Jump to content

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, NHMJXJ said:

Ugg

 

 

 

Just so others know what you are Ugg-ing about. :L:

 

For me it was quite a satisfying experience......almost like I needed a smoke afterwards. :wink:

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I watched it end to end.  My thought was that poor owner probably just topped the tank off and couldn't figure out where the smell was coming from until they saw flames!

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I look for any product, I look to buy the quality that I can afford. I posted earlier here that I bought a cheap battery just to get by while the truck sat, that I did not want to get good battery until the truck was ready for the road. Well, the temporary battery would not hold a charge for a week. 

I definitely wanted a dual purpose AGM. I read countless reviews, searched many other truck/car sites, compared prices, store brands vs name brands.....etc.....Optima is out of the question. 

I chose NorthStar. 

Online the NorthStar came with a 4 year warranty, for less money through Batteriesplus it came with a 5 year free replacement warranty. Plus I have a brick and mortar store that I can actually take it to. 

The difference in starting power is amazing.

I made certain it was topped-off before I installed it. 

 

CQJSMAf.jpg

 

vQlBlne.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The inside of my bed will never be seen nor used to haul anything. Tonneau cover. I'll likely go with the Downey and then later find a hard cover that I can cut to fit and have covered with black vinyl....ie.......'vinyl hardtop'.

I really don't care what it looks like but it has to be clean for the black Raptor to stick. 

This brush makes quick work of it. You'll need a variable speed grinder, my Milwaukee grinders are just too fast, this elcheapo works OK @ 2000rpm.

 

Ncba8vW.jpg

 

 

My '86 fuel sender came a while ago, now I need to determine which pump and regulator I'll use, probably Aeromotive. 

 

iS84qsM.jpg

 

 

I got my final block sanding and priming done this weekend. Other than one little area I need to address, my bodywork is done.

 

UOLCcMM.jpg

 

Ready to be wet sanded and painted. 

 

Xb9FFHW.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was wondering what your plans for it were. It is going to be to nice to use as a work truck. Can't wait to see the final results. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, kansashogan said:

I was wondering what your plans for it were. It is going to be to nice to use as a work truck. Can't wait to see the final results. 

 

Personal satisfaction. 

 

Wife and I like to take one night escapes when we can. By the time I get this truck done my son will be driving (and old enough) and we can leave him for a night while we get away. 

This truck will see a lot of back roads and small towns. 

 

Pigeon Forge has a few Cruise-ins every year. You'll find everything there from rat rods to muscle cars to muscle trucks to 4Xs to diesels to euro-trash........I'll fit right in. 

 

 

Bodywork and paint has taken a toll on me.........can't wait to get on the fun stuff. Interior is the next project and I'm still looking for a V8 and still undecided. LS engine is still being considered, I'm doing my homework. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/8/2019 at 9:28 AM, Jeep Driver said:

Optima is out of the question. 

I chose NorthStar. 

Online the NorthStar came with a 4 year warranty, for less money through Batteriesplus it came with a 5 year free replacement warranty. Plus I have a brick and mortar store that I can actually take it to. 

The difference in starting power is amazing.

I agree with the optima batteries. Had crappy luck with them. Only reason I have it in my Jeep is because I paid $26 for a used one and then they gave me a brand new one! They just thought it would be easier to swap it out?? I feel a score there.

 

I will have to look into the Northstar batteries  for the other Jeep. Thanks ! 
 

keep posting your progress. :beerchug:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Third time is a charm :sad2: but I'm getting there. 

I got a new spray gun and that helped out a lot. 

 

jjoV2dE.jpg

 

mhaBEzF.jpg

 

9q3erLi.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two more coats of clear.........got it this time.

Next week I'll cut-n-buff and begin cleaning the inside for bed liner. 

 

NFtvHi7.jpg

 

xzDwjbQ.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. 

 

 

 

I was asked this question last week-

 

Quote

 

My question for you is in regards to your 88 Evolution post where you showed how you eliminated the fusible links on your MJ (that was a very impressive build thread by the way, you have inspired me to eventually do my own paint job). Do you mind sending me a picture or explaining how exactly you wired in the Ford battery fuse? I have tried to figure it out myself but I haven’t been able to find much info online aside from your post, and I would hate to burn things up if I make a mistake. Has the battery fuse worked well for you or given you any problems? I’m deciding between wiring in an engine bay fuse box from a mid 90s Cherokee, or trying to figure out your fusible link delete to clean up the engine bay wiring a bit. 

Thank you and again I’m sorry for bothering you

 

 

I intended to do a short vid to describe what I did and why I did it.........but...........

 

 

There are battery mounted fuses in different configurations and values, the Ford fuse seemed most logical to me. 

 

Fused links- What are the values? Do the values change with length? Do the values change over time? IOWs, Will new fuse be more apt to burn more quickly than a 32 year old fuse, or vice versa? 

Seems that no one has an answer. 

 

Cluster F---? I've done it, I see it done here......everywhere.......

Top post battery with 13 different wires bolted to the cable clamp.......another circuit.....eh, what's one more wire?

 

Zero complaints, short to ground, truck burns?

Recently someone complained of the headlight switch melting down, took the connector too. Common problem, what's not a common complaint is a burnt fused link. 

So, how reliable are Links?

Not at all in my opinion, opinion based on evidence.

 

Only two circuits I'm aware of that are always hot and not ran through the fuse block are the ignition circuit and the headlight circuit, everything else is protected by the fuse block. 

 

One wire shorts to ground- will it bring down the all five circuits? Possible. But then, if your ignition circuit shorts..........you are SOL anyway. 

 

Two fused posts, on the left is the 200 amp post, alt is connected there.

Right is the 100 amp post, five circuits connected there, one lug (what used to be the fused links). 

Center to starter relay......this is unchanged from original. 

 

I'm not suggesting anyone do anything-

If your existing wiring is a rats nest, if you are not competent or you believe you are not competent to diagnose or run down a problem circuit, if you don't understand how your truck is wired, if you are not interested in learning, if it's just not your bag.........leave it alone. 

 

Mindset- I read it here a lot  -"it's not how the factory did it"-. 

I could not give two S----s what a defunct company did 32 years ago. 

None of us have concours worthy trucks and even if one exists it ain't worth what you think it is. 

That mindset is a faulty one. 

 

Does it work? Yes, it works.  

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

Mindset- I read it here a lot  -"it's not how the factory did it"-. 

I could not give two S----s what a defunct company did 32 years ago. 

None of us have concours worthy trucks and even if one exists it ain't worth what you think it is. 

That mindset is a faulty one. 

 

Does it work? Yes, it works.  

Amen to that. That is what it should be about. These trucks were kinda a hodgepodge of all makes anyway. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sealed all seams with seam sealer.

Primed with black epoxy primer.

 

zbhCvoW.jpg

 

 

Raptor Liner.

 

mAbJqkt.jpg

 

MZbgOjD.jpg

 

mQDH32g.jpg

 

 

 

Bedsides have been cut and buffed and waxed. 

Next week bed will be ready to reinstall. 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was going to mount the bed this weekend but lousy weather yesterday.....so.........

 

I painted the trims black and extended wires.

cvcs2AY.jpg

 

These lights rely on the housing bolts/nuts as a ground....you know I won't accept that. Tinned with flux and silver bearing solder first, then with rosin core, sticks well. 

wr9jJBh.jpg

 

Ran new harness from the cab to the rear. I'm waiting on connectors that I ordered. 12 pin at the end of this harness, through body plug as original, then to three sets of plugs, -left- -right- -7 pin trailer plug-. Each will have it's own independent harness/plug. That is why you see multiple wires....home runs through the 12 pin, then separated out among the three plugs.

I chose to go with the traditional GM colors, also I have one extra back-up wire that will go to my hideaway back-up lights. 

4ZG1MWl.jpg

 

I'm picking up the rest of the SS hardware this week for the tailgate........and now that I have time, I'll mount the bed with new SS nuts/bolts. 

In the mean time I'm tumbling the tailgate brackets and mechanisms, should clean up nice for paint. 

gUQ0NQi.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/26/2020 at 2:55 PM, Jeep Driver said:

Sealed all seams with seam sealer.

Primed with black epoxy primer.

 

zbhCvoW.jpg

 

 

Raptor Liner.

 

mAbJqkt.jpg

 

MZbgOjD.jpg

 

mQDH32g.jpg

 

 

 

Bedsides have been cut and buffed and waxed. 

Next week bed will be ready to reinstall. 

 

 

 

Raptor liner is awesome stuff. So easy to lay down. Looking really good!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the process of putting the connectors on. Soldered, of course. 

Can be found here and for the money these are very nice connectors- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weatherproof-Automotive-Connector-Set-3-pin-Male-Female-20Amps-20-14AWG-E38B/262453109442?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Seller also has other connectors in his store. 

 

IWffk1G.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tedious and time consuming. 

But I want it clean and right. 

I used an awl to open up the hole in the body plug/grommet, then forced a piece of 3/8 brass tubing in the hole, ran the wire through the tubing, pulled out the tubing, wire is tight in the hole just like it was. 

 

I mentioned in someone else's thread about being nickle and dime'd to death. Wire, loom, connectors, bolts and nuts, solder.......all that you see here, just the get the lights wired and bed bolted back down.....just over $200, bolts alone were $42. 

 

HpdtS9H.jpg

 

tli6JEZ.jpg

 

BCHPVYS.jpg

 

I went to NAPA today to get some loom clips........won't even tell you what they expected me to pay, special order with freight. 

I really have no respect for parts stores and mindless counter boys............none! Idiots. 

 

So, off to ebay I go, again. 

 

m4RJs6v.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...