XJs4Ever Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 What the HELL am I doing wrong?? I have spent four DAYS, I repeat DAYS disconnecting, unbolting, removing my distributer, rotating the cam gear ONE tooth, tweeking the tang on the oil pump accordingly so the shaft aligns, reinserting the distributer, and still no fire no start. I bet I've been all the way around that gear four times by now. Now before anyone starts with the crank sensor etc jazz - the cam sensor, distributer, crank sensor AND coil are all brand new. Also rotor and cap. It ran fine, but was cutting out or backfiring out the front under a load so I thought I'd pull the distributer and rotate the gear one tooth, which I did and I marked its position. It ran but barely. I pulled it again and rotated the gear backwards two teeth, which SHOULD have put the timing one tooth in the opposite direction. It wouldn't even fire and has not ran since. A week now!!!! I have used a compression tester to find TDC on cyl 1, aligned the distributor with the rotor at cyl 1, but no joy. Dammit I can't even have a shop look at it without paying a fortune in a tow charge. Theres something I'm missing. WTF IZZIT?!! Anyone want to make a c-note the easy way? Come out to Parker and I'll supply that plus steak n ale. I'm done with the frustration of this clusterf#@& xjs4ever@gmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 What the HELL am I doing wrong?? I have spent four DAYS, I repeat DAYS disconnecting, unbolting, removing my distributer, rotating the cam gear ONE tooth, tweeking the tang on the oil pump accordingly so the shaft aligns, reinserting the distributer, and still no fire no start. I bet I've been all the way around that gear four times by now. Now before anyone starts with the crank sensor etc jazz - the cam sensor, distributer, crank sensor AND coil are all brand new. Also rotor and cap. It ran fine, but was cutting out or backfiring out the front under a load so I thought I'd pull the distributer and rotate the gear one tooth, which I did and I marked its position. It ran but barely. I pulled it again and rotated the gear backwards two teeth, which SHOULD have put the timing one tooth in the opposite direction. It wouldn't even fire and has not ran since. A week now!!!! I have used a compression tester to find TDC on cyl 1, aligned the distributor with the rotor at cyl 1, but no joy. Dammit I can't even have a shop look at it without paying a fortune in a tow charge. Theres something I'm missing. WTF IZZIT?!! Anyone want to make a c-note the easy way? Come out to Parker and I'll supply that plus steak n ale. I'm done with the frustration of this clusterf#@& xjs4ever@gmail.com Three things I can think of, first make sure you are setting your distributor to align with top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke. Second, check your timing chain and make sure it is not stretched and aligned properly. Third, I know the parts are new but they do come faulty sometimes. It may be worth it to go back and get a different one. Also are you getting spark, compression, and fuel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Did you rely on a Haynes manual to arrange the wires on the cap? It's wrong. I mean, it gets the firing order correct, but it's rotated by one position on the cap if you look at the screws. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/distributor-cap-rotor-78168/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 http://tomasz.korwel.net/2006/12/19/replacing-ignition-distributor-in-jeeps-40l-engines/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 What year is it? In case it is 90 or older, here's something for ya: http://cruiser54.com/?p=68 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypoid Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Theres something I'm missing. WTF IZZIT?!! Anyone want to make a c-note the easy way? Come out to Parker and I'll supply that plus steak n ale. I'm done with the frustration of this clusterf#@& xjs4ever@gmail.com Soooo, if I get it to start, and run??? The backfire through the intake indicates a need for a cranking compression test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambeezy Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 What year is it? In case it is 90 or older, here's something for ya: http://cruiser54.com/?p=68 Do I need to worry about re-indexing if I'm just replacing the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs? Was going to try and get to that this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 What year is it? In case it is 90 or older, here's something for ya: http://cruiser54.com/?p=68 Do I need to worry about re-indexing if I'm just replacing the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs? Was going to try and get to that this weekend $5 says you'll get the plug wires crossed. I know I've done it before. :rotfl2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 1-5-3-6-2-4. The trick is knowing where 1 is ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cerial Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 First check your fuel pressure at the rail and see if you have a regulator/pump out. Next test your injectors and the wiring to the injectors Test your crankshaft position sensor(by flywheel) and wiring Clean and tighten your ground strap(s) Test all the sensors/check wiring on the throttle body . You can be considerably off on the distributor and the thing will run. I think it is 20 degrees or such off the top of my head. The computer controls it using the crankshaft position sensor and cam sensor. If you are on the compression stroke, the distributor is aligned with the holes in the distributor plate, and all your sensors are working the thing will run. It might take several cranks for the computer to find the spot on the crankshaft position sensor on the flywheel but it will start and run if your sensors are good. If you have replaced the flywheel with a different one(someone will chime in here on what years are different)then the crankshaft position sensor has nothing or the wrong position to read and it will cause all kinds of headaches. What was the jeep doing before you began replacing parts? What year is the jeep/engine/and any modifications? Just cause parts are new does not make them good. I have bought new echlin parts at napa and had them be junk out of the box I have also had people give me the first part on the list thinking all 4.0's are the same. Unless you had trouble with your old parts try throwing them on and see if it corrects the issue. Check your part numbers if you still have the boxes or receipt first to see if you have the wrong part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambeezy Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 What year is it? In case it is 90 or older, here's something for ya: http://cruiser54.com/?p=68 Do I need to worry about re-indexing if I'm just replacing the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs? Was going to try and get to that this weekend $5 says you'll get the plug wires crossed. I know I've done it before. :rotfl2: Now I feel obligated to do it right and prove you wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 What year is it? In case it is 90 or older, here's something for ya: http://cruiser54.com/?p=68 Do I need to worry about re-indexing if I'm just replacing the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs? Was going to try and get to that this weekend $5 says you'll get the plug wires crossed. I know I've done it before. :rotfl2: Now I feel obligated to do it right and prove you wrong! When changing out plug wires I'm real anal about the routing and how they look. I'll screw around with them for hours trying to get them right and not look like a rat's nest. In a regulation factory set of wires each wire is a different length and some of the plug connectors are straight while others are 90*. If your wires look similar to the below it's easy; just pull one wire at a time and replace with a similarly configured wire. But usually there's some off-brand universal wire set on it and they look like crap. They should look something like this when you're done: FILE PICTURE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XJs4Ever Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Guys, please listen for a sec. Yes some good points have been raised but listen to this... It ran just fine before I moved it one tooth on the dist shaft. My fuel pressure is fine, the timing chain is fine, the crank sensor, cam sensor, distributer, rail, pump etc etc etc etc is all FINE. And anyone who can't hook up plug wires correctly shouldn't even be under a hood - period. I guess most of you don't know me but trust me I'm a lot more savvy with Jeeps than I'm being given credit for. Next step is try to find the mark on the crank pulley, bump the starter to rotate it up to TDC and then re-stab the distributer with the rotor at cyl 1. I just had eye surgery last week and can barely see but I need to get this damn thing running so I can drive to TX and back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Shouldn't the rotor tip be just past the #4 position prior to dropping in (stabbing) the distributor. When lowering the distributor and engaging the gear, rotor tip will rotate towards the #1 position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypoid Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Guys, please listen for a sec. Yes some good points have been raised but listen to this... It ran just fine before I moved it one tooth on the dist shaft. My fuel pressure is fine, the timing chain is fine, the crank sensor, cam sensor, distributer, rail, pump etc etc etc etc is all FINE. And anyone who can't hook up plug wires correctly shouldn't even be under a hood - period. I guess most of you don't know me but trust me I'm a lot more savvy with Jeeps than I'm being given credit for. Next step is try to find the mark on the crank pulley, bump the starter to rotate it up to TDC and then re-stab the distributer with the rotor at cyl 1. I just had eye surgery last week and can barely see but I need to get this damn thing running so I can drive to TX and back OK, but if your timing mark is not even close to 0* with #1 at TDC, your crank damper ring has slipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Guys, please listen for a sec. Yes some good points have been raised but listen to this... It ran just fine before I moved it one tooth on the dist shaft. My fuel pressure is fine, the timing chain is fine, the crank sensor, cam sensor, distributer, rail, pump etc etc etc etc is all FINE. And anyone who can't hook up plug wires correctly shouldn't even be under a hood - period. I guess most of you don't know me but trust me I'm a lot more savvy with Jeeps than I'm being given credit for. Next step is try to find the mark on the crank pulley, bump the starter to rotate it up to TDC and then re-stab the distributer with the rotor at cyl 1. I just had eye surgery last week and can barely see but I need to get this damn thing running so I can drive to TX and back http://cruiser54.com/?p=65 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 http://tomasz.korwel...ps-40l-engines/ ^^^ If you can't do this (and I know you can!) you're a moron Rick. :rotfl2: Ram a few brews first - it'll be cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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