Ignition switch?

[moparbrown]

I think I may need to replace my ignition switch? Just wanted to see if anyone knew for sure before I start tearing stuff apart.

 

The problem: the truck starts and runs fine but certain components will randomly and sporadically quit working. Radio, turn signals, wipers, "air". They will work if I put pressure on my key like the picture below but cut in and out randomly.

I was looking through cruisers tips and somehow ended up at a video of replacing the ignition switch and thought that might be the fix. Anyone else had these issues?

 

Truck is a 91 4.0 Manual 2x4 with 225k - seems pretty stock. *Things to possibly consider: PO had wired in a 3way cigarette lighter that I recently uninstalled- just put electrical tape over the ends of the wires. I also just put in a new head unit (stereo) but reused the wiring harness. Issues were present before the head unit install and I'm not sure about before the cigarette lighter uninstall. Truck previously chose which days it wanted to have functioning heat, but that could unrelated altogether.

 

 

 

91 4.0 Manual 2X4 Shortbed with 225k

St. Louis MO

[HOrnbrod]

Did you try to align the rod?
 

Ignition switch alignment:



Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning
On non-tilt columns:
Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.
Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).

On tilt columns:
Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.
Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Install any components removed for switch access.

[cruiser54]

The switch is most likely burned at the brown wire terminal. 

[moparbrown]

Did you try to align the rod?

 

Ignition switch alignment:

 

 

Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning

On non-tilt columns:

Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.

Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).

On tilt columns:

Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.

Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).

Install any components removed for switch access.

Not yet, I wanted to get input if the ignition switch is likely the culprit or if it could be something else, but I will definitely try that before replacing! I don't have a ton of experience with fixing vehicles so I'm not confident in my diagnosis. *screenshotting that diagram tho!!

 

 

91 4.0 Manual 2X4 Shortbed with 225k

St. Louis MO

[HOrnbrod]

LIke the Renix guy said it could be burnt contacts on the switch and/or it's connector, but not the brown wire since there isn't one on the HO switch. Check the linkage first especially if you have to fool with the ignition key to get things to work.

[cruiser54]

You'll see the burn marks at the same time. 

[johnj92131]

FWIW department,   Back in 2008/9....I had an ignition switch problem with the 91. The old switch was burned at several contacts.  The replacement switch has not given me a problem since.