Custom Wiring Questions

[Dzimm]

So I am running an auxiliary fuse box for my accessories and am working on the wiring.  I have put together some wiring diagrams for me to keep track of the wires and these should help you to visualize what I am dealing with.  My main question I have is if it is okay to use the same fuse to run both the power to the relay and to the switch.  You will see in my diagrams that I have it wired this way.  Sorry about the color changes but the wiring changes

color a couple times.

 

This first one is for the fog lights.  They are a pair of 6" 1amp 18watt LED lights.  The switch I am using is an aftermarket rocker switch designed to look like a factory XJ switch.  I can't find any info on the power draw nor will the seller I got it from respond to emails.  I can't imagine that it has much power draw and feel safe assuming it may draw like 1A at the absolute most.  **Please correct me if I am wrong**  Assuming it is 1A, I should be fine running a 5A fuse to run both the lights and the switch (the 10A in the diagram is just what I had on hand).

 

This one here is similar to above but running a single 20" LED bar rated at 126W and 10.9A.  For this one I plan to reuse the factory rear defrost switch to control the light.  I am also assuming that this switch will draw at most 1A. **again correct me if I am wrong**  In this case a 15A fuse should be enough to support the light and the switch.

 

This last picture is of the auxiliary fuse box and what I have so far.  Not sure if this is necessary but may help you guys understand my setup.

 

So like I said above, my questions are (keep in mind this is a 97+ truck)

- Is it fine running 1 fuse to control the switch and the lights

- Am I safe to assume an aftermarket rocker draws less than 1A

- Am I safe to assume the factory rear defrost switch draws less than 1A

- Any other input on this wiring is greatly appreciated!

 

[Jeep Driver]

Just run the switch to ground, no need for power to the switch at all. 

[Ωhm]

Why is that switch in drawing 1 connected to ground. That scares me. But like Jeep Driver said, use that switch to control the grounding side of your relay and just run power to both 85 and 30.

[Jeep Driver]

Why is that switch in drawing 1 connected to ground. That scares me. But like Jeep Drive said, use that switch to control the grounding side of your relay and just run power to both 85 and 30.

Illuminated switch would be the only reason. 

[Dzimm]

Sorry I forgot to mention it, yes both switches are illuminated. I used the diagram that came with the Aftermarket switch as reference. I did see some diagrams online that used the ground side but I figured the diagram with the switch was the correct one to use. Knowing that it's an illuminated switch, it's okay that the switch is powered and grounded correct? Sorry I'm not super knowledgeable using relays.

[Jeep Driver]

My relays are at the battery. 

 

You can choose any hot off the fuse block to illuminate your switch. 

 

Upper right of fuse block you will find a philips screw, my ground is mounted there........so...........

Hot to illuminate and ground at the fuse block to the switch........then........

 

 

The only wire you got to run per relay is one ground per relay from switch to 85 or 86 at the relay..........this........

 

Eliminates you from running any hot wires through the firewall. 

 

[Dzimm]

So if I am understanding this correctly I should run power to 30 and 85. Run 86 to switch+ and switch- to ground? Basically switch the ground wire out of 86 instead of creating a whole separate circuit for the switch. What would I do with the switch signal wire then?

[A-man930]

The original diagrams you've drawn up will likely be your best choice for the switches you have; the aftermarket one probably has an LED as the backlight and therefore probably won't light up if you try and use it on the ground side as some have suggested.  Following the switch manufacturer's advice is probably the best choice here (although for the record, I too try to switch the ground side of circuits where possible to avoid hot wires running all over the place).

 

 

- Is it fine running 1 fuse to control the switch and the lights

In my opinion it's ideal to fuse them separately, but it is common to do this.  

 

 

- Am I safe to assume an aftermarket rocker draws less than 1A

- Am I safe to assume the factory rear defrost switch draws less than 1A

Watch your terminology here; good switches draw nothing.  The relay's coil between 85 & 86 should be the only "draw" in the switched circuit and yes, at 60-120Ω at ~14v it'll be less than 1a of current.  

 

 

It all looks good, go for it!

[Dzimm]

The original diagrams you've drawn up will likely be your best choice for the switches you have; the aftermarket one probably has an LED as the backlight and therefore probably won't light up if you try and use it on the ground side as some have suggested. Following the switch manufacturer's advice is probably the best choice here (although for the record, I too try to switch the ground side of circuits where possible to avoid hot wires running all over the place).

 

 

 

- Is it fine running 1 fuse to control the switch and the lights

In my opinion it's ideal to fuse them separately, but it is common to do this.

 

- Am I safe to assume an aftermarket rocker draws less than 1A

- Am I safe to assume the factory rear defrost switch draws less than 1A

Watch your terminology here; good switches draw nothing. The relay's coil between 85 & 86 should be the only "draw" in the switched circuit and yes, at 60-120Ω at ~14v it'll be less than 1a of current.

 

 

It all looks good, go for it!

Ok thanks for the clarification. It makes sense to run the switch on the ground side and I will definitely do it that way if it's not illuminated.

[HOrnbrod]

The original diagrams you've drawn up will likely be your best choice for the switches you have; the aftermarket one probably has an LED as the backlight and therefore probably won't light up if you try and use it on the ground side as some have suggested.  Following the switch manufacturer's advice is probably the best choice here (although for the record, I too try to switch the ground side of circuits where possible to avoid hot wires running all over the place).

True, the "Power On" LED won't work if you are only switching ground. This includes the factory dash toggles.

 

Spot on switching the ground side of a circuit to control devices if you have a choice. A big difference between Renix and HO factory wiring is that the Chrysler system uses ground switching almost exclusively while the Renix system normally switches the hot lead for device control. Probably because the French electrical engineers who designed the Renix "system" were trained on positive grounded automotive electrical systems like Renaults, Citroens, Simcas, Peugeot, etc etc.   :shake:

[Ωhm]

By using one 10 amp fuse, all wiring size must be gauged to carry 10 amps or better, except from relay pin 86 to ground. And yes, your switch could see 10 amps with a short to ground between the switch and relay pin 85.

[Dzimm]

By using one 10 amp fuse, all wiring size must be gauged to carry 10 amps or better, except from relay pin 86 to ground. And yes, your switch could see 10 amps with a short to ground between the switch and relay pin 85.

Yeah I made sure all the wires are the appropriate sizes and I'm making sure my wiring is done properly to avoid a short. As long as the switch itself doesn't short it should be fine.