Aquired Dana 44 - What next?

[rokinn]

I picked up a D44 (3.07) from the JY from an 88 SWB 2wd MT w/280K on odometer.  $100 plus tax and $25 core charge.  I have a 90 LWB 2wd AX15 D35.  Both are I6.  The D44 is LSD.  Pinion seal is clearly leaking and ever the slightest of end play in the pinion shaft.  Backlash between pinion and ring gear is minimal and wear on both gears doesn't look too bad.  Spider gears to side gears are pretty loose with a lot of visible wear with wobble on the spider to cross shaft (aka trashed).  One axle tube seal is leaking.  I'm looking for some advise on a reasonable course to take with this axle.  Keeping in mind I'm hoping to keep this MJ build to a cost less than what it takes to put a kid through college.

 

Axle seals and bearings are a given.  Pinion seal also.  I'll have to have a look at the pinion bearings but I'm not terribly hopeful.  I'm considering the difference between rebuilding the carrier gears and trak loc or just going to a true trac.  I would also prefer a 3.55 gear ratio but like I said, somewhere south of a college education.

 

Thoughts please.  Also will I be able to reuse my drive shaft?  I know there is a difference in length but I've read where there is not enough to worry about. 

 

I've looked at disc brake upgrade but seems difficult for this axle.  I've also seen where one can swap in a later model brake booster and keep the same Master.

 

Thanks for opinions and corrections.

 

 

[HOrnbrod]

And, what are you driving now? Year, axle, ratio, 2WD/4WD, tranny, etc, etc, ?? 3.07 gears suck for just about everything except freeway driving.

[rokinn]

Guess I didn't make that clear enough. 90 lwb 2wd ax15 I6.

 

 

3.07

 

 

D35

[DirtyComanche]

If you're feeling play in the pinion either the yoke has backed off, the bearings are shot, it has ate a shim, the races have spun, or a combination thereof.

 

Tear it apart and asses fully.  If it's been used hard, or not had the oil changed, I would not be surprised if every bearing is shot.

 

IMHO I'd put a Truetrac in any day over the Trashlock.  The 3.73 and down version is inexplicably more expensive though.

 

Gears and a setup kit aren't that bad of a deal if everything is trashed anyways.  So you might as well go with a set of 4.10 gears so you can buy the cheaper Truetrac.

 

I used a hybrid of Isuzu Trooper calipers and Ford Explorer rotors for my disk conversion.  I do like the results, although it is something of an oddball setup.

 

I also converted to EB 9" wheel bearing retainers, mostly because mine were screwed and I wanted to be different.

[DirtyComanche]

I suppose if you defined your goals for the truck that would also be helpful.

[HOrnbrod]

Any lift plans and/or larger tires in your future? All I can at this point is tell you what I did after much thought when I replaced my original c-clip D35 with a used MJ D44 as you are doing. My truck is a 2WD street truck, and never sees offroad except from a distance. It has a small 3" lift, and larger 31" tires.

 

Gears: The D44 I bought had 3.55 gears. With the larger tires, I regeared to 4.10 using Yukon "thick" gears. This allowed me to retain my existing TracLok diff (which I like for street). 4.10's and 31" tires provide an ideal gear ratio for the street.

Carrier: An extra Honda Passport TL carrier came with my D44, so I used that after replacing the clutches.

Pinion Seal: Mine leaked also. I replaced both the seal and pinion yoke with a stronger "u-bolt" pinion and ditched the puny u-bolt straps.

Axle seals and bearings: Replaced.

Carrier gears: They were in good shape, it was a low mileage axle, so I reused them.

Pinion bearings: Replaced.

Disk brakes: I already had Teraflex/Explorer disk brakes on my D35 with low mileage, so bought new backing plates (different axle flange) and preload spacers, and reinstalled the existing calipers and rotors.

 

EDIT: Just read your plans, so with keeping the small tires, no lift, and mountain roads, I'd regear to 3.55 or 3.73 preferably. The D44 snout is about 1" longer than the D35, so your shaft would need to be shortened if you are not going with a small lift. You also might be able to change the slip yoke out for a shorter one depending on what's on it now. The MJ 2WD driveshafts have a rubber sheath that sometimes prevents shaft length changes because they can't be balanced after due to the decomposed rubber rattling around inside. I had to buy a new shaft because of this.

[rokinn]

No lifts or larger tires are planned or desired. Right now I'm looking for more secure traction on mountainous dirt semi-steep and bumpy or rutted roads but good highway

performance with possibly weight in the bed or towing of no more than 2500 lbs, preferably less. Right now I'm running 215/75/15 and like the way they handle. A gear ratio that

will perform those functions as well as mountain highways. I don't mind shifting down but the 3.07 reaches the point of being kind of gutless on mountain highways. A 4wd conversion may happen but most likely not, at least in the near term.