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I had mine made by a guy on the strokers forum years ago. He machined them out of a solid piece of aluminum. Unfortunately he doesn't make them anymore.

 

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Yep, I bought 2 from that guy as well about the same time as you did. Same as yours.

He is still making the black plastic ones as I recently purchased another that I was going to chrome pen paint it. Options...I like to have options.

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I've been scratching my head about a rear sway bar for my MJ. The TrailBlazer option works great for a D35, but the 44's pumpkin isn't centered and that option sway bar looks off to me. I took a chance grabbing a 3/4" TJ factory rear sway bar to see how it would mount up. Just held it up over the rear differential/ frame this morning and it's going to fit great (possibly with different endlinks or endlinks mounted on the outside of the bar).  With this bar, the arms extend in the forward direction (towards the front of the truck) versus rearward as the TrailBlazer bar does. This prevents the issue of fitting a larger spare tire. (Originally I was running 235/70R15's and that size tire would not get under my truck well, so I opted to get a slightly smaller spare at that time that did not contact the bar).

 

Steinjager makes an aftermarket 1" rear bar that fits the bill.  I've just ordered it and it will be here next week some time and I'll do a write up.

 

sway #2.JPG

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I worked a bit on the interior floorboard today prepping for POR15...As I wire brushed the floor I was surprised to see that I do in fact have a couple of small rust holes where I can see ground on the passenger side. (Photo make them look larger than they are for some reason). Need to fix it before I seal and line the floorboard...

 

Rust.jpg

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My Stroker motor runs hot (meaning at a stop light I typically need to shut it down before the temp gauge hits the zone)...and I've been working to reduce the engine temps without cutting a 24" hole on each side of the hood. Hornbrod mentioned his Hesco motor ran hot like this for the first 1000 miles or so. Since I'm running the Hesco hi-flow water pump, I've slowed down the flow of coolant using a restrictor from SpeedWay motors. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Water-Flow-Restrictor-1-5-8-Inch,6540.html  

 

restrictor.JPG

I also poured in a bottle of Lucas' Super Coolant after reading many positive reviews on the internet. I was a bit doubtful of it actually working but thought I'd give it a try. The combination of this and the restrictor installed led to a true 10 degree reduction in engine temperature...I was shocked. I'm consistently idling at 220 degrees. (I couldn't idle for more than 5-7 mins before without needing to shut it down). Eager to try it out on the road.

 

In the mean time, I've repaired the small rust holes on my floorboard and have sealed them up. Next I'll follow up with some POR15 for good measure. The new carpet has been Scotchguarded and will go in after some sound matting is installed. After that, I have some other interior projects to wrap up...which includes an improved (looks-wise) overhead console, new speakers (with modified deeper factory speaker grills), new switch pod label install, new door-to-body seals, Steadfast steering column security  collar, and 97+ XJ window installation with Beijing XJ regulators. (Beijing power window regulators are for a full 97+ XJ window and their regulators are a direct drop-in for 84-96 XJ/ MJ inner door sheet metal). 

 

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Without absolutely any modification to anything, you can run the new glass, chinese regulators, and original door panels. Regulators mount in the same exact holes as 84-96 XJ/MJ's. You can run the 97+ XJ regulators in the old doors with some spacing/ shimming, but having owned/ owning a '01 XJ I can tell you those regulators are crap. Believe it or not the Chinese regulators are made in Japan and are all metal, cabling and all. Very nice quality. Not sure how easy these are to get though as I purchased them back in 2005 from a Chinese exporter. 

 

You will need to make a very simple adapter plate from the Chinese regulator tabs to the 97+ glass as the glass holes are placed differently. 

 

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I’ve always been curious about doing that. I love the idea of the one piece glass without having to use the newer doors. I’m sorta partial to the older interior and I like the original faded out look of my paint. Has this been done with manual windows? I’m not sure I want to convert mine over to power windows. Also your trucks are absolutely beautiful and your attention to detail in unreal. 

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I’ve never looked at adapting the manual regulator to the full window. My guess is an adapter plate can be used to bolt up the full window. The Beijing XJ never had a manual option on the 2500 model. I could be wrong but I think the older XJ/MJ had a single attaching point on the regulator to the window. 

 

I will say I also cut the front window channel support bracket off a 97+ XJ from both the driver and passenger door for full window channel support of the larger window. The channel extends to the speaker opening but doesn’t interfere. It’s not necessary but I though it was a good idea. 

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6 hours ago, Gjeep said:

Without absolutely any modification to anything, you can run the new glass, chinese regulators, and original door panels. Regulators mount in the same exact holes as 84-96 XJ/MJ's. You can run the 97+ XJ regulators in the old doors with some spacing/ shimming, but having owned/ owning a '01 XJ I can tell you those regulators are crap. Believe it or not the Chinese regulators are made in Japan and are all metal, cabling and all. Very nice quality. Not sure how easy these are to get though as I purchased them back in 2005 from a Chinese exporter. 

 

You will need to make a very simple adapter plate from the Chinese regulator tabs to the 97+ glass as the glass holes are placed differently. 

 

 

 

can you do a writeup for the DIY forum on this?  there's a guy in Tech that just asked about it. :D 

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Didn't accomplish a whole lot on the MJ this weekend other than kicking off some projects. I started the tear-down and write up on the full window upgrade as it seemed a few were curious to see it done. Pulled everything out of the doors and cleaned them up.

 

door 1.jpg

 

POR-15'd the interior floor board over the seam sealer entirely yesterday, then primered it today in preparation for factory color paint and clearcoat. 

 

floor 2.jpg

 

floor.jpg

 

Also started a new overhead console for the MJ. I short-cutted it years back when I first got the truck with a stubby console. Never really liked it, but it had the temp and compass that I was going for. Finally getting around to a full overhead console from a very sanded and cut down XJ console from that era, teamed with an '84 Chry-co minivan sourced end cap. Lots more to do on this...

 

stuvvy.jpg

 

console.jpg

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Had an hour or so today to finish shaping the overhead console. I pulled the headliner out of the truck to reference the shape as I sanded away on the plastic. Came out well and I'll be covering it, the headliner, and the visors before I put it back in — factory gray color. Also completed the new transmission cover-plate using an AW4 column shift plate (thanks MeanLemons) that gave me an opportunity to drill a simple 4" round hole in it that's perfect for my Hurst 5-speed shifter to fit into. 

 

Console 1.jpg

 

console 2.jpg

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Finished the bits and pieces to my tailgate lock, but didn't have a chance to fully install it after painting. I did test it out prior to however and it works great. As with any security measure, it serves as a deterrent and teamed with a loud alarm siren, my goal is a thief give up before figuring out how to defeat the lock. Basically it's a universal power door lock actuator attached to a custom plate. The plate sits behind the tailgate handle (between the handle and the gate itself), and the actuator is tied to my power door lock system. When 'locked' the actuator rod goes through a hole I drilled on the side of the handle. I had a 'test actuator' that I actually tried to destroy for some time lifting the handle up and down hard to break it-- and no dice, it did what I was hoping-- didn't budge or show any signs of distortion or damage. Here's some photo's of the components...

 

tail.jpg

 

tail2.jpg

 

actuator.jpg

 

gate.jpg

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Getting to little things between holidays...Received 1/4" 5.25" speaker spacers for my front door. These are used to shim the speaker out a bit so the full window clears when lowered. Originally these spacers were round, but because of the metal stamping on the inner door I needed to square them off so they would fit properly. 

 

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I also added clearance depth for the inlaid tweeter by shimming the factory speaker grille with a trimmed out factory speaker grille to mount against the door panel. I trimmed the backside cardboard only area of the door panel so the shimmed speaker would have adequate clearance and would not 'bulge' the door panel when it is installed. Basically I carved out a diameter to clear 5.25". These speaker grilles will need to be mounted with a fender washer and screw instead of the factory push-on clip.

 

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