the arms extend in the forward direction (towards the front of the truck) versus rearward as the TrailBlazer bar does. This prevents the issue of fitting a larger spare tire. (Originally I was running 235/70R15's and that size tire would not get under my truck well, so I opted to get a slightly smaller spare at that time that did not contact the bar). Steinjager makes an aftermarket 1" rear bar that fits the bill. I've just ordered it and it will be here next week some time and I'll do a write up. Whatever came of this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepmj_tj Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Any update on the window swap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJXJjeepguy Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 What happen to napier hood vents u were sell it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 Getting back to the MJ a bit as I need to take a sanity break from the house project which seems unending... The MJ is going under the knife. Cutting holes in the hood for vents. Here's the before cutting. Currently work in progress so will post again once the vents are dropped into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 Done but they're not permanently mounted yet as I'm going to wait until I paint the truck. Unfortunately/ fortunately, I had to go back to the factory air box as the k&n filter charger kit was too high even if I trimmed the louvers. Volant air intake kit didn’t work either for the same reason. I'm surprised how much I like the look of the louvers. I actually like it better than the XJ cowl hood. For some reason I only think cowls belong on Chevy's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecodemonk Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 That looks way better than I thought they would! That looks awesome! Do they stick out a lot underneath? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 I've been jonesing for an update! Glad to see the MJ is getting some one-on-one time. Is the XJ done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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