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SatiricalHen

College Budget 1987 MJ Build

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8 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

 

Must be. Never seen it happen using the defroster though. You must have a good one.  :D

It wasn't on any of my jeeps, but the funny thing is it happened twice on the same vehicle in opposite directions! I got a rock hit on the driver lower side and 2 months later I used the defroster on a winter morning and it ran almost all the way to the passenger side... 2 years later got a rock hit on the passenger side and wife borrowed the car to drive to jersey and coming back she turned on the defroster and it ran to the driver side! Dump trucks around here are the worst, that or I have the worst luck...

 

Local windshield guy knows me by first name now... he did my old Nissan (2 rock hits), my Hyundai twice (above) and my wives RAV4 (3 rock hits). Gonna have him do the MJ next summer, he quoted me $90 installed, it already has two spider cracks that were there when I bought it. (Sorry for the hijack @SatiricalHen)

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5 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

 

Must be. Never seen it happen using the defroster though. You must have a good one.  :D

 

Happens a lot actually.  The windshield will take a chip or have small crack near the edge during the summer and it will go unnoticed until the first cold morning when you turn the defroster on.  You can actually catch it as it spreads and "push" the crack to change the direction and force it back to the edge, otherwise often it will crack from one end of the windshield to the other.

 

The joys of winter.

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No damage at all before the crack happened, just a harsh cold snap then warmed up pretty quick that day. Happened out of the blue. I’ve tried 4 different temp senders, including the one that came out of the Cherokee I got the gauge cluster from. Tried 2 stock ones and 2 aftermarket ones. None have read close to right. I’ve used an IR gun on the thermostat housing and I got 180 one day (hadn’t been idling long, but the gauge hadn’t even moved really so I didn’t waste my time) another day I let it idle for 20 minutes and it got to 195 but the gauge was still at the first click. Got the tag this morning and drove it 2 hours to move stuff into my apartment at school and made it back to my parents house fine,but it hesitated a touch around 2000 rpms when cruising or gently accelerating (figured it could just be the old gas in it so I was trying to just use it all up) then ran to the parts store to return one of the coolant temp sending unit and then on the way back it was hesitating really bad and felt like it was going to die. I made it back home though and I ran back to the parts store in the Cherokee and got a fuel pressure gauge and a new fuel filter (figured I might as well grab it since I have to go back to the store anyway and I could just return it) well I got back and tested the fuel pressure 29 psi idling and drops to mid 20s when I gave it gas. Replaced the fuel filter and here is the color of the gas that came out a6ee2db9150ac570641555234f2fdf02.jpg. Then I took it for a test drive and it still hesitates at 2000 rpms and I’ve put 3/4 a tank of gas in it so it’s mostly fresh gas now. So I’m not sure exactly where to look for the issue. If I am gently accelerating or cruising there is the hesitation and miss at 2000 rpm, but if I rip on it from a stop it will go to redline without hesitation. I’m stumped and I really don’t have the money to throw parts at it hoping it’ll fix it. It’s driveable like it is, but obviously would love to get it running perfect.


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Also, forgot to reply to the bleeding question. Clutch pedal was bent very very slightly (should’ve taken a comparison picture) a buddy of mine has a Comanche he auto swapped so he gave me his clutch pedal and good as new. Shifts great now.


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10 hours ago, SatiricalHen said:

No damage at all before the crack happened, just a harsh cold snap then warmed up pretty quick that day. Happened out of the blue. I’ve tried 4 different temp senders, including the one that came out of the Cherokee I got the gauge cluster from. Tried 2 stock ones and 2 aftermarket ones. None have read close to right. I’ve used an IR gun on the thermostat housing and I got 180 one day (hadn’t been idling long, but the gauge hadn’t even moved really so I didn’t waste my time) another day I let it idle for 20 minutes and it got to 195 but the gauge was still at the first click. Got the tag this morning and drove it 2 hours to move stuff into my apartment at school and made it back to my parents house fine,but it hesitated a touch around 2000 rpms when cruising or gently accelerating (figured it could just be the old gas in it so I was trying to just use it all up) then ran to the parts store to return one of the coolant temp sending unit and then on the way back it was hesitating really bad and felt like it was going to die. I made it back home though and I ran back to the parts store in the Cherokee and got a fuel pressure gauge and a new fuel filter (figured I might as well grab it since I have to go back to the store anyway and I could just return it) well I got back and tested the fuel pressure 29 psi idling and drops to mid 20s when I gave it gas. Replaced the fuel filter and here is the color of the gas that came out a6ee2db9150ac570641555234f2fdf02.jpg. Then I took it for a test drive and it still hesitates at 2000 rpms and I’ve put 3/4 a tank of gas in it so it’s mostly fresh gas now. So I’m not sure exactly where to look for the issue. If I am gently accelerating or cruising there is the hesitation and miss at 2000 rpm, but if I rip on it from a stop it will go to redline without hesitation. I’m stumped and I really don’t have the money to throw parts at it hoping it’ll fix it. It’s driveable like it is, but obviously would love to get it running perfect.


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Sounds like the tps needs to be adjusted 

or needs a new one

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Cleaned the iac and throttle body, adjusted the tps and took it for another test drive. Definitely needed cleaning and it idles much smoother and at 750 rpms instead of 250. Still a slight stumble around 2000 rpms but if I put my foot on the floor it’ll go away.15aecf6410c44aba3a9f9bfe3d4b191f.jpg13b4c29ea2400d669b6a63ef829fac18.jpg


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1 hour ago, SatiricalHen said:

Cleaned the iac and throttle body, adjusted the tps and took it for another test drive. Definitely needed cleaning and it idles much smoother and at 750 rpms instead of 250. Still a slight stumble around 2000 rpms but if I put my foot on the floor it’ll go away.

 

ooh, good timing.  I'm fixin' to do mine hopefully this weekend.  Any advise on cleaning that sucker?  Toothbrush and can of carb cleaner or did you dip it or do something else?  Any other disassembly on it?  

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ooh, good timing.  I'm fixin' to do mine hopefully this weekend.  Any advise on cleaning that sucker?  Toothbrush and can of carb cleaner or did you dip it or do something else?  Any other disassembly on it?  

If I had the money I’d buy a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner. We had one at a lawn mower shop I worked at one summer and that thing worked wonders. I am broke as joke so I took a can of cleaner and a tooth brush and went to town for a while. Not too bad, just was really cold holding it this morning and it was a little time consuming since mine was so nasty.


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3 hours ago, SatiricalHen said:


If I had the money I’d buy a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner. We had one at a lawn mower shop I worked at one summer and that thing worked wonders. I am broke as joke so I took a can of cleaner and a tooth brush and went to town for a while. Not too bad, just was really cold holding it this morning and it was a little time consuming since mine was so nasty.


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Anything that could be harmed inside, or just passageways and nooks/crannys?  I'd hate to dissolve something critical in there by dipping in a strong solvent.

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Anything that could be harmed inside, or just passageways and nooks/crannys?  I'd hate to dissolve something critical in there by dipping in a strong solvent.

As far as I know books and crannys. I don’t want to be the reason something gets ruined though.


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Still stumbling and I’m kinda stumped as to what it could be. I’m trying to just keep on doing some little maintenance things hoping something will clear it up. Been refreshing grounds and cleaning stuff up and doing what I can. I really want one of the in dash renix engine monitors so I can see what the sensors and such are saying when it’s having the issue.


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On 12/27/2017 at 9:45 PM, SatiricalHen said:

....got a fuel pressure gauge and a new fuel filter (figured I might as well grab it since I have to go back to the store anyway and I could just return it) well I got back and tested the fuel pressure 29 psi idling and drops to mid 20s when I gave it gas.

 

Those fuel pressure numbers, could this be a stuck fuel pressure regulator? Check hose from FPR to manifold.

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Replaced the spark plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, and fuel filter today. Wires come in tomorrow so I’ll get those in too. Started rust repair since I got some metal to make patches with today. I may have bitten off more than I can chew. I have to fix all the rust, install and wire lights on my dad’s car, pack my stuff up, and get my motorcycle ready before going back to college on Sunday (7th). We’ll see how this all goes. Any suggestions for cutting/welding near the brake and gas lines. Very concerned about it. Anywho here are some pictures of the things done today.b1a8d5384d4c158ebdb24022d5179541.jpg964f8d3624c0def569eafbd6d09bf45d.jpg32eb758952cb566ce5a80c218dc13373.jpgf239efd093ffc32d09a85c96dc831138.jpgc02af38184cbb0cdacc1e5d8741d4422.jpg711063c20c1a2bcfbda8fa39fc191773.jpg2e51eb1d005fad6416846b6f9453c0ab.jpg also, not sure if I mentioned here or not, but I replaced the “thermostat” or what is left of one yesterday and flushed the cooling system the best I could. It was 21 degrees out so it did freeze the water that I got all over the edge of the driveway I was working on. 2491c1af7a84a20c158dadfa71a6c88a.jpg24551075ab9ebc60e349ceeabb776074.jpg


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d83625909e50566f8b1d3c36ac0f214d.jpgeb14f342f0ad7ab5657ca717ebc17167.jpg2f7d932cdd9907f7a4110cbccad6448c.jpg80478c87682d76917b3c0bb472be1520.jpg
Not sure how to repair this rust spot. Honestly don’t think I can without removing the dash and I’m not sure if I have the time to get it out and back in before going back to college. This fuse box is soaked in brake fluid and it’s really just getting destroyed. Neglect is a terrible thing. Also the new duracrap master cylinder is leaking after 200 or so miles.


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Yea, I don't think I'd bother testing that thermostat.  Might be better to just replace it.   haha!

 

Feeling your pain on this project, my brother.  But you have to admit:  This stuff is kind of fun!

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You can carefully unclip the brake and gas lines and move them over a bit.  Also, buy a fireproof welding blanket (or a couple) and stuff one between the lines and where you're working.  They're also good for covering other things you don't want damaged.

 

Change out that leaking master cylinder ASAP.  You don't want to damage the fuse block any more than it already is.

 

Good luck on the rust repairs.  It will be a big job.  You might be better off just riveting some pieces in for now and seam sealing it, until you have time to take things completely apart.  You're going to need a whole new floor pan on the driver's side to fix that correctly...

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Got the panels welded in. I still have stuff on the fire wall I didn’t have time to completely do. I painted everything and sealed everything best I could. Definitely less road noise and more heat staying in. I’d like to tear it apart when I have a lot of time and get it done better, but I stopped as much of the rust as I could. I got the master replaced and I think my cat is bad. I hear a rattle coming from that area now and then, and it seems to lack highway power and get less than optimal gas mileage. Doing plugs, wires, cap and rotor helped a lot though. Still doesn’t like to do 70+ on the highway. Occasionally having to shift to 3rd to keep up.


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Backup transportation?  :brows:

Easier around campus. Commuter car parking is a 15 minute walk if you can find a spot in a decent amount of time. My bike I can park within a 2 minute walk of any of my classes. I just didn’t really care to ride it back in the cold weather if I don’t have to, a 5 minute ride to campus is much different than an hour ride to school when it’s 30* Also, I had my girlfriend drove my Cherokee back home for me last semester and I rode my motorcycle and she doesn’t know how to drive stick so it would make getting my truck and bike to school harder.


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