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College Budget 1987 MJ Build


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I had that same problem when I had the Ravine wheels on. Should work fine with the Moabs too:   "There's another way if you don't want change knuckles (I didn't). You can't buy the OEM caps

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Seems like a clocking ring might be a simple solution.

I don’t know why I never thought about that. I’ll need to do some measuring to see how thick of a ring I can use while still having seal and spline engagement. Thanks, I’ll look into it!


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10 hours ago, SatiricalHen said:


I don’t know why I never thought about that. I’ll need to do some measuring to see how thick of a ring I can use while still having seal and spline engagement. Thanks, I’ll look into it!


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Sometimes it's hard to see the forest for the trees.

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I would take them apart and run a tape measure over the bits to see what's up.  :L:  if the input shaft is too long (that's what she said) I imagine you can trim it a bit. 

 

 

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I would take them apart and run a tape measure over the bits to see what's up.  :L:  if the input shaft is too long (that's what she said) I imagine you can trim it a bit. 
 
 

Yeah I just haven’t gotten a chance to do it yet. I’ve been busy with school stuff and they’re stored in a 4runner at a friend’s house.


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The more stuff I remember “I should do while I’m at it” is getting expensive. Now I’m doing a clutch and flywheel, control arm bushings, trans mount, ball joints, and adding cruise control.


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Ordered a batch of parts from rock auto, going to hopefully find a rear driveshaft that will fit it this weekend, then I’ll be ready for the swap. I currently have a bigger diameter pilot and I’m going to a smaller pilot. Is one more desirable than the other? I haven’t ever seen any threads about someone breaking the tip off the input shaft.


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Got a couple boxes full of parts from rock auto today. One of the items I ordered said both driver and passenger control arm bushings, but it only came with one so I filled out their form thing and should be getting the right thing Tuesday. I have a small pilot trans so the bearing that came with the external slave clutch kit won’t work so I’ll need to go to the parts store and get one of those I guess. Other than that things are coming together pretty well. Should be getting the rear driveshaft this weekend if I can find one with the right measurement at the junkyard.


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So looking at the trans and tcase issue closer, in order to get the seal surface to engage and the 242 to fully mate I need to cut the output shaft on the ax-15. The output bottoms out in the tcase. I found a driveshaft that should probably work, and a tcase shifter assembly. Need to decide what linkage I want to use thinking about boostwerks or azzy possibly.


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I have learned a decent bit about Jeep transfer cases in the last 3 hours and have now come to the conclusion that the tcase has a collar in the input so I will have to disassemble the tcase, pull the input out and knock the collar out then put it back together which is really going to eat into my time for the 1 day swap I was hoping to complete. May end up doing the tcase stuff Friday and then the rest of the swap Saturday. Below is a chunk from a post I was reading about the 242 and hopefully it’s the cause of my issues. 60B6B951-0E94-4FCE-A387-32BB7C31B3DE.jpeg.1da2d76cb435a1c778e85cad65bd35b8.jpeg

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So when I’m done 4wd swapping my Comanche it’ll have the original renix block, head from a 92ish Cherokee, intake from 99 Cherokee, AC from a 95 Cherokee, oil filter adapter from some later model Cherokee, LS valve springs, computer from a 90 Cherokee, front axle from a 93 Cherokee, bellhousing from a TJ nv3550, trans from a YJ, tcase from a ZJ, rear axle from a 97+ Cherokee, wheels from a TJ, and one piece windows from a 97+ Cherokee. Is there an award for the most cobbled together pile from as many vehicles as possible? I’m sure there’s more random little things from various other jeeps in there too. If I had to count the number of jeeps involved in making my Comanche what it is, I would need more fingers and toes.


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6 minutes ago, SatiricalHen said:

So when I’m done 4wd swapping my Comanche it’ll have the original renix block, head from a 92ish Cherokee, intake from 99 Cherokee, AC from a 95 Cherokee, oil filter adapter from some later model Cherokee, LS valve springs, computer from a 90 Cherokee, front axle from a 93 Cherokee, bellhousing from a TJ nv3550, trans from a YJ, tcase from a ZJ, rear axle from a 97+ Cherokee, wheels from a TJ, and one piece windows from a 97+ Cherokee. Is there an award for the most cobbled together pile from as many vehicles as possible? I’m sure there’s more random little things from various other jeeps in there too. If I had to count the number of jeeps involved in making my Comanche what it is, I would need more fingers and toes.


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you have to find the average of all those years and then call your jeep a 19 whatever and a half

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OOOOOO, I'll play! I have:

86 XJ front axle

2002 Explorer Sport Trac rear axle

84 XJ door

96 XJ engine

97 XJ transmission

96 XJ transfer case

?? MJ tailgate

?? MJ sportbar (soon to install)

?? MJ sliding rear window

?? OEM front skidplate (soon to install)

88 MJ bucket seats and other parts

Along with plenty brand new parts

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On 2/21/2021 at 11:40 AM, SatiricalHen said:

So looking at the trans and tcase issue closer, in order to get the seal surface to engage and the 242 to fully mate I need to cut the output shaft on the ax-15. The output bottoms out in the tcase. I found a driveshaft that should probably work, and a tcase shifter assembly. Need to decide what linkage I want to use thinking about boostwerks or azzy possibly.


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doesn't someone somewhere sell a spacer?  novak?

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doesn't someone somewhere sell a spacer?  novak?

Post after that one I learned there is a collar in the input of the tcase so tomorrow I’m taking the tcase apart and knocking the collar out so the output from the trans can go into the input fully. A spacer/clocking ring wouldn’t work in this situation though because the trans and tcase weren’t even mating far enough for the trans to seal onto the input shaft.


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I got the collar out of the input and the trans and tcase can fully mate now. Tomorrow she’ll go into surgery and hopefully come out AWD/4wd. Here’s a picture of the collar I had to take the whole tcase apart to get out41B3C0AE-CC31-4998-9038-FB95C4E74DA6.jpeg.0f25c2defeb86648f64881941efb1e63.jpeg

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Well that went about as bad as it could go, the first ax-15 had some nasty fluid come out so I had to drive an hour and 20 minutes to my parents house to grab the spare one, the spare one turned out to have been remanufactured in 2003 after we sprayed all the grime off. There was a black widow in the rotor on the d30, the exhaust was made when it was 2wd and the pinion hit the o2 sensor when we let it down and broke it off, the front driveshaft obviously won’t fit, the transfercase is seeping just a little at the seam, the starter sounds like it is very very faintly grinding in a couple spots of the new flywheel, the new trans mount is just as low as the last one so the exhaust mount still hits the crossmember, but the ax-15 and 242 fit with just a tiny amount of hammer work. Oh yeah it has death wobble over 30 mph now too so it’s basically a completely undriveable, more complex 2wd comanche. Went 100% in the wrong direction


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6 hours ago, SatiricalHen said:

Went 100% in the wrong direction.

For now. Every problem is fixable with a little work.

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For now. Every problem is fixable with a little work.

Yeah, I’ll get it fixed, just sucks so much went wrong. I didn’t expect it to be smooth sailing, but man did it go south fast


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Sometimes it just works out that way. Pretty disheartening when it does. It has happened to all of us, you'll get through it.

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Got to my buddy’s shop Friday morning, started with checking if the track bar hole was wallowed out. Bolt measured 9.7mm hole was 11.3mm so I drilled it to 1/2” and made a flag nut and thought boom easy done. Nope, the nut must have warped or something when I welded the flag on and it seized to the bolt once the threads broke through the back side and I ended up having to saw the bolt off and go buy a new one. There was a trip to harbor freight so my buddy could get a press and a trip for lunch as well thrown in there. Get the bolt and nut finally working, took it for a test drive to the parts store to get a part for my buddy. Three or so bouts of less violent death wobble and we made it to the parts store, so then we headed back and smoke started billowing out of the truck and we thought the clutch was smoked. Turns out the left front brake was dragging just enough to really heat up. Turns out there were 99+ rotors on the axle with pre 99 unit bearings so then I had to swap some used unit bearings my buddy had onto the truck and I did a tape measure alignment. Drove it around the block with no wobble after hitting bumps. Got back and helped work on another friends transfercase swap, then successfully drove it 30 minutes home without a wobble.

Still need to fix the starter slightly grinding, the tcase seeps so little I won’t worry about that for a while, the tcase linkage, the exhaust stuff, even with a new trans mount the exhaust hanger is hitting the crossmember and waiting on speedo stuff to get here for the speedometer to work. The tie rod ends all feel pretty tight, but they’re probably still factory so I’m thinking about replacing them since the boots are pretty hard and probably not in very good condition anymore. So I took a functioning truck with very minor very ignorable problems and made it so much worse, but maybe hopefully soon it’ll be great and reliable again.


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