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On 1/12/2019 at 5:03 PM, 1989commanche said:

Looks great. They are a lot of work but worth it. 

You’re right even if it makes my blood boil every once in a while :thanks:

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On 1/7/2019 at 7:53 AM, Pete M said:

that headlight relay upgrade is one of the best mods!  :D 

Yup, read a few threads about how the headlight switch could catch on fire and I didn’t want to risk that . I’ve been trying to add grounds and clean up the wiring and improve any weak spots . Eventually this one will be the dd and I want to eliminate any potential problems . 

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Looks like a very nice truck for $900. That carpet looks like new, good work.

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I see you swapped in the 3 spoke wheel, what all did you have to grab to do the swap? Also, does your horn work on it? I’ve been wanting to swap a 3 spoke wheel into mine, but want to make sure the horn will work when it’s all said and done.


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16 hours ago, SatiricalHen said:

I see you swapped in the 3 spoke wheel, what all did you have to grab to do the swap? Also, does your horn work on it? I’ve been wanting to swap a 3 spoke wheel into mine, but want to make sure the horn will work when it’s all said and done.


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Yes my horn works . You just need to grab all the little pieces from the vehicle that you’re getting the wheel from since the horn mechanisms are different with the 2 spoke and the 3 spoke wheels. Here’s a diagram and a thread on this subject which will help you out. 

:holdwrench:

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My knowledge of all of these columns and steering components are GM/Saginaw as far back as the 70's jeeps.  I don't know if Chrysler changed anything after the buyout and then later with the 95/6/7-01 changes

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I was recently dealing with a problem with the radio and turn signal and accessories not working intermittently. The accessories would go out for a few seconds and then come back on and it was getting worse sometimes leading to the whole truck stalling.  From the research I gathered it seemed like a potential ignition switch going bad. So I ordered a new ignition switch and and new ignition starter relay just for good measure. The relay was super easy and while I was at it I cleaned up the wires going to it. The ignition switch was a learning process with getting it adjusted just right. All is good now and the voltage gauge seems to read better now too :L:9C0C38CC-1F07-4ABC-95DE-E892D7A37F4E.jpeg.0655d52002bddac6b488687f060cc627.jpeg0B66C50C-22FC-439B-BC30-CD767A9D2947.jpeg.1fe612abb004cc85132fc19ad000c6f9.jpegF0428935-BA57-440B-8838-32437733CB52.jpeg.26b617cafc52f29b2c06a8ba255431cd.jpegthere didn’t seem to be any burnt connectors. The only thing wrong that I found with it was that the return spring seemed weak.  F0428935-BA57-440B-8838-32437733CB52.jpeg.26b617cafc52f29b2c06a8ba255431cd.jpeg

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The rear brake hardware has also been replaced. I had a suspicion that some of the hardware in there was going to be broken and yup , I was right. I even got lucky and had the passenger side wheel cylinder start leaking. So I also had to replace the wheel cylinders. I left the brake shoes because they still had a lot of material left on them. :scholar:

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Been daily driving to work and it’s much better than before. Next up is replacing the driveshaft u joints and re doing the cooling system. 

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Well got the drive shaft u joints done today. Still haven’t take it on a test drive. I need to get a grease gun to grease up the the new u joints. Old u joints were done for. The grease was rock hard and some of them were rusted inside. Hopefully this cure my vibration problem. 

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Cooling system update: 

finally got to work on the Comanche , working as a tech leaves me not wanting to do anything with cars somedays but I still enjoy enjoy wrenching on the Comanche and the wife’s wj most of the time :holdwrench:

the items I replaced were 

water pump-gates replacement 

thermostat- oem mopar 

Fan clutch - Hayden replacement 

91+ thermostat housing 

97+ heater tube 

lower radiator hose-gates replacement 

idler pulley-Gates replacement 

 

   Everything went on perfectly and I’m happy with the performance of the cooling system. I’m going to drain and refill the water with actual antifreeze In the next few days. I just wanted to run her a while and check for leaks. 

 

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This explains why the engine never warmed up and why I had poor heater performance

    Stuck open thermostat 

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This is probably why had a small drip under the water pump. This is the original unit most likely , it even has the oem amc markings. 

    fan clutch was pretty shot too and was covered in oil. The new Hayden units can be heard when engaged at works perfectly to bring the temp down when at idle. :L:

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Well I knew my fuse block wasn’t In the best shape. I’ve been putting this off since I bought the truck 2 years ago so I finally ordered some fuse pins. 

Taking apart the fuse block wasn’t to bad. 

This fuse  connector was done for. This one is for the brake lights. I’m currently working little by little. It gets really hot here in Vegas pretty quickly and I work on it during dawn and sunset.

 7FC4D6B2-2897-42E2-A6D5-4BD7EBB97001.jpeg.8f17fff8827b32695f7a8d337ffb3a0d.jpeg

ECAFC5B7-F4C4-489C-8C29-40A19EF4A3CD.jpeg.11e48204ca736f7cd3861bb5919d269a.jpeg7B900BEB-2207-467B-A44A-579F97991089.jpeg.6a526802921244d2dab12b79d09ebc11.jpegill keep updating this. I need to replace the other pins on the fuse block and I will update with the finished product :L:

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Made sure to clean the fuse block connector to avoid any future problems. 

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57CD6C11-4578-4F54-B994-753F49D6B677.jpeg.eabd331a13f33240717783ac9a951585.jpegput it all back together, everything is working as it should :holdwrench:

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