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Project: Scrapyard Save


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Well it was out of the garage under its own power.   New radiatior, cooling hoses, and heater core hoses.  No difference in running, but it’s nice not to have a leaky radiator.   I’m still waiting on the overflow bottle from amazon, and that project should be buttoned up.

 

I actually put about 5 miles on it, on Saturday, with little to no brakes and it seemed to run well, and shift very smoothly.

 

Next up is trying to figure out the brakes.

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Well cooling system is done.   It now has a open cooling system.   I found a overflow bottle for amazon for $10 that fit right next to the radiator.   Just had to move the fuel pump relay/resistor.    

 

After messing with with the brakes I’ve narrowed it down to the brake line the runs over the rear axle has a leak and is sucking air.   I can prove it a 100 percent, but the rest of the brake lines are new and all the fitting are tight.    So we will see if amazon wouldn’t of shipped it via snail mail I would know by now.   Not many pictures.   Here’s a pic of me running it with the new cooling system/hover Jeep.

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On 2/13/2019 at 7:29 PM, JMO413 said:

Very nice truck you found there. I think behind a barn would still count as a barn find. Jeeps are definitely an addiction, one is never enough. 

Thank you!   Yeah it’s growing on me the more I mess with it and I really want to get it on the road.   I know about the addiction.   I’ve got 4 jeeps right now, I had 6 at one point but am slowly selling them off and centering my interest on a couple instead of 4 or 5 huge project.s

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Still waiting on my brake line going on 10 days now from amazon.   So I’ve been Slowly cleaning it up.   After a couple of coats of wax, it does look halfway decent.    There is no clear coat on the hood or the roof, so it will be short lived, but it looks a lot better.     After brakes I need to get the new tail pipe installed, new windshield and plates/insurance to be on the road.   

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Well, new brake line arrived spent the night bleeding it again and no change.     I posted a question about it in tech, but I’m starting to think the master cylinder is done.     Irratic pressure to the rear, I’m fairly confident I got the air out as I’ve been thru almost a gallon on fluid now.

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1 hour ago, Pete M said:

are you using the rear prop valve?

Yes I am, and I am starting to regret it at this point.    I at about my witts end.   This was night three of bleeding brakes and no further.  

 

I also replaced the master as at 230k it seemed like a decent idea and was only $30.

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18 hours ago, Pete M said:

should be something in the link in my sig.  :L: 

Well ended up finding what I needed

 

 

I installed a new proportioning valve from a 89 xj.    The old one was completely rusted solid.   I’m fairly certain that it why it was parked originally.  So it now has a new master cylinder and all new brake lines. 

 

She stops on on a dime now.

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16 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

Good work. Good to hear you found the problem.

 

28 minutes ago, Pete M said:

:applause:excellent! 

Thanks guys after a week of pulling my hair out it stops.     Need to button up the new lines and remove the rear load leveling valve next is Kruisers electrical tips.

 

it actually looks good wet, it sat outside in the pouring rain for the last two hours while I cleaned up the garage.  

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Another night In the garage and it’s starting to come together.   First up we have a working stereo, which is a must.   The factory radio had some miles on it.    

 

Secondly started working king on cruisers grounding tips.    I now have working turn signals, and running lights.     I’ve got every light to work so it is legal to drive.

 

I need to replace the drivers front turn signal socket, but for the time being it is working.

 

Next up is ripping out the remainder of the P.O’s cb/ air horn wiring and hopefully figuring out the draw on the battery.    

 

Still need:

to register it

tune up

windshield

 

But I gotta wait til the Jeep fund builds back up before any major projects happen.

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Put about 20 miles on it around town today.    It runs and shifts and stops good.  But adding to the list of repair, as it keep growing.

 

-oil leaks (pretty major oil leak).  I believe is the valve cover gasket.   I snugged the bolts which several were just finger tight so hopefully that’s part of the problem.

-exhaust rattle.    The cat is rattling against the cross member.  I’m not sure if it has the same brakes like the xj a that hangs the cat.

-interior lighting (all of it is inop)

-steering wheel is off center

-brakes are pretty grabby, I think I’ve got the backs adjusted a little tight.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I’ve been putting miles on it trying to shake the bugs out lately.    It runs and drives decent.   -

After tightening the valve cover, I am no longer leaking oil.  

- the drivers window broke loose the corrosion and now rolls all the way up.

- New windshield goes in tomorrow ( I hope they don’t complain about the fuel leak and refuse.). 

 

the bad:

- when the gas tank is topped off, the sending unit leaks.   So have to figure that out.   I’ve already saved  the thread about new O rings.   But I think it also may be related to the metal rusting out.  (I put a new tank in it, and rebuilt the sending unit lowers already.). I posted a want add for a sending unit but unsure what the plan going forward is.

 

-The exhaust vibrates against the cross member.   It’s driving me nuts, I’ve unbolted and rebooted everything several times and can’t get it to stop.  The center cat mount is in place and every rubber mount is there, I’m thinking the center one is wore out.

 

- It needs a tire balance as it shakes anytime I’m over 65 mph.  They probably won’t balance due to the age of the tires.

 

 

 Bonus picture of the mustang crowd that decided I was cool enough to park next too.

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Well after wanting to get out in the garage tonight, but didn’t want to lay on the cold floor, I decided to do something about my fog lights.   The P.O. decided to weld cheap harbor freight lights on top of the factory brackets. I took the grinder out and deburing tool and managed to save the factory mounts.

 

While cleaning my garage I found a somewhat busted factory set of xj fogs that I was going to throw away.   Well after a night in the garage, “rebuilding” the factory fogs and installing, the front end looks much more complete.    Not to bad for no money spent.

 

You can see the P.O.’s handy work if you zoom into the snow picture.

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On 3/15/2019 at 11:54 PM, Lthompson741 said:

-The exhaust vibrates against the cross member.   It’s driving me nuts, I’ve unbolted and rebooted everything several times and can’t get it to stop.  The center cat mount is in place and every rubber mount is there, I’m thinking the center one is wore out

 

i wasn't even aware of a center mount till I took my truck in to add a flex joint up front.  The exhaust shop pointed it out  The rubber piece was still there, so they just welded a prong onto my pipe to go into it.  As you can see, I have no cat.  PO had removed it--which was fine by me.  You're talking about the center mount that I have pictured, correct (pic taken from back side of crossover facing forward)?

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I highly recommend a flex pipe installed as close as possible to the header downpipe.  My exhaust header was cracked in multiple places.  I had to do crack repairs and I even welded gussets between the 5th & 6th header primaries--where most of the stress cracks seem to appear.  The flex joint was insurance policy to prevent future header damage from vibration.  

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I dealt with a rattling exhaust for over a year.  It gets old, man.   I've found that it sure makes MJ ownership more enjoyable when you finally address those stupid little annoyances.   

 

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On 3/21/2019 at 8:54 AM, coolwind57 said:

 

i wasn't even aware of a center mount till I took my truck in to add a flex joint up front.  The exhaust shop pointed it out  The rubber piece was still there, so they just welded a prong onto my pipe to go into it.  As you can see, I have no cat.  PO had removed it--which was fine by me.  You're talking about the center mount that I have pictured, correct (pic taken from back side of crossover facing forward)?

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I highly recommend a flex pipe installed as close as possible to the header downpipe.  My exhaust header was cracked in multiple places.  I had to do crack repairs and I even welded gussets between the 5th & 6th header primaries--where most of the stress cracks seem to appear.  The flex joint was insurance policy to prevent future header damage from vibration.  

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I dealt with a rattling exhaust for over a year.  It gets old, man.   I've found that it sure makes MJ ownership more enjoyable when you finally address those stupid little annoyances.   

 

Yeah, I was looking at adding a flex pipe in the same location as yours.    I’ve welded all my pipe clamped joints together now, and the banging and clanging has gone away for the most part.  

 

Just removing the banging has added to the driving experience immensely, now I kinda want to drive it as it’s so quiet.

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